72-PANTERA

UNDER YOUR DASH BEHIND THE "GEN" LIGHT THERE IS A DIODE/RESISTER AT THE LIGHT. TAKE THE TWO WIRES OFF AND ELIMINATE/BYPASS BOTH THE DIODE AND THE LIGHT AND CONNECT THE TWO WIRES TOGETHER!! YOUR LIGHT WILL NO LONGER WORK BUT ALL YOU NEED IS THE AMP GAUGE ANYWAY. IT WORKED FOR ME WHEN NOTHING ELSE DID, AFTER I INSTALLED HALLS' 100 AMP ALTERNATER. THIS SOLUTION IS ONLY FOR THE ALTERNATERS WITH THE BUILT-IN REGULATER!!! IF YOURS HAD THE EXTERNAL REGULATER YOU SHOULD PROBABLY GO BACK TO THE ORIGINAL WIRING, AS RUNNING AN ALTERNATER WITHOUT ANY REGULATER (PROVIDED YOU CAN GET IT TO TURN ON) WILL OVER CHARGE YOUR BATTERY, AND BOIL IT DRY. BECAUSE IT'S THE REGULATERS JOB TO SHUT OFF THE ALTERNATER ONCE THE BATTERY IS FULLY CHARGED. GOOD-LUCK, MARLIN.

[This message has been edited by MARLIN JACK (edited 05-09-2002).]

Like Marlin Jack, I upgraded to 100 amp alt. I used the external Regulator, and wired it just like the old one. No problems, except it doesn't seem to charge until you are over 1000 rpms. Make sure you have a good and clean ground. Alot of funny things happen with out it.

I've done this alternator swap, and what you need to do is remove the resistor that is soldered across the back of your tach. Just get under the dash with a pair of dikes and cut it off. The new alternator actually uses the blue/black wire coming off the tach for the "sense" circuit and the old resistor prevents a proper reading. The bad part is that by doing this you lose your "idiot" light on the tach. Let me know if you need any more info.