It looks like there are many ways to measure. The consensus on this forum is to measure a suspension component to the ground. However, all over the internet, it's to measure the top of the wheel well to ground, or maybe the center of the tire to top of the wheel well, so is this a personnel preference, or is it dictated by the car maker?

On the same subject, those using the Koni 30 series. How did you hold the threaded tube still while turning the nut. This seems like a very poor design as opposed to the threads being part of the shock body. Took me hours for a job that should take a few minutes!

Original Post

Koni doesn't make the threaded tubes. Some designs are better than others.  (aka tapered onto the snap ring)

You can wrap electrical tape around the shock, about 1 1/2 wraps or whatever, under the threaded tube, which will hold it tight.


Also, a 2.5 ID Torrington bearing is helpful.


Ray did you want to set your Pantera in the European ride height, or the raised US ride height?

The chassis should be level. If the car is sitting on a level surface you can determine if the chassis is level with a 2 to 3 foot long bubble level laid across the door sills.  A bit more precise way is to measure from the chassis to the ground at the four corners of the frame rails that run along the side of the car. They should all be equal in height.

If the difference between front and rear tire diameters is about 2 inches you can also set the chassis so that all 4 tires look equally centered in the fender openings.

The attached picture shows the suspension at the European ride height, without the weight of the driver or a passenger. Notice the lower control arms. When the driver and passenger sit in the car the rear lower control arms will be level with the ground (horizontal), and the tie rods "should" also be level.



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Thanks that helps. I'm going for level A arms. Now that I have that, I find I have too much negative camber. I will have to remove shims and hope that gets rid of it. Many variables to chase. Good thing I enjoy it.

As far as the shocks go, I found using a hose clamp around the lower body and tube held it good enough to turn the nut, kind of a Micky Mouse thing to have to do for high end shocks. A locking tab or pin could have been designed in for this. Com'on Koni! 

I also ordered a set of Ride Techs' from SACC. These are much better, and not a cobbled together solution. More like it's designed for the Pantera. Highly recommend.

I have had the (single, tiny little) allen lock screw on the Koni 30 springs back out, and the spring locking ring backs off.   Then you get a rattling noise that makes you worry, until you figure it out.

I agree that it seems like it could be done a little better....

See the silver little screw at the bottom of the shock in the picture there?1974 pantera 216


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For those who are trying to decide what ride height they want for their car.

Ford installed the spacers ... raised the car, diminished cornering grip … to prevent the chassis from bottoming out. Which occurred on high speed highway bumps or dips, on steep driveways, and even on parking lot speed bumps.

Bottoming-out is prevented in race cars and properly developed sports cars by increasing spring rates; not by raising the car's center of gravity and roll center.

6018 is set to ride at the original (European) ride height. It is equipped with springs that are equivalent to the springs of a GT5 or GT5-S. It rides great … and corners amazingly. The ride is not too stiff, it is amazingly compliant considering the spring rates. This ride height is highly recommended if you purchased your Pantera with expectations for high performance handling. If you purchased your Pantera to be a show car … well it looks better at the European ride height too. At the European ride height the tires will be centered within the fender opening, as long as the difference in tire diameter front to back is about 2 inches.

This is what centered looks like ↓

rear wheels


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