Air Cleaner

quote:

Originally posted by Kirk Evans:
With a very tall cover. This car had a Parker Funnel web intake which is quite tall.

Kirk, on the tall cover for the Funnel Web, is this all 'fab'd out of sheet metal or is this done in fiberglass?

Do you have a picture of the front of this one (against the glass)?

I like what you did with the screening but I'm still stuck in trying to find a source of the original silly Italian screening.

LOTS of great thought process here by everyone on an item with massive design restraints.

I have a huge oval K&N air filter that fills my back window. It has a logo pre-cleaner on it that can leave no doubt where the engine is located...lol...

Offset base is nice Mikael---and no worries about adding my threads. I want the input and ideas/products. Any idea when the offset Spectre was first available? My first offset build was many years ago so it is patterned and easy to duplicate but I will use the Spectre part now--can't beat the price--thank you for the heads up.

Nice tubing work Chris. It is certainly good to find fresh air. I have only made a few direct scoop ducting applications over the years and they have all been different designs for different induction systems. Your approach looks good and is far simpler.

Here is a picture of the last one I did years ago. It was difficult to build.

Kirk, my offset base build was in 2011.

It is all steel Doug. Here is a better shot of it. The entire front is open because you can not get it over the filter and carb. You can see through the cover which helps a bit backing up. Not sure why I did the top in that screen configuration---probably had something to do with the remaining left over screen size and I wanted to see to see the Hall air cleaner details.

The screen is available on line in steel and aluminum. The 2 inch cover has a fiberglass top, aluminum screening and a 14 gauge 1.5" wide steel perimeter which holds and screen better, holds the front and back edges straight, keeps the side curves correct and reinforces the hold down screws or fasteners on the sides so they do not decay the glass.

Great Mikael, thanks. Been out there for a while. I never understood why one of the MFGs did not make this years ago.

This one presented a different problem so I made side screens to keep the injection fully visible. The biggest problem was creating a support that would hold the weight. I made a cover for the original mount that served as a new support for the screens.

Here it is in the raw. I recently decided to do a story on this build form years ago. This car was such a mess, WOW! Great shape now though.

A build view of the raw left screen and mount that held the weight.

By the way Mikael, the float screw hole the bottom of the base and filter is a much simpler fix than building the offset bottom from scratch. Thank you again. I use to do SEMA and PRI every year but not so much with my family issues so all of the new stuff just slides right by.

I spent a bit of time myself on similar "projects" as all of you have.

I actually really love all of the solutions posted here. It's all food for thought.

I'm wondering how many times each of your solutions needed to be remade Kirk? Trying to get through finally without and screw-ups, then "Dam!Look at that! I can't leave it like that! Dam!"

To everyone, as the 'Southern Evangelist' MIGHT say, "Brothers and Sisters...I feel your pain".

I truly do.

OMG with the design and build on the fly approach. Most of the products I have built take at a minimum of 3 prototypes and in some cases up to 5.

Here is a good example with an air induction system.

First design had flat backs with ends that extend over the valve covers.

First mod shortened the length, put on the angle and added the radius on the inboard bottom which was later used to hold the center screen.

Third mod was to add some shape to the back of the box and recess the mount screws.

Last mod was to divot in the center screen mount area.

Starting the screen build.

The screen all framed up with the mounts made. The angle on top of the side covers is at the top of the deck surface. The screen is raised and the bottom the screen follows the deck surface also.

So this is one project seeing the "design as you go" approach.

Mozart I am not---no writing down the music without mistakes, many mistakes.

A view from the deck.

This started as a small air cleaner that could fit the car and still offer enough flow. The reason behind this is once I was fortunate enough to roam a shop and sit in an office of the man who was a well known creative engine genius who helped design the Holley four barrel most of us run. During the hours of fantastic stories including flying 50 plus WW2 B-17 sorties, he started talking about how air enters a carb and with many hours of dyno testing, the simple velocity stack was best to correct the shape. He explained that you need at least 4 inches of height to help the air re-shape and enter the card correctly especially "at speed" in his words. He said the best working air cleaner was the large diameter open on top type---looked like a giant stack with a foam filter. He said it didn't do much to clean the air but was great for "shaping". He explained the best air cleaner to use was not practical because it would be 8" in DIA and a foot tall. Next best option is a 10 to 12 inch DIA with at least a 4 inch gap from the top of the carb. He gave me one of his velocity stacks along with a proto type dry sump pan from the 50s---one of the first ones he ever made.

Of course the only way to prove this is to, in his words "dyno the same engine 5 times minimum the velocity stack and the air cleaner back and forth and measure the HP-Torque drop---10 runs minimum to get a real comparison.

In my case gaining a 1 or 2 HP is not the issue so if any of the air cleaner talk input helps someone, I hope I did my part. Thank you all for the additional ideas and support.

through the mirror. No visual restriction.