Alternator

You could have yours rebuilt.

Some have switched over to the one-wire GM alternator.

I do know that Pantera-Electronics offers it with a conversion kit on their web site.

Probably other vendors do as well.

I had a Honda AN alternator converted to 1 wire. I ran it on a drag car. Small light, effient. Bill 1362

I converted to the GM 12SI 96amp altnernator. This is a 3 wire so the dash light still works. You'll need to remove the voltage reglator and connect some of the wires together, correctly of course, and add in a diod. One wire needs to be moved to the starter solenoid for voltage reference. But in the end it works great. Jon Haas, Pantera Electronics, is very helpful. I actually bought a replacement GM winring pigtail at my local auto parts store and replacement crimp connectors that fit in it. Installed them on my factory wiring for what now looks like a factory install. Very clean!

Steve

Diod identified by the black Sharpie line on the spade connector.




Yellow wire moved to the battery side of the starter solenoid for voltage reference.


This is before I found the factory pigtail.

I like the Powermaster 140 amp, one wire unit. It can provide full voltage when all the fans, and lights are running. Especially important for a fuel injected car.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-8-57141

For those Pantera owners who have switched to one-wire alternators and no longer have a functioning "GEN" warning light; here's an easy way to make it work again: http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=LS%2D11

I've been looking into this once too.

Lessons learned so far:
Many of those offering so called lightweight alternators, don't even mention the (rotor) weight, or don't give it when asked for. Then I'm talking about offered so called race alternators, or 12v aviation alternators.

Those that are indeed light (within the 2,5 to 3Kg range), do cost quite a bit

Alternator from mine - which I assume is still the stock one - does weigh 4,58Kg.

One thing to reckon with, is that race alternators often have a different power output - in terms of output to rpm - as meant for use with high rpm engines, that do run mostly at high rpm's.

That's when the aviation alternators become interesting, as they are build for low rpm engines, and thus often do deliver more power when compared to a race alternator in the lower rpm range - sub 8.000rpm. A 100A race alternator might thus even deliver less power, then the stock 65A within the rpm range our engines are running... You should ask for output diagrams.

I went with a Tuff Stuff 100 amp 1st Generation alternator in 2003. It hasn't let me down and is plug-and-play.

http://www.tuffstuffperformanc.../mode=cat/cat279.htm

KId, after extensive checking, I found all alts except the low amp super-minis sourced from golf carts have the same length armatures as stock but variable OD cases. Some have clock-able rear cases to clear the big 12V power connection and the cylinder head. I used a semi-mini alt from a Geo Metro/Suzuki Samarai. As-rebuilt for NAPA auto Parts in the U.S, it's 2" smaller OD than stock, 3 lbs lighter than a stock 61 amp but puts out 75 amps max, and is a 3-wire. It can be shimmed to mount securely in a stock Pantera alt/AC bracket & line up a vee belt. These alts (and others) come with a serpentine drive pulley but your stock pulley fits the armature shaft. Different from serpentine-drive waterpumps, alts can drive in either direction with no efficiency loss.

That is indeed the way I was thinking to go. Nothing easier than something you can find in about every shop selling or rebuilding alternators. And since there are a couple of those around here, one day I'll take mine as an example, and a scale with me, and see myself what type of alternator offers for me the best combination of output, size, weight, and cost.

Have to spend some time too on calculating how much of an output I really need.

When I was looking for an alternator, Powermaster told me that although many alternators put out more ultimate amperage, the GM CS130D puts out more than any others at idle and very low RPMs. It's available with either a one wire or a three wire voltage regulator.

Thanks for the input.

I'm not running the A/C and no other additional high amp consuming accessories, so I assume I should be good with the original about 60-65 amp.

I looked at this lightweight alternator from Brice motorsports Brice. It's about 5 Pound lighter than original (it weighs 3 kg), looks like it's easily adaptable to the std ford mounts and has wiring for generator light and ignition swithed 12V supply. At my engine idle of approx 1200 rpm and a 3:1 crank/alt.rotor pulley ratio (3600 rpm rotor speed) I should have 50+ amp at idle and about 65 amp at 2000 rpm and above.

It's about $200.