Any interest in coolant tanks or fuel tanks??...

Nice job on those tanks!

Those are pretty sweet.

Im not in the market (mine are done), but I’m impressed.

As a suggestion...  he could add a bead around the two main ports on the swirl tank to ensure the hoses stay on.

A bead roller would be best, but I’m not sure it would work on that heavy gauge aluminum tube.

Not criticizing - it’s beautiful work!

Rocky

I don't need a gas tank yet...but those coolant tanks are tempting and I would think there is a market for them, considering the amount of times they come up on here as a topic.

Yes we thought about the beading and actually he was going to do it on these tanks both for the hoses and a no slip bead for mounting the tanks.  I was supposed to mock it up and bring them back but I stopped by there, they were sitting there done, so I snatched them and now I have my car back!...lol...

He also noted that instead of tigging in the male AN we should tig in a threaded bung so the port is damage serviceable, and we may clock the vent ports differently. These are all REV 01 items...

I wish I had a picture of my boat tank man, all SS tigged and baffled inside.  Love it...

So, chime in, don't be shy... Lay it on me.  What revisions do you guys see?

Stay tuned you guys...

Reference water inlets and outlets:

When we built water tanks for our race cars we would start with heavy wall aluminum tubing that had the correct ID and then machine the OD to the appropriate OD leaving a bead in place. This allowed us to leave a small ramp at the outside so the hose could slip on easier. The inside of the bead had basically a 90 degree cut to help retain the hose. We never popped a hose off or had leaks. Keep in mind that most common grades of aluminum oxidize (corrode) easily.

Great tech... Thank you Mike!

These tanks are 1/4" wall so they won't be going anywhere for a while...lol...

BTW, Nice work. Welding bungs instead of male AN fittings is a good idea. AN fittings and hose ends are very durable as long as they are kept clean and lightly lubed when assembled. Bungs might be good so users have choices to which type of fittings they can use.

Thanks Mike, he has some hours under the hood. 

This is a rough set for me real quick.  We are looking at it and may do a run of ten sets.  The NPT bungs will let guys put 45's or whatever they like.  On my rough set they are fixed -6 so I have sweeping bends in alum hard line.  It could be tightened up and routed to suit with a variety of line material with just the NPT.  Options for everyone's car....

When I modified my coolant tanks, I installed (4) bungs in the header tank.
The two additional fittings are used for bleed lines attached to the rear of each cylinder head.

Also, I put the return line to the water pump in the bottom of the tank, so the
tank could be 'clocked' in any orientation without affecting the location of this fitting.

Mike

Yeah, nice...

PLT, on the subject of fuel tanks:

Since you've got a spare gas tank on hand, can you measure the diameter of the hole for the fuel gauge sending unit?
I'm investigating some aftermarket sending units, and would like to verify that they would fit into that hole.

I'd rather not remove my sending unit at the moment, since we still have a few more driving days here in New England...

Another design to consider is to use spun aluminum tank heads (ends) or machined heads. Would be practical if you built a quantity. I don't remember where we sourced the spun aluminum heads.

http://www.boydwelding.com/  for some parts and good ideas.

@mp, I would also compare the bolt patterns.  When I got Hall's stainless tank, as I recall neither my former "stock" sending unit nor the universal sending unit I was converting to fit the Hall tank, I had a friend helping who is highly skilled in welding, fluid mechanics, etc. who got me squared away.  Also with the bottom drain which the Hall tank drain did not match what I had researched in advance to be the stock plug size for my year.  But my first P-car having been a very early pushbutton, mismatches never surprise me.  FWIW.

http://www.boydwelding.com/  for some parts and good ideas.

Mike,  I just ordered some bungs from them this morning....lol..  They are a few miles away from me...

Nice work on the aluminum coolant tanks.   Nice work on yours as well Mike P.  

What type of material are you and your friend thinking about building the gas tanks in?

What type of material are you and your friend thinking about building the gas tanks in?

I ASSume SS... 

@mpaschetto posted:

I'm investigating some aftermarket sending units, and would like to verify that they would fit into that hole.

Wilkinson has had a run of reproduction fuel senders made, also a Fiat X/19 fuel sender works, but at this point probably rarer than the Pantera one! If you do a PI site search you'll likely find some references to aftermarket units, I know some folks have done it.

@joules posted:

Wilkinson has had a run of reproduction fuel senders made, also a Fiat X/19 fuel sender works, but at this point probably rarer than the Pantera one! If you do a PI site search you'll likely find some references to aftermarket units, I know some folks have done it.

Thanks Joules, I'll check it out...

Larry Stock's PPC in Carson City has about 20 fuel tank senders in stock last time I was there. Note there are two varieties but only the later one is available and is a true bolt-in for all tears of Panteras. This is the one with the built-in fuel-out line- in stock size only, so for big-power engines, recommend replacing the 5/16"OD line with a 3/8"OD.

Good job on the water tanks- I did the same offset mounting on mine- it promotes swirling and thus separates air. But why not include a pressure cap on the fill/swirl tank?