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Ball joint / tie rod boot issue

jimlahjimlahMember
Looking for some help with ball joint boots. I pulled the front ball joints and I am in the process of replacing the torn boots with new Energy Suspension boots. I'm using the part numbers that have been discussed on this forum many times. I'm having an issue with the retaining split rings. I can get them on, but they slide off the end of the boot and into the slot whenever the ball joint is moved, leaving the boot unattached from the joint. Has anyone had an issue like this? Are there any other ways of retaining the boots that works better? I tried with the ball joints on the car and off, is it more likely to stay on one way or another?

Second issue is getting the tie rods ends off to replace their boots. I have tried a pickle fork designed for a tie rod, but no luck. Any other ways to get these 40 year old tie rods off?

Thanks.
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R robbieMember
On the tie rods .. I went to Harbor Freight and for about $12 .. bought this tool that has two jaws that act like a clothes pin. The upper jaw has a fork in it like your pickle fork. The lower jaw is a single arm and there is a big bolt that forces the jaws together. The upper jaw goes where your pickle fork goes and the lower jaw goes against the bottom of the threaded end of the tie rod. As you tighten the bolt the jaws come together and the tie rod is forced out of the steering arm. Be sure to keep a nut loosened on the threaded portion or secure the tie rod to something along with some cushioning because when that thing breaks loose it really flies apart .. it's scary. The beauty of this is that you are not beating on it .. it is nice and slow .. no impact.
jimlahjimlahMember
As I thought about it last night, perhaps these new boots don't need attached at all. Once installed they are jammed between the control arm (if that's what its called) and the base of the ball joint. The poly is much thicker and stiffer than the old rubber ones, so they should keep their shape and contain the grease without a retaining ring. Any thoughts on this?

I will look into the better separator tools.
panteradougpanteradougMember
quote:
Originally posted by Jimlah:
Looking for some help with ball joint boots. I pulled the front ball joints and I am in the process of replacing the torn boots with new Energy Suspension boots. I'm using the part numbers that have been discussed on this forum many times. I'm having an issue with the retaining split rings. I can get them on, but they slide off the end of the boot and into the slot whenever the ball joint is moved, leaving the boot unattached from the joint. Has anyone had an issue like this? Are there any other ways of retaining the boots that works better? I tried with the ball joints on the car and off, is it more likely to stay on one way or another?

Second issue is getting the tie rods ends off to replace their boots. I have tried a pickle fork designed for a tie rod, but no luck. Any other ways to get these 40 year old tie rods off?

Thanks.


I just want to point out that you can replace the original boots now. They were not available for a long time without buying the entire joint.

Now the are.

If you use the original dealers joint separation tool, you are much less likely to tear the original boot.

...just in case you wanted to know? Smiler
bosswrenchbosswrenchMember
FWIW, the best ball joint & tie rod separator I've ever used is an air-hammer! Untighten the nut most of the way, put a blunt-end air hammer anvil against the pounding-boss on steering arm or upright, and pull the trigger. Guaranteed, you will not be able to get your finger off the trigger fast enough before the parts magically separate. No strain, no problem. Yes- you will need an air compressor or a full air tank.

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