Skip to main content

Closed16 replies

Basic adjustable shock help

noquarternoquarterMember
I never had adjustable shocks before, so forgive the ignorance. The problem is that I bought SC1002s for the Pantera from Precision more than a year ago, and have never liked them, they’re way too soft. I’ll try to keep the story short, I’ve gotten new springs, and the shocks themselves have been sent across the Atlantic twice. They’re better now, when I got them first time they felt like my old Buick Riviera. And I actually had convinced myself that since I had harder springs than most on this forum and the shocks revalved and put on ”6” which I’m told is max hardness, that this was as good as it could get. So I told Precision it was OK...

But I’m not happy driving it. And the other day a friend drove behind me and afterwards said: ”What’s wrong with your car, it bounces all over”. So it's not as it should be. The original shocks were much better except one had a clonck sound.

So what’s wrong? Have I just bought too cheap inferior shocks? Is ”6” not the right setting, I tried ”3”, no difference I could feel. And how does that system work, there’s no stop between ”1” and ”6”, so can it be turned too far in or out?

I’m considering buying original shocks from Wilkinson, but on the other hand, shouldn’t what I have be able to give me a better/firmer ride than I have?
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

J janneMember
Hi Mikael.I have also bought shocks from Precision. I bought the two way adjustable ones,adjusted them to middle position and noted the same thing that the car were bouncing all over the place. I now have the return damping on 11 wich is maximum and it works okey. So to me it sounds like you dont have enough return damping.

Brgds

Janne
lf-tp2511lf-tp2511Member
quote:
I now have the return damping on 11 which is maximum and it works okay.

Works only okay? And cranked all the way to maximum?

Seems like shocks sold by a Pantera vendor, intended for a Pantera, should give results better than just 'okay'.

Something like "GREAT!" seems more reasonable.

I have Quella's gas charged steel Konis. springs are 450/550 F/R. No bouncey up and down, stiff and firm but not harsh. Highly recommended.

Larry
does200does200Member
My red 5S has the Byar boys double adjustable (or Alden, something like that name). They work fine for me, and just adjusted them slightly firmer a few months ago although I would have to check the numbers on the dials. They were bought years ago for the car, so I assume they are the same double adjustable, but maybe not. I would give them a call, they are always good with me straightening things out if something doesn't work well.
bosswrenchbosswrenchMember
I agree with Mike. Stock springs were 300 front and 350 rear. A few of the race-oriented vendors in the U.S. sell very stiff springs along with their adjustable shocks. Others, more aligned with street performance, sell springs closer to stock but of higher quality. Your stock springs have likely deteriorated since 1972... Unless you're actively racing, or drive only on very smooth streets, such high spring strength will result in a noisier, more uncomfortable ride and likely, a deterioration in handling. Tires get no traction unless they're in contact with the road, and over-stiff springs will cause tire bouncing unless the damping is set very stiff as well.
bosswrenchbosswrenchMember
FWIW, I also run the same Koni 30-series shocks on our '72 L, and I really like them. They are not double-adjustable for damping, only single but once set (on non-race cars), you'll likely never touch them again. As Koni's web site mentions, mine do run inverted, to subtract a little extra unsprung weight from the wheel assemblies. Buy yourself a pin-spanner to keep from gouging out the hole in the aluminum height-adjusting rings when you change corner weights.
mblotusmblotusMember
I bought Dennis Quellas Koni shock/spring combo for the street and am very happy. They have a nice firm feel but not too harsh. The car has been lowered about 1-2" and the rear lower A arms are parallel to the ground as they should be. Also, when driving on undulating or slightly bumpy pavement, it's clear that the tire contact patch is going into bump but returning back to the pavement quickly like my race cars did. Check them out, and Dennis is very good about sharing his knowledge.
Views: 265
Post

Membership Required

We're sorry. You must be signed in to continue. Sign In or Register
×
Are you sure you want to remove from your Block List?
×
Loading...
×
When you block a person, they can no longer invite you to a private message or post to your profile wall. Replies and comments they make will be collapsed/hidden by default. Finally, you'll never receive email notifications about content they create or likes they designate for your content.
Note: if you proceed, you will no longer be following .
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×