I run nothing but DuraSparks in my Fords!!! Had a 428 Fairlane, and the DS ran circles around the Pertronix in "feel" and other issues..... People ask about MSD..... I say don't do it..... But do they listen? Nope!
Steve
I think there is an acho in here ? LOL
I say the same the DS is 100% better and I ran the same 428CJ in a SS Comet and never even a Hickup ....but that was a FMS System with a 6A box and a rev limiter ..the 6A box was MSD painted blue by FMS. THE OTHER MAJOR THING WAS ITW AS NOT MOUNTED NEAR AND HOT SURFACE ...i mounted it on the dash board.
Do you have any source for the RED DS box ?
Another question ... I have 2 FMS Racing Distr with tach drive ... is a 302 distr the same as a 351W ?
Ron
Ron
I say the same the DS is 100% better and I ran the same 428CJ in a SS Comet and never even a Hickup ....but that was a FMS System with a 6A box and a rev limiter ..the 6A box was MSD painted blue by FMS. THE OTHER MAJOR THING WAS ITW AS NOT MOUNTED NEAR AND HOT SURFACE ...i mounted it on the dash board.
Do you have any source for the RED DS box ?
Another question ... I have 2 FMS Racing Distr with tach drive ... is a 302 distr the same as a 351W ?
Ron
Ron
Lowmerk,
A little confusing ... I have a 70 b2 thats is 100% original ..not restored yet... I need a few parts steel wheels and a set of original exhaist manifolds. My conversation here was simple ..did a B2 come in a Mangusta ..I aksed this because I had seen more then one where people mentioned them ... it seems the B2 was being developed when the mangusta was debuting and the B2 was being put to rest in 71 ... for the record they did make 1 71 B2 ... so lets just say they rane together in the stable.
Ron
A little confusing ... I have a 70 b2 thats is 100% original ..not restored yet... I need a few parts steel wheels and a set of original exhaist manifolds. My conversation here was simple ..did a B2 come in a Mangusta ..I aksed this because I had seen more then one where people mentioned them ... it seems the B2 was being developed when the mangusta was debuting and the B2 was being put to rest in 71 ... for the record they did make 1 71 B2 ... so lets just say they rane together in the stable.
Ron
I am running the Duraspark in the Pantera and a Petronix in my Shelby. I have found both to be very reliable.
I am an anti MSD person. I have found that MY replacement rate on them was alarming and was irrelevant to where they were located. They seem to have an alarm clock in them whereby they just shut themselves off, never to ignite again.
If you are a racer then that would effect you less since the nature of a race car is just to constantly be changing parts in the car and you likely wouldn't ever notice that the brain's only last about a year.
I am going to go to IR FI with the pantera and use a Haltec CPU. Haltec has given me a patch in diagram for the Ford TFS and when I get to it I will get the Duraspark patch from them also. THEN I will find out how adaptable the Duraspark is. Haltec keeps saying that it will work fine. I always get nervous at the "no problem" comments people make though.
As far as a Boss 302 in a 'goose I am guessing that the hassle is the accessories hook-ups in the car.
Personally I thik I would stay with the original 302 block, heads, dampener, etc and go to a 347 stroker with an aluminum flywheel. Race port the heads and mabe try the Weber IDF carbs in it. That would sure give everybody a heck of a'goose for sure.
I am an anti MSD person. I have found that MY replacement rate on them was alarming and was irrelevant to where they were located. They seem to have an alarm clock in them whereby they just shut themselves off, never to ignite again.
If you are a racer then that would effect you less since the nature of a race car is just to constantly be changing parts in the car and you likely wouldn't ever notice that the brain's only last about a year.
I am going to go to IR FI with the pantera and use a Haltec CPU. Haltec has given me a patch in diagram for the Ford TFS and when I get to it I will get the Duraspark patch from them also. THEN I will find out how adaptable the Duraspark is. Haltec keeps saying that it will work fine. I always get nervous at the "no problem" comments people make though.
As far as a Boss 302 in a 'goose I am guessing that the hassle is the accessories hook-ups in the car.
Personally I thik I would stay with the original 302 block, heads, dampener, etc and go to a 347 stroker with an aluminum flywheel. Race port the heads and mabe try the Weber IDF carbs in it. That would sure give everybody a heck of a'goose for sure.
Ron,
(Sorry, this got LONG...but I do that...)
I don't have any FMS gear at all. Like I said, I'm a true blue DuraSpark user, just because you can get parts out of just about any 70's station wagon or truck on the side of the road, and get your butt down the road. Diagnosis is simple.... screwdriver and a spare sparkplug.... (screwdriver to hit the distributor with!)
I've spent too much time under OGH's! (Other guy's hoods!) with MSD issues, whether its the same ol' "my tach doesn't work" or my car won't start.....all a MPITA! The MSD's won't run under 9V. They hate bad connections, either power or ground!!! If you run one, carry a 10ft jumper wire for trouble shooting....and a volt meter.
With a DuraSpark, if you have any voltage to it down to about 6V, you can push your car and it will fire!
I put one of the blue (strain relief) modules in my Goose and with a Motorsports mech. only advance dist. I set initial timing at about 26 degrees. (Yes you read that right!) During crank, the module retards the spark 10 degrees, so puts my cranking advance at about 16 degrees....factory spec for a Boss 2 timing setting! Pops off (if carb isn't dry) in 1-2 turns of the motor! NEVER used to do that on points.....crank and crank and crank.....
351W dist is taller due to taller deck height. Gears are also different diameter....I think. Not 100% on that one..... certainly for a 351C they are.
Didn't mean to sound ugly about the B2 thing....
It's just that the same rumors keep coming around and around about Boss's and Gooses.... and then you have the people that "claim" that their engine is a Boss.... Since you have a Boss Stang, you know the story.....
The B2 in a Goose is REALLY an ugly thing. PO's of my car put in a spare TA motor from a Fresno based 70 privateer car, street parts, not the "special" ones... MONSTER compression, o-ringed heads, early H-beams, zero balanced.... did some real boner stuff too...but that could have been the 3rd owner who decompressed it (was horrible to drive!) and rebuilt the jackshaft bracket in steel.
Original builders choked down this B2 which had beautifully ported heads, D1ZX roller conversions for the rockers, by putting 2V exhaust header flanges on the headers!!!! 4V flange/pipes would not fit without cutting the frame badly....ugh! So the car just would not get out of it's own way! (I'll try and find a pic' to post.)
Once I found this out, PLUS had prob's with the o-ring thing....I sold the entire top end to a racer from Mississippi, bought some Aussie 2V heads from PowerHeads in LA, dropped on a streetboss intake, and never looked back! Car now has great low end manners and revs until the valves float when the cam runs out at about 6500....(by design) I'm chicken about scattering jackshaft pulleys and parts..... they're spinning faster than the crank......and the pulleys are all cast iron.....steel would be better....! Besides, 6500 in 5th is probably above 140 or so...and the front of a Goose gets REAL lite above 135ish.....don't really need to go there in stock form....
Now, there is another guy here that bought a converted car to B2 power. You're gonna hate this...... In addition to cutting the frame and widening it for proper exhaust clearance (very NICE job I must say....) instead of building headers.....sit down.... they hacked up the factory B2 manifolds and welded them back together to direct the exhaust more back, then down......! Told you you'd hate it!
These are the only two cars that I know of where this transplant has taken place. Others may have Boss2 bottom ends, but they are running regular heads so that you don't run into the restricted exhaust issue.
I finally get to dyno the car tomorrow (club event) and now that I have my rev limiter fixed (original stupid wrong valve springs installed (Bad PowerHeads, no biscuit!)) I can see what it will do.
After this, teh B2 motor is slated to come out for a roller 331" '92 based 5.0 block, with Y303 AL heads and a modified Performer 289 intake, so that I can (hopefully!) run a stock air cleaner. They took cool air from the rear of the car for a reason!!!! B2 then will get new rings, maybe new slugs to put the compression back up.....and get stuffed into a resto rod'd 1970 XR7...fully loaded, scheduled for a factory type power sunroof, TKO 5spd,rear discs, and a Sublime Green paint job throughout the entire car. No black engine compartment.....ack! In time......!
Doug,
Your Duraspark should work well with the aftermarket FI. I believe that I have heard of this being done on many fronts already.
The Boss does not fit well in a Goose. It is too tall, PO's hacked up my rear engine shields...! Requires drop down air cleaner, open element...perhaps you saw my lament about my stupid air cleaner element adventures this year in Vegas..... And then there's the header thing I mentioned above....customizing the jackshaft.... That's why I'm doing the 331. 347 is getting into that territory where you exceed the design of the chassis "as built". You seriously need to revisit all of the bulkhead and suspension gussets, and reinforce them.... weeeeenie, in my books. I just enjoy driving the car (briskly!) with the old lady. Don't need a lot of power, as speed limit is designed into the car... Just a good running reliable set of wheels is all I want....that looks GREAT!
Webers? Nah. Good looks, but unless you run the right cam, just asking for an explosion! Goose on ebay now with Webers, well sorted by PO's. only $125K! Say what!?
Ciao all! Have a great weekend!!!
Steve
(Sorry, this got LONG...but I do that...)
I don't have any FMS gear at all. Like I said, I'm a true blue DuraSpark user, just because you can get parts out of just about any 70's station wagon or truck on the side of the road, and get your butt down the road. Diagnosis is simple.... screwdriver and a spare sparkplug.... (screwdriver to hit the distributor with!)
I've spent too much time under OGH's! (Other guy's hoods!) with MSD issues, whether its the same ol' "my tach doesn't work" or my car won't start.....all a MPITA! The MSD's won't run under 9V. They hate bad connections, either power or ground!!! If you run one, carry a 10ft jumper wire for trouble shooting....and a volt meter.
With a DuraSpark, if you have any voltage to it down to about 6V, you can push your car and it will fire!
I put one of the blue (strain relief) modules in my Goose and with a Motorsports mech. only advance dist. I set initial timing at about 26 degrees. (Yes you read that right!) During crank, the module retards the spark 10 degrees, so puts my cranking advance at about 16 degrees....factory spec for a Boss 2 timing setting! Pops off (if carb isn't dry) in 1-2 turns of the motor! NEVER used to do that on points.....crank and crank and crank.....
351W dist is taller due to taller deck height. Gears are also different diameter....I think. Not 100% on that one..... certainly for a 351C they are.
Didn't mean to sound ugly about the B2 thing....
It's just that the same rumors keep coming around and around about Boss's and Gooses.... and then you have the people that "claim" that their engine is a Boss.... Since you have a Boss Stang, you know the story.....The B2 in a Goose is REALLY an ugly thing. PO's of my car put in a spare TA motor from a Fresno based 70 privateer car, street parts, not the "special" ones... MONSTER compression, o-ringed heads, early H-beams, zero balanced.... did some real boner stuff too...but that could have been the 3rd owner who decompressed it (was horrible to drive!) and rebuilt the jackshaft bracket in steel.
Original builders choked down this B2 which had beautifully ported heads, D1ZX roller conversions for the rockers, by putting 2V exhaust header flanges on the headers!!!! 4V flange/pipes would not fit without cutting the frame badly....ugh! So the car just would not get out of it's own way! (I'll try and find a pic' to post.)
Once I found this out, PLUS had prob's with the o-ring thing....I sold the entire top end to a racer from Mississippi, bought some Aussie 2V heads from PowerHeads in LA, dropped on a streetboss intake, and never looked back! Car now has great low end manners and revs until the valves float when the cam runs out at about 6500....(by design) I'm chicken about scattering jackshaft pulleys and parts..... they're spinning faster than the crank......and the pulleys are all cast iron.....steel would be better....!
Besides, 6500 in 5th is probably above 140 or so...and the front of a Goose gets REAL lite above 135ish.....don't really need to go there in stock form....Now, there is another guy here that bought a converted car to B2 power. You're gonna hate this...... In addition to cutting the frame and widening it for proper exhaust clearance (very NICE job I must say....) instead of building headers.....sit down.... they hacked up the factory B2 manifolds and welded them back together to direct the exhaust more back, then down......! Told you you'd hate it!
These are the only two cars that I know of where this transplant has taken place. Others may have Boss2 bottom ends, but they are running regular heads so that you don't run into the restricted exhaust issue.
I finally get to dyno the car tomorrow (club event) and now that I have my rev limiter fixed (original stupid wrong valve springs installed (Bad PowerHeads, no biscuit!)) I can see what it will do.
After this, teh B2 motor is slated to come out for a roller 331" '92 based 5.0 block, with Y303 AL heads and a modified Performer 289 intake, so that I can (hopefully!) run a stock air cleaner. They took cool air from the rear of the car for a reason!!!! B2 then will get new rings, maybe new slugs to put the compression back up.....and get stuffed into a resto rod'd 1970 XR7...fully loaded, scheduled for a factory type power sunroof, TKO 5spd,rear discs, and a Sublime Green paint job throughout the entire car. No black engine compartment.....ack! In time......!
Doug,
Your Duraspark should work well with the aftermarket FI. I believe that I have heard of this being done on many fronts already.
The Boss does not fit well in a Goose. It is too tall, PO's hacked up my rear engine shields...! Requires drop down air cleaner, open element...perhaps you saw my lament about my stupid air cleaner element adventures this year in Vegas..... And then there's the header thing I mentioned above....customizing the jackshaft.... That's why I'm doing the 331. 347 is getting into that territory where you exceed the design of the chassis "as built". You seriously need to revisit all of the bulkhead and suspension gussets, and reinforce them.... weeeeenie, in my books. I just enjoy driving the car (briskly!) with the old lady. Don't need a lot of power, as speed limit is designed into the car... Just a good running reliable set of wheels is all I want....that looks GREAT!
Webers? Nah. Good looks, but unless you run the right cam, just asking for an explosion! Goose on ebay now with Webers, well sorted by PO's. only $125K! Say what!?
Ciao all! Have a great weekend!!!
Steve
Wanst there a Duraspark with a small cap ? I ahd one but read that the small cap the spark could jump from post to psot inside the cap so they went ot a large cap ..I could have sworn I used a small cap on the race car and never had a problem ?
Ron
Ron
Ron,
You are right about the spark jumping and the larger cap! However, if you keep your gaps a tad more close, you can indeed run the small cap! Probably a lot of guys doing it, and "looking" more stock!
Steve
You are right about the spark jumping and the larger cap! However, if you keep your gaps a tad more close, you can indeed run the small cap! Probably a lot of guys doing it, and "looking" more stock!
Steve
FWIW, Steve, before you joined Nor-Cal, ex-member Rob Casey had a yellow '69 'Goose with a set of unique headers that looked like boat-zoomies; they came up and around parallel to the ground, nearly to the engine covers, above the a-arms then out thru holes in the rear screen. Can't remember if it was a Boss or not but the system worked better than it sounds here..... Rob's now living in Arizona somewhere. Had a matching yellow Pantera, too.