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Larry Stock's 'Pantera Part Connection' sells fully rebuilt stock Girling calipers on an exchange basis. Some bleeder valves have different thread sizes. Porsche for example are around 7/16" dia (fine thread and of course metric). I believe Dorman stocks them at some NAPA stores Take one of yours with you & compare threads- a counterman will help you.

ALWAYS use a 6-point socket wrench to remove stuck bleeder valves. Which happens when brake or clutch fluid is not changed yearly, as it should be. The rear calipers seem more prone to get stuck  Open end wrenches very often spread under pressure and round off the valve's soft hex head. Expect to break off some frozen bleeders and/or bend/break some little open end wrenches. The price of 'deferred maintenance'. 

If you're so poor that you don't own such a socket, put the correct little open end wrench on the valve, then clamp a Vice-Grip pliers across the wrench's open ends to keep the wrench from spreading. Use both the wrench handle PLUS the pliers to unloosen it. Be very careful drilling out broken threads as the valve seals off against a conical bottom of the threaded hole and it's taper is different than your drill end. Also, once the valve is out, look thru it: I've had valves that were so varnished up that I needed to DRILL them out to reuse them!

Stahlbus is by far too expensive 25€ each. Think they are ment for motor cycles and you have advantage of the bleeding mechanism they provide, no need in a car as you bleed from the front per adapter and pressurized reservoir....

More important as you  mention the metrics for the bleedes. DO USE Gierling Front?

What in the back the Peugeot type one combined pistion?


Unfortunately, our Pantera is not a good example for comparisons. It  uses  Wilwood Superlite 2 aluminum 4-piston fronts and ATE aluminum 2-piston rears ('70 Porsche 911 S fronts, adapted to the Pantera's rear uprights).  All pads are Porterfield. All four rotors are adapted 11.5" OD Porsche 911 (pre-1980). Those rotors are the same OD & thickness as Pantera but ventillated. Our power booster is one of Don Byers' fine adapted GM assemblies with dual vacuum diaphragms & dual OD master cylinder bores. Our e-brakes are Wilwood mechanical aluminum go-kart brakes adapted to stock Pantera cables & uprights. Pantera East later made some similar e-brakes using adapted Wiwoods..

All the hoses are genuine Aeroquip dash-3 braided stainless reinforced teflon. I run full boosted power to the front brakes with a manually adjusted propor-tioning valve in the rear circuit (reverse of factory plumbing), discarding the shuttle valve & the stock prop valve. With 245-50x15" front tires & 295-50x15" rears on 8" & 10" Campys, either Judy (5'2" & 120 lbs) or I can instantly lock the brakes. So every single part of our brake system has been changed over our 42 yrs of ownership. OK- how does everything work, you ask?  PDG, I'd say.

Little story: the OEM master cylinder blew a seal and.lost function of the OEM Girling front calipers in the Sierras, on the way to a  'Vegas Fun Rally.  Judy was driving and chose not to mention this until we arrived at the overnight stop. Thanks to a second cup of coffee after breakfast, we had been 15 minutes behind the rest of the Nor-Cal group, who were not lagging about waiting for us. Using only the  Porsche/ATE calipers in the rear, she caught the rest of the group in the twistys and sedately followed them to our stop outside of Yosemite. Only then did she mention 'a kind of long travel brake pedal....'.

A quick check at the motel showed the front calipers were completely inoperative. Didn't slow her down at all, and from the right seat I had noticed no problem with her driving. No parts around; it was my turn to drive the next day (we regularly traded off), so we finished up the Fun Rally still on only the rear brakes. Arriving home after our otherwise uneventful  550 mile tour, I mounted Wilwood front calipers and Byars' GM power ass'y to fix the front brakes.

The ATE calipers are still on the rear, although I had to make my own replacement ss pistons 20 or so years ago due to a leak. I guess now they're commercially available from Porsche shops. And other good replacement calipers are available, too. Just be sure you know exactly what you're doing! I've seen some frightening home brake adaptions, and I have no 'spare' friends!.

You can get metric blenders from Napa that work fine. I bought some last year. The hardest part was getting the old ones out. I will try and find the Napa part number for you after work. They were cheap had the proper thread and had more surface area for a wrench, being slightly longer than stock. They were discussed on here in a previous thread.

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