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quote:Originally posted by jack deryke:
Depends to an extent which circuit you plumbed it into- front or back. It'll work much better in the front lines, due to the pedal travel to actuate the rear calipers. And yes- the GM non-hydraulic brake switch is easily added under the dash, to actuate by pedal movement. You gotta build a bracket to mount it, but thats pretty simple. Stock wiring can be pulled back thru the firewall grommet so it reaches without splicing. The stock hydraulic switch routinely springs leaks under pressure and its a peculiar thread so this fix works fine.
quote:Originally posted by Dennis Gacutan:
I'm planning to use the non-hydraulic brake switch by making a bracket to hold the switch, but I'm a little nervous about trying to pull the stock wiring back thru the firewall grommet so it reaches the switch. Can I tell by the color of the wires that attach to the pressure switch which wires I can pull on? There appears to be 2 bundled sets of wires that go through the firewall. Is it the smaller bundle or the bigger bundle? After taking off the connectors does it take a lot of force to pull the wires through? Thanks.quote:Originally posted by jack deryke:
Depends to an extent which circuit you plumbed it into- front or back. It'll work much better in the front lines, due to the pedal travel to actuate the rear calipers. And yes- the GM non-hydraulic brake switch is easily added under the dash, to actuate by pedal movement. You gotta build a bracket to mount it, but thats pretty simple. Stock wiring can be pulled back thru the firewall grommet so it reaches without splicing. The stock hydraulic switch routinely springs leaks under pressure and its a peculiar thread so this fix works fine.
