How can I determine what cam I have? It is out of the car. I only see a few numbers stamped on it near each end.
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what are the numbers?
George,
On the back vertical surface (as installed) is the # 89570. Just in front of where the rear cam bearingwould be (on the horizontal surface)is the letter B on one side and #23 on the other. In the front just behind the front cam bearing is #1208. Do these numbers tell me anything?
On the back vertical surface (as installed) is the # 89570. Just in front of where the rear cam bearingwould be (on the horizontal surface)is the letter B on one side and #23 on the other. In the front just behind the front cam bearing is #1208. Do these numbers tell me anything?
They should be on the face sort of behind the timing gear ? No ?
Ron
Ron
We're looking for a number that is engraved or stamped into the cam. Numbers cast into the cam core don't tell us anything. A corporate logo would be nice, but too easy (i.e. FoMoCo). Normally the number is engraved into the front or butt ends of the cam.
I ran 89570 through several manufacturer web site searches and came up empty handed.
Used flat tappet cams should not be re-used in another block other than the one it was originally installed in. I'm assuming you're going to purchase a new block, so you'll need a new cam & lifters.
your friend on the DTBB
I ran 89570 through several manufacturer web site searches and came up empty handed.
Used flat tappet cams should not be re-used in another block other than the one it was originally installed in. I'm assuming you're going to purchase a new block, so you'll need a new cam & lifters.
your friend on the DTBB
89570 is stamped on the but end. It also looks like the letters CWC are cast in opposite the 1208 (even if that doesn't mean anything). Those seem to be the only type of identification on it.
As far as the engine goes... I'm sleeving one cylinder, but the head is questionable. The cast in valve guide surrounding the brass insert is cracked. My machinist said it could be put back together that way, but we'd both rather not. So, I'm looking for a head as indicated in my 'parts wanted' post.
As far as the engine goes... I'm sleeving one cylinder, but the head is questionable. The cast in valve guide surrounding the brass insert is cracked. My machinist said it could be put back together that way, but we'd both rather not. So, I'm looking for a head as indicated in my 'parts wanted' post.
Rebuild the heads with new manganese-bronze valve guides. You need to machine the old guide out. You will wind up with a .500" hole and press in the new guide with oil seal head and all. Ream them and install the valves. Why replace the head?
On the cam try California Performance Warehouse. Sounds like them.
On the cam try California Performance Warehouse. Sounds like them.
PanteraDoug, did you see the pics I posted in my "so how bad is it going to be" post?
Yes I saw them. The head with the broken valve is repairable.
If the seat is too beaten to clean up with a three angle then you can have a valve seat installed in it. The dings in the chamber don't really mean too much.
Mag the head and pressure test it. It probably is ok.
As far as the block goes, it could be sleeved. The sleeved blocks are actually stronger then the non sleeved ones.
Of course you should consider new pistons.
Don't even mess with the connecting rods and crank, just get "rebuilt ones". That's $200 with the bearings included.
Don't use the TRW pistons they are too expensive. Use the KB.
If the seat is too beaten to clean up with a three angle then you can have a valve seat installed in it. The dings in the chamber don't really mean too much.
Mag the head and pressure test it. It probably is ok.
As far as the block goes, it could be sleeved. The sleeved blocks are actually stronger then the non sleeved ones.
Of course you should consider new pistons.
Don't even mess with the connecting rods and crank, just get "rebuilt ones". That's $200 with the bearings included.
Don't use the TRW pistons they are too expensive. Use the KB.
Thanks for the input. The head mag'd and pressure tested fine. I was just worried about the cast portion of the valve guide. I'll check it out again today.
The block sleeved fine. The rods are all fine. I'm getting one new piston and having it balanced to match the others if necessary. The crank is fine, just needs a slight polish in a seemingly unrelated area.
The most I can determine about the cam is that CWC was the original supplier of the cam blank. I don't know who it was actually purchased from. I liked the way everything ran before and I'm just trying to put it back together. I just wish I could determine more info about the cam.
The block sleeved fine. The rods are all fine. I'm getting one new piston and having it balanced to match the others if necessary. The crank is fine, just needs a slight polish in a seemingly unrelated area.
The most I can determine about the cam is that CWC was the original supplier of the cam blank. I don't know who it was actually purchased from. I liked the way everything ran before and I'm just trying to put it back together. I just wish I could determine more info about the cam.
The fuseable link is the valve not the guide.
The stem is probably bent like a pretzle.
The guide should be ok. Even if it is loose, it too can be sleeved.
Even in a disaster there is some degree of luck necessary.
There were people that survived the Titanic and 9/11.
The stem is probably bent like a pretzle.
The guide should be ok. Even if it is loose, it too can be sleeved.
Even in a disaster there is some degree of luck necessary.
There were people that survived the Titanic and 9/11.