Oh, this car is all original with less than 9k miles; Trailer Queen. So, I'm hoping to find a very good original steel pan.....from one of you who drives your car and made the upgrade to a performance pan. Any out there?
I am confused. The initial goal was just to replace the oil pan gasket, for which all you really need is for the pan to drop down a little bit.
apparently you somehow managed to completely remove the oil pan?, something most of us have always thought could not be done. 👍👍
with that done you found a crankshaft interference-I am still wondering how that even happens——-which could easily be resolved with a little grinding on the affected baffle.
why do you now want to replace your oil pan?
Larry
Good question. I left some parts of the story out! I initially dropped the pan thinking I could get it all the way out. There was no way put a new gasket in without removing the oil pan, just no room and expect it to seal. The gasket in there was original! So I bolted it back up, changed the oil to move the car to a different lift and there was a small ticking sound and I got concerned, it also leaked a lot as can be expected. The pan was distorted at some point in it's life. The sump area is pushed up about 3/8", and the back area has a small 1/8" indentation. Glad I was able to get it out without drive train removal, as I thought I had a much bigger problem with that new ticking sound. Sure, I could grind the baffle, but look at the bottom of the pan in the image, the car deserves a new pan that is not distorted. Hope I can find one.....
I have a pan in the corner of my garage.
Steve