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With a h...uvalotta work, a Ford Boss 302 will fit. Any extra torque over what a 5-liter engine can deliver will probably hopelessly tweek the rear suspension and what passes for a rear frame on the 'Goose. Better you look for high-rpm power in this machine. of go through a total chassis stiffening regime. I've seen a late '90s injected 5.0 that fits beautifully as well. No one that I know of has tried a SOHC 4.6 (the DOHC 4.6 is way too wide without chopping the car up. Which IMHO would be a sin & a crime).
quote:
Originally posted by jack deryke:
With a h...uvalotta work, a Ford Boss 302 will fit. Any extra torque over what a 5-liter engine can deliver will probably hopelessly tweek the rear suspension and what passes for a rear frame on the 'Goose. Better you look for high-rpm power in this machine. of go through a total chassis stiffening regime. I've seen a late '90s injected 5.0 that fits beautifully as well. No one that I know of has tried a SOHC 4.6 (the DOHC 4.6 is way too wide without chopping the car up. Which IMHO would be a sin & a crime).


What about an aluminum block 302? Maybe that would be the best way to go. The block weighs about 92lbs. My goal would be to reduce rear end weight while at the same time improving hp. Opinions.
The problem as I see it is NOT engine weight, its simple engine torque! Secondarily, the dimensions of some engine's heads can run into stiffening tubes. Which on a 'Goose, is about all you got back there, so cutting or relocating any tubes seriously compromises the structure. As for stiffening up the existing structure, I'm gonna defer to Steve Liebenow, 'Goose owner, who IMHO has done about everything to his '69 with a Boss 302 installed, that one can do to a Mangusta.
Madguy,

I have a Boss motor in my car, but it has Aussie heads on it with the smaller ports. Runs great! Larger stock Boss ports would barely fit if at all. Goombas that build my car put 2V headers on 4V Boss heads...DUH! So, the Aussie thing was a natural. However, the ports dump right on the frame rails requiring an immediate bend in the tubes, something which is not good.

IF I was going to do it all over again, which I may.... I'd use an aluminum 302 block fitted with aluminum heads and intake. Stick with the standard Windsor design. Why? Stuff fits better. Headers will work, no kinks in the flow, jackshaft still may work with the right intake. Taller intakes may require a custom shaft holder, as had to be made for the Boss.

As for your frame, you will need to look at the connections for your shocks etc carefully. Some of these are fairly thin metal and have been known to crack. My rear trans xmember had cracked over time and needed some welding. Thin metal! Later cars appear to have some different bracing throughout. You'll want to reach out and explore this area.

The car will still be very flexible due to the central spine design. I think the only thing that will fix this is to install a full roll cage with additional anchors front and rear. George Gordon-Smith, of the UK, drives an ex-race car that has been reworked extensively. This is also a late car, I believe a 71, also RH drive! You may want to reach out on the deTomaso forum to try and reach him. I have his address somewhere...but I know he does read from time to time, as well as posts stuff in the POCA quarterlys.

Hope this helps you! These cars are certainly not as easy to drop stuff into, as are the Panteras. Stick with the 302 and you'll have less headaches!

Steve
George's e-mail address is george@orchard-trust.org.uk

Indeed, his car spent much of its life on the racetrack, and was a moderately successful all-out racecar. He has slowly been converting it back to a street car. He knows what was done to it (good and bad, lots of each) to stiffen it up and make it more responsive on the track.

------------------
Charlie McCall
1972 DeTomaso Pantera #3847 (for sale)
1985 DeTomaso Pantera GT5-S #9375
"Raising Pantera Awareness across Europe"
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/gt5s_1985
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