New clutch, Centerforce, installed. Do not have enough throw and free play. Is it necessary to go from original slavecylinder to a "long" throw one?
Very close now...
Any advise!?
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The long throw slave shouldn't be necessary, but it will give a slightly longer throw.
Are you sure that you have a "Pantera specific" clutch??? Or is it a regular Ford/Mustang clutch??? The regular Ford/Mustang disc is thicker than the Pantera disc.
John
Are you sure that you have a "Pantera specific" clutch??? Or is it a regular Ford/Mustang clutch??? The regular Ford/Mustang disc is thicker than the Pantera disc.
John
Yes,it is that one for a Pantera with disc and aluminium flywheel. Had a zoom long style with Fidenza before, no problem and good free play.
The clutch arm needs to be in a nearly vertical (straight up) position when the clutch is fully at rest and the adjustment screw is against the stop. It may need to be rotated one spline, with corresponding adjustment to the slave's pushrod.
Can you get about 1.5mm (0.060") free play and have the clutch disengage completely? If so, drive the car 80 to 100km while making lots of shifts. Don't slip the clutch and don't make hard launches, just lots of shifting. This will wear off most of the "fluff" from the new disc, and should help. Then readjust the free play at the slave.
Or, you can just try the long throw slave, which will give you more "throw" right-out-of-the-box.
John
Can you get about 1.5mm (0.060") free play and have the clutch disengage completely? If so, drive the car 80 to 100km while making lots of shifts. Don't slip the clutch and don't make hard launches, just lots of shifting. This will wear off most of the "fluff" from the new disc, and should help. Then readjust the free play at the slave.
Or, you can just try the long throw slave, which will give you more "throw" right-out-of-the-box.
John
How much free play can you get and still have the clutch disengage fully??
Can you get at least 0.060" (or more) of free play and get the clutch to release fully??
Driving the 80-100km with at least 0.060" of free play won't hurt the throw-out bearing for that short distance. You don't need to use high engine rpm's for the drive.
I can't tell for sure from your pic, but do you have a block spacer plate installed between the engine block and the bellhousing?? If that plate is NOT installed, the throw-out bearing moves ~0.070" CLOSER to the fingers of the pressure plate, which COULD cause free play problems.
John
Can you get at least 0.060" (or more) of free play and get the clutch to release fully??
Driving the 80-100km with at least 0.060" of free play won't hurt the throw-out bearing for that short distance. You don't need to use high engine rpm's for the drive.
I can't tell for sure from your pic, but do you have a block spacer plate installed between the engine block and the bellhousing?? If that plate is NOT installed, the throw-out bearing moves ~0.070" CLOSER to the fingers of the pressure plate, which COULD cause free play problems.
John
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Yes, the plate is in place
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Tack för hjälpen...
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've tried to read me to a solution to my problem. but can not figure out what is wrong. someone who has solved this problem before?
anyone have an idea how I get the clutch pedal to take longer out? Today I have to push it all the way down to the bottom (or more
to disconnect it. In fact, I have to double tap the pedal to not get skarape sounds into the transmission. I have replaced the slave cylinder and bled the system well. The problem is that before I changed the sylynder it was enough to push the pedal into 2-3cm before it hit bottom. and I want me back there is it the length of the shaft on the sylinder so has to be adjusted farther out??
Thanks
Freddy
7207
anyone have an idea how I get the clutch pedal to take longer out? Today I have to push it all the way down to the bottom (or more
to disconnect it. In fact, I have to double tap the pedal to not get skarape sounds into the transmission. I have replaced the slave cylinder and bled the system well. The problem is that before I changed the sylynder it was enough to push the pedal into 2-3cm before it hit bottom. and I want me back there is it the length of the shaft on the sylinder so has to be adjusted farther out??Thanks
Freddy
7207
quote:Originally posted by pantera chris:quote:Originally posted by pantera chris:
Yes, The shaft that connects the slave to the arm that actuates the clutch is adjustable. Pull the boot away from the slave and you will see a lock nut and a threaded clevis when you loosen this nut you can by turning the clevis adjust the length of the bolt, the longer the bolt or clevis, the further it will move the clutch to disengage from the flywheel, when I replaced my slave with a aluminum unit, I had to adjust the clevis as described. Don't panic it's very easy, take your time and mark the bolt so you know how many turns you make, try the clutch and continue until your happy.quote:Originally posted by Lofoten:
've tried to read me to a solution to my problem. but can not figure out what is wrong. someone who has solved this problem before?
anyone have an idea how I get the clutch pedal to take longer out? Today I have to push it all the way down to the bottom (or more
Thanks
Freddy
7207
This made a big difference
Thanks Chris
Thanks Chris
Does anyone know the clutch plate differance between a pantera clutch and mustang reg ford clutch?
quote:Does anyone know the clutch plate differance between a pantera clutch and mustang reg ford clutch?
The Pantera disc is thinner, and (IIRC) it does not have any marcel, which allows the disc to be thinner.
The Pantera pressure plate does not have any external counterweights.
John
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