Skip to main content

Replies sorted oldest to newest

The clutch arm needs to be in a nearly vertical (straight up) position when the clutch is fully at rest and the adjustment screw is against the stop. It may need to be rotated one spline, with corresponding adjustment to the slave's pushrod.


Can you get about 1.5mm (0.060") free play and have the clutch disengage completely? If so, drive the car 80 to 100km while making lots of shifts. Don't slip the clutch and don't make hard launches, just lots of shifting. This will wear off most of the "fluff" from the new disc, and should help. Then readjust the free play at the slave.

Or, you can just try the long throw slave, which will give you more "throw" right-out-of-the-box.

John
How much free play can you get and still have the clutch disengage fully??

Can you get at least 0.060" (or more) of free play and get the clutch to release fully??

Driving the 80-100km with at least 0.060" of free play won't hurt the throw-out bearing for that short distance. You don't need to use high engine rpm's for the drive.

I can't tell for sure from your pic, but do you have a block spacer plate installed between the engine block and the bellhousing?? If that plate is NOT installed, the throw-out bearing moves ~0.070" CLOSER to the fingers of the pressure plate, which COULD cause free play problems.

John

Attachments

Images (1)
  • Block_Plate
've tried to read me to a solution to my problem. but can not figure out what is wrong. someone who has solved this problem before?


anyone have an idea how I get the clutch pedal to take longer out? Today I have to push it all the way down to the bottom (or moreSmiler to disconnect it. In fact, I have to double tap the pedal to not get skarape sounds into the transmission. I have replaced the slave cylinder and bled the system well. The problem is that before I changed the sylynder it was enough to push the pedal into 2-3cm before it hit bottom. and I want me back there Smileris it the length of the shaft on the sylinder so has to be adjusted farther out??
Thanks

Freddy
7207
quote:
Originally posted by pantera chris:
quote:
Originally posted by pantera chris:
Yes, The shaft that connects the slave to the arm that actuates the clutch is adjustable. Pull the boot away from the slave and you will see a lock nut and a threaded clevis when you loosen this nut you can by turning the clevis adjust the length of the bolt, the longer the bolt or clevis, the further it will move the clutch to disengage from the flywheel, when I replaced my slave with a aluminum unit, I had to adjust the clevis as described. Don't panic it's very easy, take your time and mark the bolt so you know how many turns you make, try the clutch and continue until your happy.
quote:
Originally posted by Lofoten:
've tried to read me to a solution to my problem. but can not figure out what is wrong. someone who has solved this problem before?


anyone have an idea how I get the clutch pedal to take longer out? Today I have to push it all the way down to the bottom (or moreSmiler to disconnect it. In fact, I have to double tap the pedal to not get skarape sounds into the transmission. I have replaced the slave cylinder and bled the system well. The problem is that before I changed the sylynder it was enough to push the pedal into 2-3cm before it hit bottom. and I want me back there Smileris it the length of the shaft on the sylinder so has to be adjusted farther out??
Thanks

Freddy
7207
Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×