Clutch Master Replacement

If you have a stock master, you could take it out, disassemble and have the seals changed, if the bore looks good. I think other thread had POCA newsletter saying Pantera East and Roland Jäckel in Europe have stock masters available from the original mfg.
That is the way of least headache, if it's stock stuff you have there.

I'm in a middle of Master and slave changes, when my plastic(!!) Wilwood master installed by PO gave up the ghost, by wearing a groove to the bore. I had suitable size CNC stainless MC on shelf as leftover from other project, and went to install that.
I can tell you its easier to go stock route. Nothing major, but if the supplier has not thought about following things, you need to:

1. Typical aftermarket rod has SAE thread, when the stock system has metric. So either you figure out the whole rod setup (long enough) as SAE and find proper clevis, or you rig the old rod into the wilwood, which can be done, but in my old system required a spacer between master and firewall.
2. Bolt spacing is little different, so you need to round file the master holes.
3. You may need to figure out the plumbing connection to master (not sure how plug an play this is, as I haven't looked at stock system closely)
4. If your clutch was well adjusted and working with stock setup, I wouldn't begin changing things lightly. It's going to be fun enough without additional variables

Cheers,
-Janne

You might be better off just having a bronze sleeve installed in your original; it would sure be a lot easier. It's what I'm going to do with mine. I had my original brake master sleeved last year & it works flawlessly.

I'd recommend the Roland Jäckel sourced Clutch masters. Had one on each of my two Panteras, easy to install (one installed in a France parking lot) and worked perfectly ever since.

I decided to try to bleed the system last night, thinking that maybe it was air in the system since my resivor was really low, before i dive into the master cylinder.

Looks like I may be in the market for a slave cylinder too...the bleader sheared off. Going to attempt an EZ out first. Anyone know what the details are on these bleaders - like where i could get one?
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I've seen two different bleeder sizes listed for the stock Slave; M6 x 1.0 and 1/4 x 28. Either size should be available at most local parts stores. I ordered a Speed Bleeder for mine from Ebay, it was part# SB6100, which is M6 X 1.0. It makes bleeding the slave yourself so easy!

BTW, if you buy a Speed Bleeder and ever break one off you can send it to them and they will remove the old one, install a new one, and mail it back to you for free. I've done this myself and it is indeed true.

If you feel like fixing a broken Speed Bleeder yourself here's the procedure (scroll down their page): CLICK LINK HERE

Thanks 1973, you've been a big help to me this morning in several threads!

Speedway Motors in NE sells a bleeder repair kit consisting of a pipe-threaded bushing threaded internally for a std bleeder. You bore out the broken end however you can, drill & tap the hole for the new thread and you're back in business- maybe.
But experience has shown that the master cylinder and slave often wear out as a set; changing only one usually results in going back in there within a year to do the other half. Problem is, both stock cylinders were soft iron and owners simply won't change fluid yearly. So water accumulates in the fluid and rusts the bores, which tears the seals. Honing the rust out makes the bores too big to function leak-free with the adapted repair "kits"- there are no true rebuild kits for either part.
Bottom line- you're better off replacing rather than rebuilding unless you really know what you're doing. I always recommend using a stainless steel long-throw slave cylinder with some type of anodized aluminum master, both available from Pantera vendors. Both are much more corrosion resistant than stock, and the long-throw slave will give more clutch disengagement, preserving what's left of your ZF gear synchronizers.

Agree with Bosswrench, replace both master and slave unless one is very new. I wouldn't use a long throw though, if the clutch is adjusted properly it's not necessary. That said, there's not much tolerance for misadjustment in the Pantera clutch. And get a braided line to replace the plastic

For adjusting, here's a link, I wrote this up, mostly for myself, since the Pantera is my first non-automatic performance car
Clutch adjustment instruction

Got the bleeder removed. Tired and EZ out first, with no success. After that I took a piece of 1/4" 4140 and ground a knife edge on it and tapped it CCW till i got it out. Upon inspection of the remains of the bleeder I determined it to be M6x1.00 threads. This is not available at most autoparts vendors, AutoZone, Advance, Napa, Summit, etc. I was looking through some boxes of "old parts" that I had recieved with the car, and to my GREAT suprise there was an old slave cylinder...with a bleeder! i swapped it out...havent got a chance to bleed the system yet. Was working on the engine over the weekend - which was frustrating enough.

If you need more try; http://speedbleeder.com/

M6 x 1mm x 25

Mark