Clutch Master Replacement time

The biggest challenge will be disconnecting and reconnecting the pushrod from the linkage. Unless you have freakishly small and nimble hands, do what I found to be a big help. Get a 2" hole saw and cut an access hole in the side of the pedal box where you can get at the pin from the front trunk area. Then, replace the stock pin and c-clips with a pin or cut down bolt that can accept a cotter pin. Fab a small piece of sheet metal to cover the hole.

That's a really good idea. Yet, as a potential option...

I have the world's longest pair of needle nose pliers, purchased to replace a cotter pin inaccessible unless you were on the assembly line BUILDING a Ferrari 512TR and in charge of installing the front trunk strut.

After that, if said strut failed, you either sold the car or purchased the aforementioned needle nose pliers. They are conservatively 28 feet long, but I might exaggerate.

I will do what I can to fenagle access with the needle nose, but if that fails, my hole saw will be spinning! Thanks for the tip.

How difficult is it to re-fill the cylinder and all that?

quote:

Originally posted by A Hudson:
.......
How difficult is it to re-fill the cylinder and all that?

Once you get it all buttoned up, the rest is cake. I highly recommend a Motive power bleeder. You hook it up to the master, put some fluid in the tank, pump it to 15 psi and bleed the system in a few minutes. Easy one man operation. Perfect results.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Motive-P...rentProductId=753543

THRILLED to hear you say that! I have a Motive bleeder, yet unused since a small radiator draining. Looks like my Saturday is getting planned out! Thanks.

IF you need to cut the hole, my recommendation is to purchase your cover first, then cut the appropriate sized hole...

Standard hardware store plug for counter/sink faucet (1.5" diameter)


Dome plugs - various sizes up to 2" dia.
http://www.capsnplugs.com/prod...eplugsdopseries.aspx


Flush style plugs - available up to 4" dia.
http://www.capsnplugs.com/prod...shstylesiseries.aspx


Recessed style plugs - available 2.5"-3" dia.
http://www.capsnplugs.com/prod...edstylesiseries.aspx


Multi-Purpose plugs - similar to std hardware store plumbing plugs.
http://www.capsnplugs.com/prod...ultipurposeplug.aspx


And the Motiv-Bleeder ROCKS!!! Easiest fluid flush/change I've ever done on the brakes - so easy I did it myself on ALL my cars! I used ATE Super Blue brake fluid so it's easy to see when all the old fluid has been flushed and only new (blue) fluid is coming through. Next year, I'll use the ATE Type 200 Amber fluid (same characteristics as Super Blue) when I do the fluid flush so I can easily see when all the old fluid has been replaced by new.

Wow. You guys make it almost sound like fun to do hydraulic work! Enthusiasm is a good trait far as I'm concerned.

Garth, thanks for all the plug info. If I can't deal with the space limitations, I'll be a'plugging. Hopefully not though.

I was able to stuff my 210#, 6'-2" frame upside down in the drivers footwell and deal with the linkage and stuff without any extra holes. I think I had the drivers seat out. That helped.

What you will find handy is a u-joint socket on a long extension to hold the master cylinder nut heads under the dash while an assistant does the turning part from the front trunk.

A little tape wrapped around the socket u-joint will help hold the desired angle and make it less floppy.

Okay, I did it. No holes were drilled, but let me tell you, I thought about it. Honestly - overall the big access hole probably would save some time. Yet there are complications...

The bolt heads are pinched against the dust boot on the push rod, making ANY tool a pain in the pasta to deal with. Those Italians.

This is NOT a one man job either, though for 4 hours it was. I musta gotten in and out of the car 874 times (whose counting?) to attach/reattach a wrench or wedge SOMETHING to keep it from turning. I mean, 'wow'.

Finally got my son to help me out and that was the turning point. Got the old one out by myself, but the new one would NOT go in w/o an extra set of hands.

Mine had clearly been leaking awhile. My carpet had some stains, as did the kick panel next to the gas pedal (right under the clutch master).

This was an evil job. Got a question though - -

The junction between the reservoir and the metal housing had on the new one had the most minor seepage. Is this normal 'til they 'seat'? Or... well, I don't even want to THINK about the 'or' right now.

Drove the car home, ran awesome, clutch shifted well, and I'm drinking a beer, so all is well.

Tell me what you think of the seepage and I'll deal with it later.

Congrats on the repair Mr Hudson !
Knew you could do it ! And I/we told you you needed 2 sets of hands.

The seepage is not normal and will not stop. I had the same issue after my rebuild.
I used a aviation gasket sealer (nasty tar like substance ) on the washer ring and it sealed fine. There are other sealers that probably work as well.
Jeff

Was afraid of that. Drove it today, seepage continues. Emailed vendor for a hopeful remedy.

My old one merely unscrews from the base, but the bases are 'slightly' different, so the new one requires a thin 27mm wrench to tighten, not everyday garage fare.

Did you replace the metal washer ?

No, but that's the plan. Got to get the tool first. Argh.

Harbor Frieght cheap combination wrench....and a good bench or handheld grinder. Wala. Speciality tool!

quote:

Originally posted by OSOFAST:
Harbor Frieght cheap combination wrench....and a good bench or handheld grinder. Wala. Speciality tool!

HA! My cheap thinking entirely!

I actually was on their website (a good one too) last night and found a thin set of large mm wrenches. Couldn't believe it.

I plan to head there today, wearing a mask in case Jeff Udelson is prowling in the parking lot.

Scored the tool. Worked like a champ (no cutting required). Now, I can anneal the old copper washer, but since the fluid is so darn thin, does anyone know if 'blue' thread sealant will stand up to synthetic fluid?

Anybody?

Didn't get a reply, parts dude said it would work. Used the blue thread seal. Refilled everything, pumped it up. So far so good, no leaks at present. For the record, the sponsoring vendor was unconcerned. Oh well.

Been a week, and no leaks. Looks like the 'blue' stuff is holding up. yay.

Congrats on the fix Hudson! What was the blue thread sealer you used? I'd like to know for future reference.

quote:

Originally posted by garth66:
Congrats on the fix Hudson! What was the blue thread sealer you used? I'd like to know for future reference.

Finally! I can quit talking to myself!

It is 'blue' thread sealer from Permatex. They make a 'red' that requires a special method to remove; the blue only hand tools. I was really kinda surprised it worked.

quote:

It is 'blue' thread sealer from Permatex.

Adams,

Part number??

John

quote:

Originally posted by jb1490:
Adams,
Part number??
John

This is the stuff. Got mine at O'Reilly's.But available all over...

http://permatex.carshopinc.com...ducts_id/42249/24200

Cool! I already have that in the toolbox.

Thanks!
Garth
#4033

Thanks Adams.

John