Dear friends, wich clutch do you use together with the aluminum mc leod flywheel?
Thanks
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Unless you are okay with redrilling the flywheel bolt pattern, your pressure plate must match the McLeod pattern.
I would think their website would indicate just what fits? 10 1/2" or 11"
Larry
I would think their website would indicate just what fits? 10 1/2" or 11"
Larry
Expect to adjust the linkage on ANY 351-C clutch in a Pantera, especially those running an aluminum flywheel. None or very few will be a drop-in fit because the flange that bolts to the crank is thicker for aluminum flywheels, thus the clutch's working surface is spaced away from the engine a bit. And the discs these days are thicker than OEM, since the elimination of asbestos in clutch discs. Other than adjustments to the linkage, about any good clutch system will work.
In england, if you want euthanasia its NOT allowed, we have to travel to Switzerland to a clinic called Dignitas, where they will charge you lots of francs to "switch you off"
I had so many problems with my pantera clutch system, I almost booked a flight to dignitas.
The clutch system is just so awful and ill designed luckily I was saved by Roland Jaekel in Germany!
I had so many problems with my pantera clutch system, I almost booked a flight to dignitas.
The clutch system is just so awful and ill designed luckily I was saved by Roland Jaekel in Germany!
Hi Peter,
And you sell me the clutch parts what are not right ?
Simon
And you sell me the clutch parts what are not right ?
Simon
FWIW, I use a modified Tilton concentric piston hydraulic throwout system from dirt track racing and discard all the mechanical linkage in and on the bellhousing. This method is not without its own problems though, since if ANYTHING goes wrong, the ZF must come out of the car to adjust or repair. A few U.S vendors used to sell such systems years ago, but they are difficult to set up correctly. Set incorrectly, they will leak and warranty returns killed that market.
I have the mc leod clutch system , flywheel , central piston and half organic plate.
The problem is that I got some gearbox oil on the sinterplate and now my clutch is not tight enough.
I heard that there should be some harder Springs and some guys use full organic clutchplats . My Engine have about 550 hp so I do not know wich is better. Organic or sinter ?
Thanks
The problem is that I got some gearbox oil on the sinterplate and now my clutch is not tight enough.
I heard that there should be some harder Springs and some guys use full organic clutchplats . My Engine have about 550 hp so I do not know wich is better. Organic or sinter ?
Thanks
Pantera clutches were a compromise from the very beginning.
To me there isn't a lot of sense to use a full racing clutch since the limiting factor is the ZF.
You can't power shift them so a compromise between that and the original is in order.
The 'dual friction" is by no means a perfect animal. In fact, not even close BUT it has a combination of hard/softer clutch linings, will hold about 800 hp and is a decent street clutch for pedal effort.
No matter what you put in the car, you are going to HAVE to finagle it to get enough travel to give you minimum clearance.
.045" is not easy to get in this car and that is MINIMUM. .050 would be better.
The aluminum flywheel, because it has a thicker hub, puts the disc closer to the 'pressure plate'. There isn't enough room there now with a steel or iron flywheel.
How you are going to find the addition travel for the throwout bearing is beyond me.
Remember to that like BW has said, few drivers press the pedal all the way to the floor. If you don't, then you are just shifting without complete release which in a ZF is just setting the time bomb ticking in motion.
To me there isn't a lot of sense to use a full racing clutch since the limiting factor is the ZF.
You can't power shift them so a compromise between that and the original is in order.
The 'dual friction" is by no means a perfect animal. In fact, not even close BUT it has a combination of hard/softer clutch linings, will hold about 800 hp and is a decent street clutch for pedal effort.
No matter what you put in the car, you are going to HAVE to finagle it to get enough travel to give you minimum clearance.
.045" is not easy to get in this car and that is MINIMUM. .050 would be better.
The aluminum flywheel, because it has a thicker hub, puts the disc closer to the 'pressure plate'. There isn't enough room there now with a steel or iron flywheel.
How you are going to find the addition travel for the throwout bearing is beyond me.
Remember to that like BW has said, few drivers press the pedal all the way to the floor. If you don't, then you are just shifting without complete release which in a ZF is just setting the time bomb ticking in motion.
Peter, if you have a concentric piston hydraulic-throwout system, the setup difficulties are in setting up free play in the hydraulic cylinder. You MUST have at least 0.060" free clearance in neutral. That is, the internal piston MUST not ever be bottomed against its cylinder, including when the assembly gets hot and expands. If the piston bottoms, it and the throwout bearing will be in constant contact with the clutch fingers and all will spin with the clutch/flywheel. The quad-ring piston seal is only designed to take slow linear motion, not rotation. If the piston rotates, the seal will leak after maybe 50 miles, and changing a quad ring seal is quite a job once you've pulled the whole ZF out and hoisted it up on a bench.
It is called a quad-ring because it is not just a square ring but has lobes on both sides. Its designed to seal both the outside of the cylinder-to piston AND allow the piston to remain sealed while moving longitudinally. Setting the free play is made more difficult due to the extra thickness of the aluminum flywheel's flange. That subtracts from the free play correctly set with an iron/steel flywheel. Setting free play means moving the whole concentric-piston & body back towards the ZF, not forward towards the engine. Some systems like my Tilton must be remachined for any extra flywheel thickness. The only saving grace is, the internal pressures of a hydraulic clutch are fairly low compared to brake pressures. The good part is, throwout bearing stroke is at least 0.090" and usually more instead of only 0.050" as stock. This saves ZF synchros.
It is called a quad-ring because it is not just a square ring but has lobes on both sides. Its designed to seal both the outside of the cylinder-to piston AND allow the piston to remain sealed while moving longitudinally. Setting the free play is made more difficult due to the extra thickness of the aluminum flywheel's flange. That subtracts from the free play correctly set with an iron/steel flywheel. Setting free play means moving the whole concentric-piston & body back towards the ZF, not forward towards the engine. Some systems like my Tilton must be remachined for any extra flywheel thickness. The only saving grace is, the internal pressures of a hydraulic clutch are fairly low compared to brake pressures. The good part is, throwout bearing stroke is at least 0.090" and usually more instead of only 0.050" as stock. This saves ZF synchros.
I would strongly recommend the dual disk clutch from McLeod, I have one and I love it! They make a specific clutch and throw out bearing combo that is just unbeatable!
quote:Originally posted by GT4Peter:
Dear friends, wich clutch do you use together with the aluminum mc leod flywheel?
Thanks