Correct Autolite/Motorcraft Carb Model ID 71 Model

That intake manifold has a large EGR passage on the right hand side of the carburetor mounting pad. EGR wasn't used until 1973. I can't make out the full casting number, I can see 9425-AAX. What are the first 4 digits? FYI D1 = 1971, D3 = 1973.

Is it made from aluminum or cast iron?

Due to the EGR I strongly doubt that manifold was original to your pushbutton Pantera.

Many push button Panteras had an aluminum manifold D1ZZ-9424-G or D1ZX-9425-DA, with a 600 cfm Holley vacuum secondary carburetor. Or they had the standard cast iron manifold D0AE-L with the standard 630 CFM Autolite 4300A carburetor.

Looks like a D3ZE-AA intake = 1973 spreadbore design.

http://www.mustangtek.com/Intake/D3ZE-9425-AA.html

It's D3ZE-9425AA. It's cast iron.
Looks like a 1973 Cobra Jet Mustang application

Certainly possible it was changed. 30 years ago there were shop people working on the car who's goal was to make it "run better" or pass emissions.

No thoughts about originality back then.

quote:

D1ZX-9425-DA

FWIW - Here's a D1ZX-9425-CA on eBay, using the 4300D carb. http://www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-O...AOSw8-tWVw0G&vxp=mtr

There's an NOS -DA for $2995, http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-35...AOSw5ZBWGlgB&vxp=mtr

These were $250 manifolds not long ago.

The iron manifold is what came on the Pantera and performance wise is the same as the aluminum version.

Aluminum is just for weight savings. It has no performance advantage.

If you want original, go iron.

If the OE manifold was changed on this car, the reason has been lost to time.

My quandry is, should I match a carb to this manifold and call it good. It is basically a correct setup. Finding a '73 model spread bore has been relatively easy.

Or is it possible this is the original manifold, in which case I should hang on and try to find a '71 model carburettor.

Whatever came on a 71 351c-4v Mustang is what was on that intake.

At this point in time it is of little value to anyone.

originality is very unlikely to be worth substantial significance in the future.

There are NO judging bodies that have any kind of accepted authority on originality on these cars like on a Mustang (MCA) or Shelbys (SAAC & MCA).

Until there are and there is some kind of a standardization for them originality is pointless.

Right now that is only a "sales pitch" by a seller who is their own judge.

I agree with Doug on all points.

Here's a cast iron manifold D0AE-L that George says is also "correct" for only $165 & free shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-F...p2141725.m3641.l6368

GPER, if you ever consider actually driving on the road with that Pantera, before you buy anything, I suggest you find yourself someone who knows how to work on or tune Autolite/Motorcraft 4bbls. There are not many & kits are scarce. You might spend a couple of thousand and wind up with a period-correct car that won't run reliably & gets 8 mpg. A Holley 650 or 700 will be reliable, can be serviced anywhere and gives 20+ mpg. Some vendors give or throw that stuff away 'cause there's little market for it. Call around- you might find something not worth putting on E-Bay for free.

The 1973 spread bore manifold was not even available in 1971. It is impossible for it to have been original equipment on your pushbutton Pantera. It is frankly only good for a boat anchor. Acquire & install a D0AE-L iron manifold plus a decent "street" carburetor in the 600 to 650 cfm range, vacuum secondary, electric choke.

Here's 3 good choices:
QFT SS-680-VS (down-leg boosters, center hung fuel bowls)
Demon 1282020VE (annular boosters, center hung fuel bowls)
Summit Racing M08600VS (annular boosters, side hung fuel bowls)

The Summit Racing carb is based upon the "pre-emissions era" (1950/1960) Autolite 4100 four barrel carburetor. It is relatively inexpensive, reliable, performs well once it is dialed-in for your application, and has no gaskets or seams below the fuel level. It uses readily available Holley parts for tuning. It will bolt directly onto the D0AE-L manifold. It would be a far better choice than fiddling with an old "emissions era" Autolite 4300A carburetor, which is about as worthless as that spread bore manifold.

Hey GPER,
Just to let you know my car is a 12/1973 date code with that spread bore manifold, when it had the factory carb, (which I rebuilt,) it ran well in a straight line but would run out of fuel in the corners due to the fuel not being picked up because of the design. My 720 cfm holley makes the car run great. Source the carb but sell it with the car as an original part (if it is) and say to the new owner you will like this one (on it) better. Just my 2 cents.

Joe

Thanks for all the info. This project is caught in the driveability vs. originality vortex.

I'm not an authority on the issue, but it seems logical to me that these particular versions of the Pantera (pushbuttons) are scarce enough that they may generate interest from a different sort of enthusiast.

It may never be a daily driver again and originality could trump enhanced performance.
Beyond an aluminum radiator and this manifold/carb issue, it is in extremely original condition. Right down to the tool kit and Becker radio.

Thanks again for all the comments and advise.

I understand your dilemma.

quote:

Originally posted by gper:
Thanks for all the info. This project is caught in the driveability vs. originality vortex.

I'm not an authority on the issue, but it seems logical to me that these particular versions of the Pantera (pushbuttons) are scarce enough that they may generate interest from a different sort of enthusiast.

It may never be a daily driver again and originality could trump enhanced performance.
Beyond an aluminum radiator and this manifold/carb issue, it is in extremely original condition. Right down to the tool kit and Becker radio.

Thanks again for all the comments and advise.

"Originality" only benefits the owner if the car sits in a museum.
"Driveability" is for a car, who's owner actually drives.

Which owner are you?

quote:

Originally posted by gper:
I though I had this sourced, but with more research am now not so sure.

The manifold is a "Boss" style spread bore with 2" secondaries, so a 4300 "D" model seems correct.

Does anybody know the correct stamped part number ie. "D1XX XX" that belongs on it.

If i'm going this far to get it correct, I might as well get it really correct if possible.

Thanks

quote:

Originally posted by mangustaman:

quote:

Originally posted by gper:
I though I had this sourced, but with more research am now not so sure.

The manifold is a "Boss" style spread bore with 2" secondaries, so a 4300 "D" model seems correct.I will look at the 4300 on my mangusta when I get back from skiing sunday and let you know whatthe serial no. says and what the tag on it says.Could you please call me at 928-853-0473 in Tempe AZ re your pushbutton. Thanks Jerry McGlothin flagstaff AZ and Tempe AZ.

Does anybody know the correct stamped part number ie. "D1XX XX" that belongs on it.

If i'm going this far to get it correct, I might as well get it really correct if possible.

Thanks

quote:

Originally posted by gper:
Thanks for all the info. This project is caught in the driveability vs. originality vortex.

I'm not an authority on the issue, but it seems logical to me that these particular versions of the Pantera (pushbuttons) are scarce enough that they may generate interest from a different sort of enthusiast.

It may never be a daily driver again and originality could trump enhanced performance.
Beyond an aluminum radiator and this manifold/carb issue, it is in extremely original condition. Right down to the tool kit and Becker radio.

Thanks again for all the comments and advise.


please call me at 928-853-0473 Tempe AZ

No one listens to a radio in these cars or uses the original tool kit, but I get it.