Coyote build is looking good and thanks to all helping!

The engine looks good in your Pantera.  Getting me to think about an Coyote engine swap for my Pantera.  Can you share what motor mounts and all other hardware you needed to use for the swap and all of the obstacles you had with the engine swap or was it straight forward LOL.  Do you have to go with a cable shift linkage or keep the standard.  THanks,

There is a lot to it. On the list of difficulty, I’d rate it very high. Multiple changes need to be made, and multiple components purchased. It is a phone conversation vs a forum tutorial. I did consider doing a YouTube on it and may still, but I’m waiting on parts (one of the difficulties) and not complete. You can go with cable shift or CV’s. Either will work. I say Skip the cable shift bc the gate is awesome and is part of the personality of the car. U-joints vs CV’s don’t make much difference in my mind….arguably an improvement without taking personality away

I was thinking of getting some cvs as well. Interested to see how they turn out

I'll be doing the same.  Swapping out the 4.6 for a Coyote crate engine.  Just need to find the time.

Wow! Please tell us more about the fuel injection setup. Those stacks look great!

I love the Borla intake with the TB's at an angle. The system works great too. The last time I was at Autotrend EFI in Diamond Springs, CA they had that exact setup on a Coyote in a 1950's Ford pickup street rod. The TB's were Cerakoted black and the manifold was gray. I should have taken pictures. Looked deadly and ran even better.

Thought I’d give an update. Just mounted the new and improved Bosch 044 (sku 0580464200)  in the rear left wheel well of the car. I’ll be placing a “rubbish guard” over it. I don’t ever plan on driving in the rain, but you never know.
One of the most difficult parts of this is getting the accessory belts to clear the shift rod. Many hours spent on adjustments. I do think that the accessory belt on the Ford F150 is more horizontal than the mustang coyote, so it presents a little bit of a challenge on multiple levels, which I welcomed.  This is a gen 2 F150 motor for lots of reasons. Primarily I knew I could get a used one and feel good about the lifetime of the motor bc it’s rare you see farmers doing burnouts in their F150(leave that to me now😂). Secondarily, I knew I could play with it and if I lost steam on the build I wouldn’t feel so badly about spending $15k for just the motor….oh… and I limited myself to 400-450 hp bc we all know it’s easy get whisky throttle and I have kids I should watch graduate high school…and 3rd it has the same firing order as the 351C so I hope I can emulate that awesome Pantera sound with a modern(more reliable and lighter) platform.

I can thankfully now say it’s on the downhill.(I’m waiting for a computer from Holley still).

looking forward to hearing it run soon!

Looks great.  Can I contact you about any obstacles you encountered?  My build will be a bit different since there is already a "baby coyote" installed.  Thanks!!  Mike

Get rid of that red plastic hydraulic clutch line and replace with braided stainless before it fails and you lose the ability to release the clutch.

totally. I just ordered the parts to convert to -4an

Just ran the AC lines in the RR fender well. Very easy to do this and they rest on the frame ledge out of the way. I also got this cool header tank on Amazon. Gets mixed reviews, but looks cool👍🏼

You can put the A/C drier in the wheel well too!

@forestg all set! Here is the parts list for anyone who is looking to do the conversion. The only thing not listed is the male/male 4AN adapter I used to connect to the original copper line.

Well… attempted to bleed the clutch and was having some difficulty. The reason was, is that Earls adapter was leaking. I swapped out for the stock one and it was worse. Any tips are welcome. Maybe a higher quality adapter? The slave cylinder is new🥴.

I ordered this one. I think it will work better🤞🏼
https://valexracing.com/produc...BSWCIgjmw50eZlGgbki0

That worked! No leaks! Recently purchased the coil covers and a vinyl kit to inset flat black letters… took 2.5 hours to inset the letters😫. There has to be an easier way, but looks so good. Covers came originally black and then I painted them to match match the block. Happy Labor Day! Here are some car porn pics . So sexy…  I have to determine what I’m going to do with the rear deck lid. I have about an inch I would have to cut out of it to get the rear of the stack to clear.  It just seems painful because it is a beautiful deck lid. Maybe I  should get a fiberglass one? Thoughts?

Please strongly consider modifying a fiberglass decklid instead of a nearly irreplaceable steel decklid.

instead of just cutting notches for the stacks, a much cleaner look can be accomplished by trimming the entire edge a sufficient amount to clear the stacks.

The first time I saw this, I was scratching my head, wondering how he had managed to move the engine that far forward until I realized the stealth manner he had clearanced the decklid.

if you do cut the steel decklid, save the removed pieces in a clearly labeled and identified bag or box and do your best to see they are kept with the car for a future owner

Larry

@USCDOC13 - IMO, I agree with Larry above, keep the Metal Decklid Stock and get a Fiberglass one to cut up.  I know more cost, but I think it is the better way to go

@lf-tp2511 do you know where I would acquire a fiberglass deck lid?