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Thought I’d share some pics of the current progress that I have had with my 9yo son.

A big thanks to Corey Price for helping me on multiple levels with the build. Pantera Performance has been helpful as well providing CV joints (soon) and a wealth of knowledge; Quellas are so nice to talk to regarding specifics.

Been waiting on a Holley HP tuner for 2+mths… hoping for end of this month🤞🏼


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The engine looks good in your Pantera.  Getting me to think about an Coyote engine swap for my Pantera.  Can you share what motor mounts and all other hardware you needed to use for the swap and all of the obstacles you had with the engine swap or was it straight forward LOL.  Do you have to go with a cable shift linkage or keep the standard.  THanks,

There is a lot to it. On the list of difficulty, I’d rate it very high. Multiple changes need to be made, and multiple components purchased. It is a phone conversation vs a forum tutorial. I did consider doing a YouTube on it and may still, but I’m waiting on parts (one of the difficulties) and not complete. You can go with cable shift or CV’s. Either will work. I say Skip the cable shift bc the gate is awesome and is part of the personality of the car. U-joints vs CV’s don’t make much difference in my mind….arguably an improvement without taking personality away

Last edited by USCDOC13

I love the Borla intake with the TB's at an angle. The system works great too. The last time I was at Autotrend EFI in Diamond Springs, CA they had that exact setup on a Coyote in a 1950's Ford pickup street rod. The TB's were Cerakoted black and the manifold was gray. I should have taken pictures. Looked deadly and ran even better.

Last edited by davidnunn

Thought I’d give an update. Just mounted the new and improved Bosch 044 (sku 0580464200)  in the rear left wheel well of the car. I’ll be placing a “rubbish guard” over it. I don’t ever plan on driving in the rain, but you never know.
One of the most difficult parts of this is getting the accessory belts to clear the shift rod. Many hours spent on adjustments. I do think that the accessory belt on the Ford F150 is more horizontal than the mustang coyote, so it presents a little bit of a challenge on multiple levels, which I welcomed.  This is a gen 2 F150 motor for lots of reasons. Primarily I knew I could get a used one and feel good about the lifetime of the motor bc it’s rare you see farmers doing burnouts in their F150(leave that to me now😂). Secondarily, I knew I could play with it and if I lost steam on the build I wouldn’t feel so badly about spending $15k for just the motor….oh… and I limited myself to 400-450 hp bc we all know it’s easy get whisky throttle and I have kids I should watch graduate high school…

I can thankfully now say it’s on the downhill.(I’m waiting for a computer from Holley still).

looking forward to hearing it run soon!



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Last edited by USCDOC13

That worked! No leaks! Recently purchased the coil covers and a vinyl kit to inset flat black letters… took 2.5 hours to inset the letters😫. There has to be an easier way, but looks so good. Covers came originally black and then I painted them to match match the block. Happy Labor Day! Here are some car porn pics . So sexy…  I have to determine what I’m going to do with the rear deck lid. I have about an inch I would have to cut out of it to get the rear of the stack to clear.  It just seems painful because it is a beautiful deck lid. Maybe I  should get a fiberglass one? Thoughts?71530850441__A340A53E-FA0E-4B87-970C-864A74863283IMG_0894


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Last edited by USCDOC13

Please strongly consider modifying a fiberglass decklid instead of a nearly irreplaceable steel decklid.

instead of just cutting notches for the stacks, a much cleaner look can be accomplished by trimming the entire edge a sufficient amount to clear the stacks.

The first time I saw this, I was scratching my head, wondering how he had managed to move the engine that far forward until I realized the stealth manner he had clearanced the decklid.

if you do cut the steel decklid, save the removed pieces in a clearly labeled and identified bag or box and do your best to see they are kept with the car for a future owner


No first-hand knowledge, so no recommendations or certainty on who carries what.

P.I.M. motorsports, Jerry

Panteras by Wilkinson, Steve

pantera parts connection, Larry Stock.

there have been some small production, true carbon fiber panels being made for our cars, a search in these archives might provide some contact information.

Be aware, most of what you find being described as carbon fiber will just be a carbon fiber overlay on fiberglass pieces


A word of advice. Get some kind of guarantee as to the fit of the fiberglass deck lid. If PIM won’t give you one, cancel the order. I know of one Pantera owner that spent thousands of dollars in body shop time, just getting a fiberglass deck lid to fit. You’re probably assuming you could just paint it and bolt in on but I doubt it’s that simple.

Last edited by davidnunn

With a much lighter fiberglas deck lid, you'll need far softer decklid shocks to open it. Stock strength shocks might warp the thing over time. With some aftermarket decks, one shock (mounted on either side) will open the lid just fine. Also helps to clean up more engine bay clutter. The swap loos fine from the back- how does it drive?

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