@garth66 wow thanks! I’d love to try that unit. That would eliminate the hassle for sure and add another cool feature!
It’s likely too late in your “build” but you could delete the heater hoses from the front of the motor altogether. There are heater hose delete kits available for the Coyote. You would then need to have bungs installed in the main coolant tubing under the car; one in the tubing before the radiator and one in the tubing after the radiator. You would then install an electronic heater control valve between the heater core and the tubing after the radiator. For obvious reasons you would mount the valve outside of the passenger compartment. You wouldn’t need the shut-off valves anymore because none of the hoses inside the car are under pressure when the heater valve is closed. I’ve run this exact setup and found the heater worked just fine.
@lf-tp2511 posted:Pretty sure the Cadillac, Ford and the generic versions are not electric. I see no electrical contacts on any of them. I highly suspect the round device on them is a vacuum canister and it is engine vacuum that operates these valves
Larry
Good catch Larry! 
@davidnunn posted:It’s likely too late in your “build” but you could delete the heater hoses from the front of the motor altogether. There are heater hose delete kits available for the Coyote. You would then need to have bungs installed in the main coolant tubing under the car; one in the tubing before the radiator and one in the tubing after the radiator. You would then install an electronic heater control valve between the heater core and the tubing after the radiator. For obvious reasons you would mount the valve outside of the passenger compartment. You wouldn’t need the shut-off valves anymore because none of the hoses inside the car are under pressure when the heater valve is closed. I’ve run this exact setup and found the heater worked just fine.
Wow I like that idea. Not too late bc it’s winter time and I’ll be bored bc this thing is nearly complete. Just put the carpets and interior back together. Seats going in tomorrow, but it’s raining here so will have to wait for first drive until next weekend👍🏼
Anyone have any input on where they would recommend placing a vacuum pump? It’s pretty quiet on the bench. I have some ideas, but would like some wisdom before I start installing it. TIA!
I personally, after 20 years of ownership, uncounted, fun rallies, Monterey, and other events, have never seen a pantera with a vacuum pump.
last I knew I didn’t think your car was roadworthy. So what is motivating you to install a vacuum pump at this time?
Larry
@lf-tp2511 posted:I personally, after 20 years of ownership, uncounted, fun rallies, Monterey, and other events, have never seen a pantera with a vacuum pump.
last I knew I didn’t think your car was roadworthy. So what is motivating you to install a vacuum pump at this time?Larry
Car is road worthy👍🏼. Respectfully, have you seen a Pantera with a Gen 2 Coyote and an EFI Borla 8 stack in the last 20 years up close and personal? If you have and you recall whose it was, they may have some in-site. I have a port in the stack for the vacuum, but it may affect my performance/not be enough vacuum.
Car has been remotely tuned, interior back together, everything is ready to road test, but I’m told the Coyote’s with 8 stacks are notorious for lacking enough vacuum for the breaks… I’d rather be proactive about it.
things left.
1. Vacuum situation(I like power breaks)
2. cut decklid for cylinders 4/8 stacks so I can place airhorns back on
3. Modern wheels and tires
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I ran an electric vacuum pump and it worked fine. I used one that was designed for electric cars, to generate vacuum for a brake booster. I mounted it on a fabricated bracket just behind the driver's side headlamp. With the shield in place it was completely hidden. There's lots of room for one up there and you'll never hear it.
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@davidnunn posted:I ran an electric vacuum pump and it worked fine. I used one that was designed for electric cars, to generate vacuum for a brake booster. I mounted it on a fabricated bracket just behind the driver's side headlamp. With the shield in place it was completely hidden. There's lots of room for one up there and you'll never hear it.
Hey thanks David. Do you remember the brand that you used? Seems like there are a lot of options for these things. I ordered one that had auto slow and maintain function, but it looks a little bit bigger than yours so I may have to return it and get one smaller like yours. I can almost read the brand in the pictures, but want to make sure I get the right one☺️
The reason for using an electric pump to supply vacuum for the brake booster in a fuel injected car is; the convenient source of engine generated vacuum also happens to be where the EFI's MAP sensor gets its signal from. Apparently, in some situations, the vacuum being supplied to the booster can interfere with the MAP sensor's readings. Many OEM's are using such electric vacuum pumps now, even with gasoline engines.
This is the pump I used: https://eveurope.eu/en/product...e2-vacuum-pump-used/ ;however, I couldn't find a current source of new ones. If I recall, it was just under $400. Companies like Hella and Bosch make similar units. Just buy one that's designed specifically for the application. Aftermarket EV parts suppliers all have them, as do Summit and Jeg's. Less expensive pumps simply run the entire time the engine is running whereas better ones have a vacuum switch that turns the pump on and off as needed.
David,
Do you have pictures of the connection at the booster?
The previous mention of the electric, four port heater valve linked to sources for the valve, but without any method to control that valve.
there is a valve sold by old air products that includes the necessary controls. I previously used one of these units and it performed fine for me.
Larry
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@lf-tp2511 posted:The previous mention of the electric, four port heater valve linked to sources for the valve, but without any method to control that valve.
there is a valve sold by old air products that includes the necessary controls. I previously used one of these units and it performed fine for me.
Larry
Awesome thanks Larry
Put 40 miles on Pamela last Friday. The sound is next level cool. Had a few water leaks and lost 2nd gear bc of shifter linkage. Shifting resolved with some adjustments to the linkage and trunnion. Water leaks solved by removing the Hpipe and going to a single manual 4 way valve. I like the idea of the electronic valve, but will likely never need heat. 
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Very cool. Nice that you can enjoy all of your hard work now.
JW
@lf-tp2511 posted:The previous mention of the electric, four port heater valve linked to sources for the valve, but without any method to control that valve.
there is a valve sold by old air products that includes the necessary controls. I previously used one of these units and it performed fine for me.
Larry
FWIW, Thermotion sells a controller for the valve, but it costs another $69, so the Old Air Parts link Larry provided is a much better value.
240 miles on new build. It is next level fun. Got a tune revision and seemed to help a lot too. Added a custom grill to the back: I wanted a little exposure so you can see the emblem on the 8 stack with decklid down. Super happy. Got the grill from https://www.customcargrills.com they have lots of options. I’d like to replace the others around the car now to match(the frames are the hardest part bc they spot welded the mesh in everywhere. 
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could you post some pics of the engine cover off. Did "custom grill" fab a bolt on or did you have to form the sheet mesh?
Love the look and the thought of the other grills matching is awsome.
I would like to do a similar.
Looks Awesome.
@jfb05177 posted:could you post some pics of the engine cover off. Did "custom grill" fab a bolt on or did you have to form the sheet mesh?
Love the look and the thought of the other grills matching is awsome.
I would like to do a similar.
The sheet metal comes already perforated and in multiple sizes that you have to cut. It is aluminum, so it is easy to bend, but it is easy to bend wrong. Very helpful to have a large brake and shear and some other tools. It only took about 2 1/2 hours, but I did make it in an aircraft mechanic shop