Photo Blog: Coyote Engine Swap (5.0 liter DOHC Ford V8, naturally aspirated, 412+ BHP).

Here's a pic of the motor with a 3 deg. nose down attitude. The heads are close to touching but still with a hair of clearance 1/16 inch?

3 deg. is way more than you would want but I think neutral to 1.5 deg and you would still have adequate clearance to the inner fenders.

BY THE WAY I have No oil pan on this block so that has yet to be figured in.

Intake options will be tough.

Here is a Boss intake. Stands much taller than I thought it would.

Another angle

Good point that I can't answer. Big, wide, tall engine that's heavy for its stock displacement! I would do whatever it takes to get that thing down as far as the frame would accept. Swap-shops cut and build box-reliefs into the back edge of Pantera inner rear fender wells for head clearance, and saw off unused lugs etc from heads where they interfere. This is needed especially for post-'80s Panteras because their square-edge inner fender panels seem a little larger than the smooth stamped ones used in '71-76 Panteras. I know of one GT5-S that needed boxes done for a pro 4.6 mod-motor conversion 15 years ago. Most of the extra tire/wheel width in wide-body cars is outboard so there is some room to do this. Changing plugs is easier than on a 351-C!

Good points BossWrench.

I'm leaning towards notching the inner fenders and lowering the Motor/Trany

But......... I still have a lot of details to work out.

Turn the ZF upside down like in the Mangusta.

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
Turn the ZF upside down like in the Mangusta.

^^I like the way this guy thinks.

Looks like my dimensions I extrapolated from the other car into the Pantera were pretty close based on your intake pictures.

Thanks for posting all of these pictures.

The real fit issues, (I.M.O.) are at the front at the firewall. If you want to start exploring this then you can learn a lot with just the block and the front cover.

I've cut the firewall so that it's symmetrical.
Extends as far on the drivers side as the passengers side. I have not changed the passenger side just the drivers.

In this picture the engine is nose down about 1 Degree. I think I can avoid notching the top of the firewall if I set it at 1.5 Deg Down. It will be very close so....not holding my breath.

Canton has the only front sump oil pan that I have found so far. I will have it Friday to check for clearance.

I will probably need to notch it to fit between the frame rails. I will know for sure shortly.
$370. from Summit. PT# 15-738

You could have them make a pan to fit the chassis. That one there is a mustang style. Those tanks will not fit between the frame rails.
All it entails is mating the Pantera 10qt pan to the Coyotte flange. Why dont you call them? They may have already done one for a customer?
Its going to be cheaper than cutting up that pan, making it fit, then sending it out to be coated?

Having used both the Canton and the Aviaid pans, my observation is that the finished product of the Canton is noticeably better on the Canton. It is also less expensive.

Given the choice between the two. I would take the Canton. There is no difference in the engineering designs of the pans.

The Armondo is the most expensive now. Higher cost of living on the border in Texas I guess? More ammo needed? Have to ask Perry about that?

Yep too tight.

Going to trim the "T" and add rear section to make it 9-10 QT

At 12" wide this pan is too wide. In this picture it is trimmed down to 10.5" wide. Also with it being as far forward as it is it will contact the emergency brake cables when the engine is dropped to its final position.

I have no idea if the Coyote is capable of this, but is a dry sump an option for this motor? That would get rid of most of the depth you are fighting -- but again, I have no idea if this has any chance of working.

Best of luck!!!!

I know this is probably pretty expensive, but here is information on a dry sump setup. Don't have experience with this setup at all, so I can't talk about it, but it is at least a start:

Ford Modular Dry Sump


Best of luck!!!!!

You might want to check out this blog
http://johnspantera.blogspot.c...4_03_01_archive.html

or perhaps contact Dan Schoneck who put a Coyote in a Pantera back in 2012. www.schoneckcomposites.com

The Coyote can be dry sumped but would require modification/removal of the stock oil pump.The remote filter adapters would work nicely for inlet feed. I plan to swap the dry sump system off of my old motor onto the Coyote. I am debating cnc machining a dry sump pan to suit my needs. The pan is very tight to the frame rails and may not allow typical side exit sump pickups. As far as I know Dan never finished his swap. I know he was selling parts from it. Not sure exactly what happened.

Motor has arrived Let the fun begin.

I'll get a fully dressed weight on this thing soon.

Very cool!

Flipping the intake 180 deg.

Thus far this is looking pretty easy to do.

There are a couple of minor modifications to do.

There are 2 tabs at the back of the manifold. They are just points to zip tie the wiring harness to. Clip them off. Also there are 2 alignment dowels molded into the bottom of the intake. Clip them off and trim flush. I also found it necessary to take a disk grinder to an area that was contacting the 90 deg. water neck. just a 1/32 trim. There should still be ample plastic wall thickness.