Current options for replacement stock position condenser fan?

Pro Comp was a Chinese brand that changed their name to Speedmaster.

Search eBay for 10 inch fan and you will see what appears to be the same item. Also available at Summit and jegs

Larry

...I wired this into the Cond. fan circuit, it blows outward. This cools the Engine Oil After Filtering, and Drops the Temperature 40F+ degrees when I need it too. From above 250F (the limit for the gauge), down to 227F. And Most Importantly...this set-up, Can Cool the Oil while the Pantera is at a Standstill, with the Engine Running.

You can find these Fans on Ebay. Search '12V Radiator Fans'...there are 1000's. Yes! You Want the 'Serpentine' Blades as they are More Quiet (just as Submarine Propellers) and They Move More Air!

NO AC in this car.

The wire going down to the Side Filler Plug, is for the Transaxle Oil Temp Sender, Replacing the Plug. It connects to a Digital Temp Gauge that is Switched and Shared with the Engine Oil Temp Sender located in the Twin Filter Mount (before Cooling). They Share a single digital gauge. One must take pains to ensure the sender receives a Proper Ground. I ran a Dedicated Ground wire to each. Have a Cooler, Filter and Pump all set up for the Transaxle. Doesn't need it, as it never gets over 190F. Save it for the Racecar.

Good-Luck with Your AC Condenser

MJ

The only fan 10" fan I could find with three mounting points was this one:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com...-10-Inch,412970.html

It arrived today and since I had to remove the blade assembly to modify the guard, I promptly destroyed it by not realizing the bolt holding the blade was reverse-threaded.
Note that the bolt circle on this fan is smaller than the stock fan so I would have needed to make some short bracktets to hold it.
So I said screw it, I'll run the stock fan. While re-installing the stock fan, it slipped and cracked one of the blades.
So that's how my morning has gone.

This can be tricky since there's two different shrouds for Panteras. The early one is much larger but I think the condenser inside is the same. It also takes a different trunk insert with a bigger, removable rear bulge. You've avoided the problem altogether by not using a fan shroud.

Note- to use the huge swirl of air passing over the rear of the car that at certain speeds presses right up against the rear bumper, DeTomaso arranged the AC condenser to suck air from the outside, thru the condenser and blow against the sloping rear surface of the trunk insert. The exhausted hot air then get deflected down toward the pavement in a loop and avoids being sucked into the AC unit again for a second pass. Running without a trunk insert probably degrades the AC output, and reversing the condenser fan direction definitely does so..

Thanks Jack, I was actually planning on using the original shroud and adapting a new fan to fit it. Are you suggesting it's OK (good?) to mount he fan directly on the condenser? That would probably make life easier...

Or I just get a new OEM fan blade.

I never measured the air flow in thru a rear condenser- I have an anemometer for airflow checks on the engine radiator, but I moved my AC to the front before getting around to checking the flow. I'm told the main problem with close-coupling a fan and a radiator is setting the blades too close to the fins. So the answer is, I dunno. You'll have to check your rig for satisfactory operation.

I may have an excellent solution!
I ordered one of these as a last try before I revert to stock:

https://www.mishimoto.com/race...igh-flow-fan-10.html
Fits perfectly in in the hole and the height is perfect. All I have to do is drill 4 holes and make some mounting posts.
I'll post my progress.
Air flow throw this thing is ridiculous.

That’s how I did it. To be honest, I’m not sure how much of an upgrade this is, from a CFM of air movement standpoint. Just look at the size of the OEM motor and the pitch of the blades.

That looks super clean David!
In my super-unscientific testing, I can say that the stock fan running in my hand was actually pretty impressive. Then the Mishimoto fan running in my hand scared the shit out of me and I had to shut it down before it flew across the room.
Made some good progress today making angled bushings to bolt the new fan to the shroud. Pictures soon.

ditto.. that is very nicely done.  congrats!!

I like the:

~ I had to shut it down before it flew across the room!~

David - The braided Air conditioning lines look fantastic!  Is the wiring hidden?

David - very clean installation! Where did you get the lines from?

What did you use for your engine compartment paint? Gloss level? Any more pics?? Thanks

Percy,

The A/C hoses are Aeroquip A/C hose and fittings. Here's a different angle where the wiring is visible.

Rob,

The engine compartment paint is SEM satin black trim paint, sprayed from a gun. It's tough and flexible. It's also available in spray cans for touch-ups. 

I hesitate to post mine after David's but it is certainly an improvement over what I had before. I painted the shroud with VHT wrinkle paint.
Off to A/C shop tomorrow for $300 of R12 that I hope stays in there forever.

Spent the morning at the A/C shop. Verified all my connections using an R12 sniffer and found a couple that needed to be tightened a bit. Filled it, ran it, went to 10 degrees below zero during shakedown. Everything working flawlessly. Hopefully I'm done.

10° below zero???

now that’s funny. But not possible

Larry

David

It looks like you filled all of the spot weld dimples which really helps to make the bay visually cohesive?

I tossed up on doing this as if the spot welds are visible at least someone can see the back end has not been damaged in the past, and it is the original panels.

But without doing it the bay will never look as good as this.

Man that is so clean!

Larry's right of course. That reading was from a handheld laser pointer temp gauge pointing at the vent. Must have confused it. I did just go for a little drive and am getting 32 degrees out of the vents (using an actual thermometer).