I just installed mine. When I turned the lights on I noticed some strangeness:
Anyone else notice this?
It looks normal when the lights are off:
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I would just call Tara and ask her if this condition indicates something is wrong with the unit you received.
I am quite sure what they sell is a refaced voltmeter, in this case a “battery indicator”
perhaps the old face was inadvertently left in the housing when they installed the Veglia style face?
it appears you may have upgraded to brighter LED bulbs. I wonder if they are causing something not normally seen - not sufficiently illuminated - to become visible?
good luck,
Larry
I upgraded to Pantera Electronics LED lights and have the same gauge from Hall but I’m not seeing the reversed writing that you’re getting. would definitely give Tara a call.
The gauge looks great with the lights off but it is set up to light a little different than the stock gauges so it doesn’t match 100% at night. I’m going to mess with it until I get it right where I want it.
It’s still a million times better than running an amp gauge.
I emailed them a picture asking if it's normal.
Agreed, they don't light up the same. I have Pantera Electronics LED bulb replacements and it helps but I guess it also highlights the issue.
Sorry to bother you but may I ask the source of the three new gauges ? I am interested in doing something similar on mine.
I take it the full range gauges would be mechanical and the part range gauges would have electrical connections. This seems to be the normal pattern.
On that basis is there a direct pressure line in for the vacuum gauge ? Is the takeoff near the brake booster ?
And finally where did you put the sender unit for the oil temperature and finally , type?
Thanks !
on the vacuum take off point I am interested as well..
Hi @Percy,
The clock is the Autometer Cobra line:
https://www.summitracing.com/s.../gauges?fr=part-type
Oil temp and vacuum are VDO Series 1:
https://www.summitracing.com/s.../gauges?fr=part-type.
Yes, generally the full sweep gauges are mechanical (which I prefer) but I couldn't find a good place to pass through the very large sender for oil temp. My pan is a 10 quart from Pantera Performance and it has a 1/2" NPT port at the front of it.
For vacuum, I tapped into the feed to the brake booster. I'm actually running a vacuum reservoir in place of my wiper bottle so I had plumbing to do up there anyway.
Attachments
Tara got back to me and is sending me another one. She reached out to the manufacturer and was told that it looks like they forgot to "paint the back" of that one.
Hi John
Good result and service from Tara!
Thanks so much for the connection shots - most appreciated
I have the same gauge and Jons LEDs but when I went to check it for shadowing the LED looks like the LED has fallen out again. Some silastic coming up when I pull out the dash in the next month or so for the final part of the rebuild, to keep the LED in its slot.
I am rapidly understanding the desire to add a vacuum reservoir. (Although my genuine Lucas - Prince of Darkness rear lid squirter would be hard feature to give up....!)
I would only score my fully rebuilt brakes a 4 or 5 out of 10 for performance but they are still bedding in and I am mentally comparing them to modern AMG brakes with all the bells and whistles. So I have to be a bit tolerant.
Is that a non return valve on the join on the vacuum hose from the engine ?
Rear lid squirter!
>Is that a non return valve on the join on the vacuum hose from the engine ?
Nope, just a plain old T (1/4 NPT Male - 1/4 NTP Male - 1/4 NTP Female). There is a check valve on the reservoir though, just out of frame. If you or anyone needs the NTP to barb fittings, I have a bunch left over.
This is the reservoir I used:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1464
It was pointed out that I don't really need a reservoir with my set up but I like having it.