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I would just call Tara and ask her if this condition indicates something is wrong with the unit you received.

I am quite sure what they sell is a refaced voltmeter, in this case a “battery indicator”

perhaps the old face was inadvertently left in the housing when they installed the Veglia style face?

it appears you may have upgraded to brighter LED bulbs. I wonder if they are causing something not normally seen - not sufficiently illuminated -  to become visible?

good luck,


I upgraded to Pantera Electronics LED lights and have the same gauge from Hall but I’m not seeing the reversed writing that you’re getting.  would definitely give Tara a call.

The gauge looks great with the lights off but it is set up to light a little different than the stock gauges so it doesn’t match 100% at night. I’m going to mess with it until I get it right where I want it.

It’s still a million times better than running an amp gauge.  

Sorry to bother you but may I ask the source of the three new gauges ? I am interested in doing something similar on mine.

I take it the full range gauges would be mechanical and the part range gauges would have electrical connections. This seems to be the normal pattern.

On that basis is there a direct pressure line in for the vacuum gauge ? Is the takeoff near the brake booster ?

And finally where did you put the sender unit for the oil temperature and finally , type?

Thanks !

Hi @Percy,
The clock is the Autometer Cobra line:

Oil temp and vacuum are VDO Series 1:

Yes, generally the full sweep gauges are mechanical (which I prefer) but I couldn't find a good place to pass through the very large sender for oil temp. My pan is a 10 quart from Pantera Performance and it has a 1/2" NPT port at the front of it.

For vacuum, I tapped into the feed to the brake booster. I'm actually running a vacuum reservoir in place of my wiper bottle so I had plumbing to do up there anyway.


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Hi John

Good result and service from  Tara!

Thanks so much for the connection shots - most appreciated

I have the same gauge and Jons LEDs but when I went to check it for shadowing the LED looks like the LED  has fallen out again. Some silastic coming up when I pull out  the dash in the next month or so for the final part of the rebuild, to keep the LED  in its slot.

I am rapidly understanding the desire to add a vacuum reservoir. (Although my genuine Lucas - Prince of Darkness rear lid squirter would be hard feature to give up....!)

I would only score my fully rebuilt brakes a 4 or 5 out of 10 for performance but they are still bedding in and I am mentally comparing them to modern AMG brakes with all the bells and whistles. So I have to be a bit tolerant.

Is that a non return valve on the join on the vacuum hose from the engine ?

Rear lid squirter!

>Is that a non return valve on the join on the vacuum hose from the engine ?

Nope, just a plain old T (1/4 NPT Male - 1/4 NTP Male - 1/4 NTP Female). There is a check valve on the reservoir though, just out of frame. If you or anyone needs the NTP to barb fittings, I have a bunch left over.

This is the reservoir I used:
It was pointed out that I don't really need a reservoir with my set up but I like having it.

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