Driving 5177

Lookin’ good, Joe!

(Can’t find that article on my phone, but I’ll keep looking!)

Just keep driving!!!  It's what these cars were made for and do best!

trying to figure out how to take and edit vid.    don't know why out of focus.

cold start   https://youtu.be/mMZrxXaltxY

I discovered a driving idiosyncrasy I don't recall hearing before.

when I released the clutch, the toe of my shoe was "grabbed"

does my steering knuckle look like it is the the right place.   This is a new piece.  any comment about brake pedal.

500 miles today!   no trips just loops around neighborhood.

the plan is, make notes of what needs to be changed, then back to shop after first of the year.

i am having dexterity problems and finding first is a challange for me.   i took a cabinet hinge and made a reverse lockout.   WHAT a differance to be able to push to left and pull down.  I now don't have to hold clutch down at stop light.

THANKS to ebay's "barbaram442"  i now have a working lap and a set of 72 shoulder belts.   i used a7/16-20 x 1" bolt for anchoring shoulder belt.

those belts are a pain.   lap belt "locks" and keeps tighting and can't pull out till full retract.   the shoulder has to be hooked in lap before buckling

Question . . . I have a new radiator and pusher fans (unknow vendor).   the  sealing panels ( 53 & 54) were left off.    How important would you think they are, especially 54, preventing frontal air going around radiator.   I didn't see the tabs on the new radiator and area looks conjested where they would fit

Hey John!  Glad you got your car back.  !  Is is overheating?  The air deflectors made a difference with the stock radiator at road speeds.  I struggled with overheat problems for 10 years before we figured that the orifice under the thermostate was too big and never would stop off the bypass.   I see your brake pedal and I cut the bottom corner off mine and it cost nothing and makes a huge difference when driving!

You can make simple deflectors, I actually used foam pipe insulation and just blocked off the areas  above where air could get around my rear condensor mount. You can see the sides are simple thin   aluminum sheet I bent and fit tight,

My clutch foot toe will also get grabbed. This is when you need your smooth sided Italian loafers!    If you take my reccomendation and cut your brake pedal corner off, you will immediatly notice more footroom. I want to add this modification to the 20 best mods for under 20 bucks.

Thanks for the "experiances" lessons learned !

the driving tecnique and muscle memory going from one car to another got me.   I hopped in the TR6 to run to town for gas (and keep battery up) and almost wrecked aproaching stop sign,   all THREE pedals responded different.

as for brake pedal, the fact that it was lower than throttle.   (opposite on TR6).    I think I have a tecnique that will work good as I continue to use it,   that is keep the right heel on floor and "turn" foot from throttle to the lower brake, using between toes and ball.

sort of same thing with clutch, keep the heel on floor (inline with clutch) then raise slightly to use between toes and ball, instead of arch.  

both of those have me thinking about a "heel rest".    shaped something like wall mounted bottle opener!

I have not removed tube to even look at the AC condensor and its sealing for air flow.    (I had wanted the "L" trunk profile made like earlier car for more air exit flow, but didn't want to delay in driving)

"I" think the side shields are needed but didn't want to be more "picky" for taking care of any items noted during my driving.

With the car moving, I did have one segment where I "thought" the radiator temp was not dropping and the fans stayed on.   that was based on battery voltage stayed low at speed.    I have three points in coolant system for measuring temp.   the Holley Sniper sensor and display are at the block position, the console gauge and its sensor in the water pump inlet (radiator return) and the idiot light switch in swirl tank (can't recall its setting) and the coolant fan swith in the radiator exit upper side tank (i also don't know its setting but think I reqest about 160"

Most times at road speed sniper temp is 185 to 190 with console gauge abot 170 (just right of 160 mark).   I have very little time in stop and go traffic, temps do go up.   have not been there to see if temps level out above 200F.   (currently running 7psi cap (on pump suction).   Shutting down HOT after slow roll down drive, there has not had gurggling as coolant temp rises during heat soak.

another question. . .

When tighten shift linkage lock nuts, holding Gate in center L/R in 2 / 3 path is done, BUT how do one hold the trans shifter shaft?    ( In my long ago thinking bouts, I drew up a radial fine adjustment "clutch")

My brake pedal sits higher than the gas pedal. I would check the pedal stop screw and booster rod to see what can be adjusted.

#24 screws into #18 and is the pedal stop.

My brake pedal is also higher than the accelerator. This is why cutting the corner off the bottom right of the brake pedal helps get your foot off the gas and ON the brake.  I actually think I would prefer the gas pedal to be higher though.

the brake being lower does seem to be nice.  off throttle, turn foot and press down to contact brakes.   i'll think more about adding brake pedal to list of things to change now i know it is not the norm.

beautiful day, and with shift linkage still not right, instead of a drive I tried to take a couple pics.

question . . . can the shifter's gated plate be removed, or does it hold something together?

after last week's adjustment of the turn buckle, the as left was not really that good, but all gears could be selected.   after hour drive, i am not able to select fourth and fifth takes about as much force as i want to use.  definately feel the shifter and gear box detents are not aligned.   not sure if the "new" linkage has hysteresis/clearance issue.

thinking if i loosen / remove gate i can ignore the shifter detent and at least drive some more.

another question. . .

When tighten shift linkage turnbuckle lock nuts, holding Gate in center L/R in 2 / 3 path is done, BUT how does one hold the gearbox shifter shaft?

do the lock nuts need to be gorilla tight or just good enough

Yes, the gate  plate can be removed, as can the rubber seal. They don't hold anything in place. Bolts need to be tight. I've had mine slip.

Have you had someone watch the linkage as you go through the gears to ensure you don't have interference issues?

THANKS.....

i would recomend to some one new to adjusting linkage to drive with OUT the gate first!   that way, one feels how it should be (or the best it can be if damages have already occurred)

I have a shifter plate that have the gates machined off.  Intended for “spirited driving”.

Easy to swap back and forth between styles….

Information Removed for Disinterest.

Information Removed for Disinterest.

photos, Reverse, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 In That Order. The Plate Opening is 2.100" Wide X 3.860" Long.

...Information Removed for Disinterest.

MJ

@lastpushbutton posted:

My brake pedal is also higher than the accelerator. This is why cutting the corner off the bottom right of the brake pedal helps get your foot off the gas and ON the brake.  I actually think I would prefer the gas pedal to be higher though.

There is a restrictor bracket on the accelerator pedal shaft. I am not sure why it is needed but if you remove it you can readjust the gas pedal to be higher.

Clipping the corner on the brake does help for foot room. I did that to mine also.

i think i need a blue and white, instead of "john deere" wind sock

on the streets,

out for dinner at one of my normal places.

I took the TR6 out to keep battery up,   I found my self sitting side ways and weird having to actually move foot to left for brakes

Your car looks great! Great that you were able to stick with it. 7146 is just about to emerge from a 22 year "hiatus" - just in time for the snow to fly...

Ed

the weather was suppose to be rainy, but just cloudy and misty.   I thought that would be good lighting to take some pics.   (then took an hour drive!)

the dash was original covering, but from another since mine got "lost".   the rocker wiper & washer switches were move to gauge console.   the emergancy flasher switch moved to the dash illumination rehost position.  the light between speedo & tach is now a two color LED that provides warning of "low oil press" as blue and "high coolant temp" as red.   the small display on right for the Holley Sniper fuel injetion.   the left is Garmin 55.  steering wheel is Nardi that was when I got car.   the heat / ac controls, the lower lever is conected to double swith, center off, left turns on AC compressor and right opens heater solinoid  valve

side / front / rear views

corner views

some of the details i wanted

replace the "L" bumpers with bright bumperettes and the alignment of those with the hood gap, 

another the fitment and angle of the front spoiler.

(i am thinking . . . putting a wood "skid" under the recovery hooks, 1/2 X 3" oak)  ???

AND the exhaust tips !

the tire lettering , the valve stems and center logo all were indexed.

a challange was my desire to have an original air filter housing fit under the engine screen and not tilted.  my fiberglass tube had been shorten (for as purchase turbo installation).   But it gives a good view of engine.

my center engine screen had a little rust on the end strips so They got a New one from one of the vendors.   I don't know which one.   Does this look like something that maybe came on an earlier car.   that is the solid section is just tack welded to the screen !   looks cheap to me, (but it sure wasn't).   the gloss paint has dust stuck to it.

All looks like pretty skillful, detail oriented treatment, Joe!  Hope you are enjoying your rides!

first oil change...

they did four changes in the other lane while 5177 was there.   they were very careful and did a great job,   over coming obsticles like oil breather where to add oil removal was restricted by the swirl tank and valve cover baffled requiring slow pouring

You are a very brave man! I wouldn’t let a fast lube joint work on my lawnmower! A friend of mine had a repair shop and was always fixing stripped drain bolts, oil filters falling off, etc from these places.

I just noticed the “we are hiring” sign. Oh dear….

not a lot of shops in the area.   the local car guy that told me he used this shop also told me to only let the owner do it.   prior visit to discuss, the owner even told me to only let him!   And he did every thing related to the car.

Sounds good then!! Nice Pantera!

I believe that the engine screen is a reproduction of the standard "L" model cover that is reproduced by Steve Wilkinson.

Ron

delemma ? question . . .

I have a tire (right/front) with a slow leak, less than 2 psi day.

given I am "aware" now, would you top off pressure daily and drive.   (or bite the bullet and take tire to a shop while car is in the shed). 

drive now and let restoration shop correct when car goes back in Jan/Feb.   (or just let car stay garage till then )

spent long time, from different angles and don't see any thing in thread and the nut for valve stem is tight.

Maybe put some soapy water in a spray bottle and spray the valve stem then look for bubbles.  If the leak is not there then keep spraying until you find the leak.

THANKS. . . (i should have thought of that)

my suspession and first place I tried  .  the valve stem.

notice the long stream of bubbles that quickly appeared.   loosen first then snugged back.   the quick bubbling ceased.   (might be very slow foaming around threads though)

Here are photos of Wilkinson's engine screen.  It has nice powder coat paint and no dust.  The second photo is the bottom side.

I can't see the details of the transition from screen to solid, however from what I do see, that is made the way one on 5177.

My comment about dust is my path is very dusty and a gently spray of water did not rinse my screen and I was making excuse why mine was not clean.  proably static or maybe residue vapor from new engine.   thinking I will need a "mop" to wash it.

any ideal on a torque value for the valve stems.   I noticed at autozone, the package stated about 30 to 40.   where I think I only went to 15 INCH*lbs.

edit  . . . thoughts on wheel valve stem torque.   the instructions gave tighten value with no air pressure in tire.   I'm thinking air pressure would compress the rubber seal more and thus the stem nut would loosen, so maybe lower torque is expected and should be used?

preparing for changing ZF gear lube.   I forgot about this, My fill plug was drilled / tap for temp sender.   what would the specs to order a replacement plug?

Your fill plug is still good as is.  You can make it nicer by removing the sensor and installing a recessed hex plug.  If you want a new fill plug it is best to go to a Pantera vendor.  

Here is an example hex plug for $4 that could fill the hole where the sensor is.  I am not sure about the size you need but here is 3/8".  You might need smaller.  If you go this route be sure to put sealant on the plug threads.

https://www.autozone.com/fitti...BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

It looks like the original fill plug is still in the ZF, and that it was drilled and taped (in the recess for the hex) for the smaller diameter pipe thread.  

John

duh . . . putting a plug in lieu of the sender.   (why didn't I think)

I search my folder with ZF notes from info gathered over the years (mainly from here) and I think the plug is M24X1.5 with 17m hex

I seem to recall that the plug is M22-1.5, but I would need to verify.  You are correct that the hex is 17mm.

John

Is that going to work (as a sender)?

How do you fill the case to a level high enough to submerge the sender element if that is the fill hole?

Just wondering…

Rocky

that was part of that massive cluster.   It was on car when I bought it.   I am not going to use the sensor.

May be Hot fluid "swell" and just casing temp.   Also had bunges in engine oil pan,but they were removed  and welded over.   Forgot about this one, just noticed as I was looking to have gear oil changed.

@jfb05177 posted:

the heat / ac controls, the lower lever is connected to double switch, center off, left turns on AC compressor and right opens heater solenoid  valve.

Great innovation!  How did you connect the lower HVAC lever to open the heater solenoid valve?

A list of parts/part #'s please!  I'd like to do the same with my car.

Thanks!

I got vary little info on how things were done (  and they prevent car owners from talking to techs, a dollar per hours thing)

I saw invoice for a push pull windshield wiper. .not sure .   it is a swith with center doing nothing, lever ti left turns on compreesor,   to the right opens electic soilold  valve for heat.   But no way to modulate.   so far not been warm enough to test ac for comfort.   for the heater, once chill is knock out, cutting heater off, just running fan and engine keeps you warm

Now.    I know it would happen ....but not this soon....darn squirel ! broke right side front spoiler from valance.   had to ease back home with it a flapping

also didn't realize how fragile the spoiler would be.   any comments on how to repair and make better.    If I get new, still need a way to make better (holes very close to edge)

That appears to be a spoiler from Pantera Performance Center.  They are held on by small bolts.  Personally, I would be concerned about bending your body sheet metal if you hit something bigger with it.  I would dump it.

Yes, from PPC (but they don't have any)

here is pic of the front jacking plate added  (came in handy).   the yellow steel plate with hole to accept tire jack.

there was a car show in home town today.   32F and overcast.

Leaving home at sunrise.

I   was parked in the shade.   it was Cold.   talked the entire 7 hours.  in fact, I was talking when my name was called so I don;t know what the throphy was for.  about 140 cars of all types.

yes, PPC is out of them and no definite plans to get them back in stock.

They are made out of ABS plastic and if you want to strengthen/splint the, I would suggest locating some ABS sheet plastic and grabbing some ABS glue at your local hardware store. Glued onto the backside of the spoiler the splints will be invisible  

it looks like you may have torn one of the bolt holes. ABS will bend easily with a heat gun to create a splint for the lost hole.

Larry

And yes the last batch from Dennis was trimmed much too short and mounting them was a real pain.

I took my ABS sheet plastic and fabricated mounting tabs, attached them with ABS glue, and then reinforced with Plast-aid.

I also used larger bolts than supplied by Dennis and installed Nutserts for a more professional installation.

Larry

I got one with the trimmed too short lip.   putting on tabs at the hole is my plan.

good thought about the insert.  I'll look for available insert sizes

question.   were the holes  pre-drilled in the spoiler?

I love the look of that flat blade spoiler, and have received many comments on it over the years. But mounting has always been a challenge.

it does not come with any indication of where the holes should be. Dennis supplies 10-32 nuts and bolts but I’ve never mounted it in that matter. Prior to the Nutserts I used self drilling sheet metal screws.

Larry

I  believe the right side muffler has baffle rattle.

Oh, well.   What was done is done.

First, I wanted to show my kit I gathered for changing trans axle fluid.

The 17mm VW oil plug socket and a ratcheting wrench worked great.   Using 5/8 vynal tubing and a plastic elbow I made the funnel.  For the fill plug with temp sensor, I just got a new plug

To drain, I just used the tire scissor jack to  reach bottom plug. 

This was the First concerning finding.   The magnetic plug was FULL!

After draining, cleaning plug and refilling with about 3 ½ QUARTS, the amount in the pan look less, so I filled the emptied bottles and discovered only drained out less than 3 PINTS.!!!

The car had been over 2000 miles mostly under 60 mph.   I now hear a “gear whine” that is more noticeable that exhaust roar at 70 mph light throttle.   Coasting or some throttle reduces the whine.

More concerning to me would be the blackness of the gear oil.  When was the last time you changed it?   I would drive it a bit and change it again if it is that black.   What grade of oil did you use - I can't read it on the container.  Not synthetic is it?

I provided PennGrade Classic GL-4 80W90.   I KNOW that is what in used.

the ZF had been in barn storage for 3 decades with oil in it.

Ron Mccall rebuilt 4/16 and it remained in warehouse storage till mated to engine couple years ago.  first  test driving 12/23

there was no bad smell when drained.   hard to tell new from used, the new has a blue tint.

I am surprised how dark the new stuff looks.  Castrol is much lighter and clearer even after a year of use.

That PennGrade stuff has a strong greenish cast.

Who did initial fill?

Ron ships transmissions dry.

after smell test, color test, maybe it's ok and the mush on magnet was rust after rebuilt it as it sat for years.

I plan to drain after 2000 miles.

and, is gear whine just normal?

I made changes to my dash layout.

the Sniper display was originally taped beside the ac duct.   using ABS sheet, I fabbed a small pod that put it between the speedo and tach.

I took the front bumper emblem and mounted it in a horn button replacing the Nardi button

and a dash clock/stopwatch taped left of steering wheel

Great drive today.   trip on twisty two lane for late lunch.   even though a NC highway, very little traffic.   approx 120 miles round trip  (NC27 Benson to Carthage "Pic N Pig")

Drive the heck out of it, Joe!

It’s your dream car!

21 feburary, 2024. . . 5177 took a trip back to Klassic Kars, for some Warrenty corrections.   Mainly electrical, larger alternator, brighter dash lights, & turn signal switch.   Mecnically, the rear suspension was raised,  rekeyed all locks, the ABS front spoiler repaired and radiator side deflectors installed.

Delievered early this AM.    Heat and humidity in danger zone today and for next week so debating how much driving ir if I should do a trip

@jfb05177 posted:

anyone care to guess as of today how much I have in 5177  

More than any of us care to admit! 

Why think about it?

It looks like you’re enjoying your car! I hope so!

You can’t take it with you….

question about air conditioning ?

just how good should I expected.   NC today is high 90's, sunny and high humity.

my older pickup and SUV will require going less than max after an hour drive.

however, after 30 / 40 drive today I was tempted to lower the windows giving I was uncomfortable sweat.    Diffinately would not want to drive several hours.

the air out of the two dash vents was cool at hand but warm by the time it made it to face.

supposedly I have a new rotary system fitted into the original box.

when delevered yesterday the primary tech suggested I get glass tinted to max legal

@jfb05177 posted:

question about air conditioning ?

just how good should I expected.   NC today is high 90's, sunny and high humity.

my older pickup and SUV will require going less than max after an hour drive.

however, after 30 / 40 drive today I was tempted to lower the windows giving I was uncomfortable sweat.    Diffinately would not want to drive several hours.

the air out of the two dash vents was cool at hand but warm by the time it made it to face.

supposedly I have a new rotary system fitted into the original box.

when delevered yesterday the primary tech suggested I get glass tinted to max legal

I let you know if my “upgrades” are working…

-outside air intake to 25% of the fan

-air outlet for cabin air

finishing up a multi year resto on my 1972 and I run a AC compressor  OEM Sanden 4663. R134, all new lines, new evaporator  and orig condenser.  A/C is all stock and in stock location.  I have 2 ball valves in the heater lines and yesterday at abo50ut 5pm NJ time it was almost 90 degrees and dripping humidity and went out for a 30 minute drive and had mid 50 degree coming out the vents and with the infra red shooting inside the vents it was as low as a constant 34 degree.          

Today, high 90's but cloudy.  65/70 out the vents and cabin got to +85

I checked to see if heater valve might be leaking by;   without compressor, fan on vents were at cabin temp

Do you have shut off valves?

I got electrical valves that bypass the heater but still flow…

I think so and should, it is what I requested and I switch the heater on.

I feel that by the air out the vent not being warmer than the cabin with compressor switched off implied the electracal heater valve was blocking pretty good.

I noticed I have access to short sections of the tubes connected to the evaporator, I plan to attach thermal couple there for latter testing.

(the heat/humity today hit me pretty hard today so didn't spend any time outside)

Here is what I did for upgrading the A/C

https://pantera.infopop.cc/top...core-keeping-it-cozy

Update.  I am renaming to "bad luck cat"

basically back under tarp in the barn. Not that it is undrivable, just needs some rework....

about 2,000 miles since changing ZF gear lube,   looks like a lot of "dust" on magnet to me.  

back to shop due to loss of power and a few other items.

but like going to Dr, hadn't driven since I limped it home, then cranking to put on roll back it was probably back to 90%.

back from shop Friday.

replace holley sniper fuel pump for the lost of power

programing changes to help with stalling

wired up windshield wipers

said AC was as good as they could get it

next morning early, took a 300mrt drive to car show in Southport NC.   No trophy but horse from all the people I talked with.   drove back through a down pour !   trip down in high 90's and HUMID.   car ran hotter than I thought it should    Think I lost 5 lbs in the sauna!

while It won't help with operating temp, I added a over flow tank to my header tank vent.   it is 24 ozs, which is about the volume of air in my cold header tank (coolant thermal expansion volume).   when cold, over flow tank is empty and full when hot.   keeping the header tank full hot & cold, thus coolant reaches cap pressure at lower temp.  I mounted it using the right rear wheel well sheild bracket.

had a shift gate milled in an effort to accomudate my damaged linkage

after a few hours of driving since delieviered, the driver side muffler came loose.   this side has the O2 sensor.   the nuts for the collector clamp vibrated loose.

I had the same problem with the collector flange bolts / nuts.  Mine were double nuts and they still worked loose.  After the third time, I replaced the nuts with metal locking nuts...problem solved.

I suspect that there is some "seating" that takes place with the bell / ball ends after a few heat cycles and vibration.

John

Joe,

What part of your shifter linkage is damaged that required the shifter gate mods?

John, I am so very glad to see you out and enjoying the car After all you have been through getting the car out of the garage!!

the shop bought new, shifter to ZF, but didn't adjust to go easy, just FORCED shifts.   Telling me that was the way it should be.!   I haven't checked to see if it could be an easy correction.   I've been driving without gate and side to side free play is a lot.

as for collector nuts, I went with old school long brass nuts.

@jfb05177 posted:

the shop bought new, shifter to ZF, but didn't adjust to go easy, just FORCED shifts.   Telling me that was the way it should be.!   I haven't checked to see if it could be an easy correction.   I've been driving without gate and side to side free play is a lot.

What was bought new "from the shifter to the ZF"?

an assembly of the rods and u-joints from the shifter to the zf !

Hmmm.  Never seen that before.
Wish I was closer by.

By "new" do you mean all the parts were manufactured for you or did you use original parts that had been refurbished? What are you using for a trunnion bearing?

i think the shop bought every thing in the Wilkinson catologe.!

they initially used the rubber insert trunion, But I insisted they use a sperical bearing.

It should have been perfect, but I think the forceful shifting during testing loosen things up.   the free play requires shifter sliding along side of the upholtered frame,   ie where the gate was machined to.   with 2/3 is pretty close to center, (some times requires a little side to side wiggle)

correcting is on my wish list for latter.  sort of imposible to watch linkage to find loose section by your self.

Joe,  I would gladly drop down there to help with that, but you're aware of my newest commitments.  My schedule might be free enough if you head north this weekend, as I'll probably be stuck in Rocky Mount.  We could also address it at Fleet Fest assuming one of the trailer folks brings a floor jack.  Or possibly even at my house earlier that departure day, just I hate to be adjusting it under time pressure and possibly making it worse before better (it could happen).  I personally have had good experience with the (basically Hall I think) spherical trunion, though I have seen arguments for stock in the long run, but I don't put that much mileage on mine.  I'm basically now probably also wearing out some fabric going into R, but I am comfortably back to keeping my shift gate in.  Obviously, the trunion nut must be tight. - Lee

Thanks for Coming down Lee !

Nice to have some one else look things over.

Dang . . . should have taken a pic

So you two got the shifter linkage adjusted?

Do you have shims that you use in the gate to hold things study while you’re doing the adjustment?

I hear that can be helpful.

Actually, I bet if somebody 3-D printed something up, they’d sell quite a few of them!

Rocky

no adjustment attempted.   I did notice one connection.   the "nipple" on the ZF shifter input shaft.   with zf in 4th, the "nipple" could be wiggled to move the sifter about the amount machined.    during drive, if shifter pushed max right (where milled away) it would go into 4th, BUT if pushed to where 4 th gate should be, it could go into 2nd (MONEY SHIFT)

With the trans in gear you should not be able to rotate the input at all. Check the set screws inside the shifter box and make sure they are tight.

https://drive.google.com/file/...cE62yv3r-7Fa-Mn/view

the input shaft does not wiggle (well veryverylittle).   the nipple that is pinned to that shaft is wiggling.   not much at that diameter, but is significant at the shifter.

my gut feeling for repair is to drill/ream the pin hole larger and new fitted pin.

just the location would require right hand drill and a steadier hand than mine

without the gate is the way to go, BUT just for looks, I want a gate

thanks, on tapper pin

item #3 Connector . . . reminded me of a hose nipple

some thing new

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZiCHfpUssx8

exhaust pop, right side,   Idle, slow creep and cruising.   loud enough to get people to look!

How do the plugs look?

Do you have a waste spark ignition system? Sounds like a fouled spark plug.

using a distrubuter so just single spark.   since I've had it back the performance has been questionable, but this is embarrising and probably doing damage.

In fact I think that right muffler is restricting as the pulse of "normal" is very noticably less than left side.

right now I'm just going to leave it parked.   we've got a week of heavy rains and wind

sounds like a loose baffle in the muffler