question . what is the location to access spark plug removal, from the top or from underneth?
Both depending upon which plug. My quarter windows are removed so you can get to some through those on the side. But pull the screen and side inner panels first in both cases.
I only remove the screen and change the plugs for the top. YMMV
John
"don't ask me how i did it, I just did it, it was hard"
changed the right back plugs. from the top.
It did make a differance. the popping at idle seems to went away. still can just hear random popping at cruise.
the right muffler is still significantly quiter than left.
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Joe, I had been up at the lake where I have forgotten my p/w for this account, until this afternoon (at home my PC remembers it or something). Not sure what all has transpired (maybe Four Oaks show, your appointment, etc.) since we drove it last Thursday when I thought it was running well overall, with the exception of 2 "hiccups," but I didn't push it very hard. Obviously these passenger bank plugs are fouled (2nd from left in pic maybe not so bad, hard to tell from that angle). Probably the driver's side are, too. I would strongly suspect your heated wideband O2 sensor is also now fouled, which will keep your system from learning and proper operation (as you know, been there, done that). Those can be a bit pricey, when I last replaced mine it was around $130 from Summit with tax and shipping, and I re-fouled mine and new plugs very quickly, the reason I switched back to a carb as you know. But I may have had some other exhaust leaks at the time still, and my EFI system model had more of a reputation for that way-rich idle circuit than your system. Do you have an O2 sensor tool? I have one, but they're not very expensive, I have the sorta cylindrical type that plugs onto a probably 3/8" ratchet, with a slot to clear its wires. Usually easy to replace, easier than the plugs I suspect if the shop did the bung for it with easy access in mind, but the bung needs some upward orientation, as I'm sure they knew. I "think" you may have the Sniper 2, which has a good reputation if so, but you still need some knowledgeable tuning help it sounds like, and that's hard to get in areas like ours for aftermarket throttle body EFI. Maybe you can confirm that so others have a clearer picture here. --Lee
@jfb05177 posted:"don't ask me how i did it, I just did it, it was hard"
changed the right back plugs. from the top.
It did make a differance. the popping at idle seems to went away. still can just hear random popping at cruise.
the right muffler is still significantly quiter than left.
Not pretty… I would go for a “spirited” drive.. rpm, going thru the gears….
plugs look like what my dad had in his car when he was 83 years old… (35mph top speed)
Lee, following Four Oaks, the right side exhaust was popping hard enough to possible bust a muffler. the day after the popping occured at idle. the youtube audio above.
the new right side plugs helped, test drive, I can hear a light popping less often and had a carb hickup. I'm still concern that the exhaust pulse out of the right is still much less than left. wonder if unbalance back presssure is causing problems.
LaMans, driving is the Plan!. Given I aint that good of a driver, I do stay in the lower rpms, but avoid Lugging below 1800. plan to start taking shifts to 3500
I don't think low RPMs are an issue here, both Joe and I were hitting reasonably high RPMs a week ago on his car (Ron McCall swapped out my ring gear to 3.77, which I have now gotten accustomed to, so if anything I was mentally surprised to see Joe's tach going as high in each gear shifting naturally, but Joe still has a stock ring gear). Not to mention that when I drove his, I "missed" 2 shifts due to the ZF in the 4th gate still hitting 2nd, briefly, not under continued acceleration. It's interesting because the stick still settles to the left side of the 4th gate even in 4th (probably related to the rotation in his diagram at the "tapper pin"). But overall the shifting was so close to excellent, and I only had a couple hours at the time, and by the time we both did a country drive, it didn't make sense to break loose the turnbuckle to try to "perfect" it. All the joints (trunion, shifter u-joints) appeared tight/solid visually watching the other go through the gears. You just learn to go all the way to the right side of the gate to hit 4th and 5th, not hard to do. He had his resto shop follow George P's 500 HP 351C formula with this build (pretty bombproof), a couple of brief "missed" shifts hitting 4,500+ certainly wouldn't be an issue here, none close to redline. But they're also not going to fix any fouled O2 sensor. I definitely wouldn't have suspected any valvetrain, etc., issue a week ago, but with some new mileage since then, and I haven't seen this new issue firsthand, and I see the couple flames in his video from the passenger tailpipe, which I think was still on the fouled plugs. Swapping out the driver's side plugs will probably continue to help, for now. But it's not a carbureted engine and still in fairly early stages of EFI tuning (which "should" be self-learning but isn't always that simple), and neither his nor my main driving with our P-cars is in particularly "idle circuit" places, our drives are usually substantially highway. I don't claim to be a master mechanic by any means, it's why I'm trying to add some details for the collective brain trust here, but I've had up to 2 P-cars at once, over 25+ years, I've done most projects by now, most several times over. Normally I would agree with the spirited driving theory, but I doubt that's going to be the fix in this case. I also doubt there's any "mechanical" issue. FWIW.
It looks like the plugs are wet, possibly with oil?
A picture of Taper Reamers and Taper Pins.
Reamers are turned 'Clock-Wise'...Backing-Out by turning it 'Counter Clock-Wise', will destroy the cutting edges! This will Chip-Off the Cutting Edge, and make it forever Useless. Look at the Ends of these Reamers and see the 'Square' Drive End. This Denotes a 'Hand' Reamer. (Not a 'Machine' Reamer) The square drive is used in a 'Tapping' Handle, or a 'T' Handle. Most don't know, the Hand reamer Square drive, can also be used in a Rachet Handle with a 8-Point or 12 Point Socket. CW Only.
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...A Tapered Pin in the Shifter Shaft 'Adapter', with a Correctly reamed Bore, would allow ZERO Movement, forever (almost)!!
MJ
@jfb05177 posted:Lee, following Four Oaks, the right side exhaust was popping hard enough to possible bust a muffler. the day after the popping occured at idle. the youtube audio above.
the new right side plugs helped, test drive, I can hear a light popping less often and had a carb hickup. I'm still concern that the exhaust pulse out of the right is still much less than left. wonder if unbalance back presssure is causing problems.
LaMans, driving is the Plan!. Given I aint that good of a driver, I do stay in the lower rpms, but avoid Lugging below 1800. plan to start taking shifts to 3500
Once you figure out the bigger problem, You also may consider changing to hotter spark plugs (if the plugs left and right don’t have a better color just to suit your driving style ) do a compression test while you are at it!
That the muffler may have a baffle loose and blocking the exhaust flow is a possibility…
...I have Tested ALL the Autolite Plugs! 24 is too cold 26 is Too HOT and will cause Pinging in a 'Normal' running Engine. 25's are Perfect by My Testing!
You can go to Hotter #26 Plugs, but until You fix the Problem of Oil being sucked into EVERY Cylinder of That Bank, you're just going to be Burning Oil and Replacing Plugs!! ALL 4 Cylinder Spark Plugs Are 'Oiled', Equally!! There is NO Fix For it. I would Take the Manifold Off, I'll bet it's the Intake Gasket! Intake Gaskets are Very Tricky to get Right!!! They Eather Seal Correctly or It's Very Easy to get them Out of Place. On 4V Ports the Gasket covers less than 1/4" around the Perimeter Bottom. That is why I invented the '4 Stud' Guiding System, it Holds the Gasket Correct, while you drop the Manifold Straight Down! ALL of that Oil is NOT Normal! Yes! I Invented it! I first posted it here Many Years ago. Enough said.
How does the Other Bank of Plugs Look? NOT as Fouled, then it's the RIGHT Gasket. All 8 Plugs Fouled...It's the PVC Valve OR the Entire Manifold is Not sealing against the Valley, My Guess.
MJ
MJ and all, thanks for your responses, I'm learning some things, both about tapered holes and pins, as well as oil consumption. I've always respected your expertise in your knowledge base here. I think this will help Joe move forward on these issues, which is all I'm trying to facilitate.
Link to thread for Marlin's 4 stud guiding system for intake R&R, so others can see:
https://pantera.infopop.cc/top...old-guide-studs-5-16
Is there a way to confirm that to be an issue first? (His is a "new" build, at this point maybe a few years old but with minimal mileage). Do EFI fuel pumps have a check valve to stop fuel flow when not powered in case we had to disconnect a fuel line? I have a ball valve shutoff near the tank on mine now, but Joe may not. The shop that did his resto is hours away. Joe has been hoping to attend the Naval base Fleet Fest event in Norfolk in a month organized by the Long Island POCA chapter, as will I. Intake R&R is not my strong suit, but I have gasket scrapers, torque wrench, etc. and have assisted with it a few times, I understand basic torque patterns and can look up torque specs. I have no idea what intake gasket system they used, but suggestions welcome, for whoever does the R&R--also for valve cover gaskets if they need to be replaced. I'm guessing dizzy doesn't have to come out, probably just cap to come off? It's been years since I had a 351C. I know it's a dry intake.
MJ - THANKS for Your input, I read every word. I might take fore ever to act but all you have said has been noted and hopefully will be done.
My "reasoning" for only right bank plugs was left exhaust sounded GOOD while right was popping, if I pull to look, just as well replace.AND I was exhuasted and sore after doing one side! double dose acetaminophen not helping today.
the as found gaps were ~0.035 and that is what I went back with. Next time I due 0.045
I don't see any blue smoke at idle, cruising or moderate acceleration. (not to say it is not there)
I installed a clear fuel filter between PCV and carb to see how much blowby might be happening. 400 miles and filter is dark, but no oil in bottom. At idle and filler cap open (PVC connected) there is air being sucked in valve cover. also in 5000 miles, I might could say cold oil level is only slightly lower.
I also think a compression test would be nice. but more work than I want to do
today's tank of gas drive has been "one gear down" so rpms ran about 2300 to 3500, with a couple pulls to 4500. (local back roads here at 45 and 55 mph). actually a whole lot more fun! than 1800 to 2300 cruising.
I'm not betting on a couple more years 
and thinking about cancelling reservations for Norfolk (but hold on to HOPE)
one "bank" popping is more than likely ONE cylinder and could be as simple as one plug wire is loose or bad. it's highly unlikely a muffler is causing it. The car is running very, very rich as evidenced by the condition of the plugs you removed. You need to get to the bottom of that but, a bad plug wire or plug would cause it to pop. Tell me how I know.
Buy a $50 standard ignition products plug wire set and cap and rotor and replace all the plugs. Start there. then tune the carb mixture. basic stuff to see where you are then.
I also have a compression gauge (if it wasn't stolen, I haven't seen it lately) and remote starter switch, not really hard to check compression, but this is a new bombproof 351C build, that won't likely be an issue. I never saw blue smoke, but neither of us was following from behind on our drives nor saw it in rearview. Same should be true for plug wires, cap and rotor. But I am not a diagnostician. But we do need to isolate the reason for wet/fouled plugs, whether from oil or rich A/F mixture. I tend to agree it looks like oil as a couple have speculated. If excess fuel is washing down cylinder walls, a normal oil dipstick level can be misleading.
...Thank You!!!! 
No, Thank you!
1
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..Some of Us change out our own Spark Plugs. Most of You Don't. For those who do, here is a Trick to make life much easier!
First, when I do the Plugs, I start with the Right Bank, cylinders 1,2,3,4. I want to start with the Hardest to reach First, so as I proceed through the Work, it gets Easier. I start by pulling all the Plugs wires, making sure they are legibly Numbered at or near the Boot. All out of the way I lay Deep over the fender wearing Flannel Pajama bottoms, so as to never scratch the finish. Starting with #1, I pull all 4 Plugs, so as to Compare. After gapping the 'Autolite 25' plugs EQUAL to .045", I Install all of the Plugs starting with #1. Put the Wires back on then go to the left side and start again with #'s 5,6,7,8. First the Hardest to reach #5. And remember Wires 5 and 6 tend to arc-over as they fire one after the other. If I remember correctly.
NOW, the Point of this posting. When installing the 'New' Plug I Highly Do NOT Recommend using a Socket to Start the Threading IN!! 9 times Out of 10...the Thread 'Naturally' will 'Want' to 'Grab' Crooked and Cross-Thread. While using a Socket the 'Installer' will Not have the 'Feel' to notice this, until it is Too Late. Especially when dealing with the Treaded Spark Plug bores of Aluminum Heads!!
I have been using this 'Helper' for decades! I Don't believe I 'Invented' it. But, I have never seen this posted on this Forum.
During World War II, in the Factories the Saying was "Easy Does It". If it does Not 'fit'... Don't force it! Something is Not right.
A 2" Piece of Rubber Tubing, gives You a good grip on starting the Plug, with the Fingers. You can FEEL the Threads Line-Up, with the Fingers and the Plug can Screwed, Smoothly, all the way into Snugged Up, THEN remove the Tube and Use a Socket to Properly Tighten.
Never try to start the Tread with a Wrench/Socket, just good advise born of Experience.
Life can be Much Easier.
All the Best!
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...When installing the Plugs, using the Fingers, saves all of that 'Wrenching'.
One last thing...Using the Tube, allows the Plug to Align Centrally with the Threaded Bore. You want to be Careful NOT to allow the Plug Threads to Scrape into the Pocket of Debris, laying just outside the Opening!
Good Luck with it!!
MJ
MJ, that is a great post of making our lives a little easier. Thank you again for sharing your experiences to make ourselves and mistresses happy. And so simple also!
Ken
...LAST! If You believe there is any possibility that One or More Plug Wires may be Arcing to Ground, or Crossing-Over Together??
Try the 'Total Blacked-Out Test'. Where the Deck is opened for an Observer (you), In a Garage, All Lights Off, Blacked Out, and a Helper starts the Engine (always in Neutral) and gives it a Couple of Moderate Revs.
You might just be Amazed at what You Observe!! And check the 'Coil Wire' and D. Cap, Also. All 'Things' will be Revealed!
"Try It! You'll Like It!!"
MJ
attended the Fuquay-Varina NC, The Cruisers of American Legion Post 116 car show.
was given the center of show spot.
and the announcer/dj told crowd to come and look. apperantly it embarresed 5177 and she peed a little bit!
told by Judges there was no "class" I belong, so given 3rd RAT ROD!
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That looks to be a lot of coolant . Did you overfill the expansion tank or do you have a loose hose clamp?
Larry
Over filled, I had let it warm up (200) and level out before leaving. I have the pressurized expansion tank arrangment.
BUT during the 10 minutes pulling in, got up to 220F! then it was shut down.
So, I am not too happy about how quickly it gets HOT in stop/go traffic. don't think it could survive an extended period in city driving.
Car looks great! I wish I knew you were there, I would of went down to check your car out. I'm fairly close by, in Cary. Finally got a day with no rain and went for a quick ride today, but still a bit too hot & humid with no ac. We'll have to meet up one of these days.
John
Next time skip that warm-up procedure. You’re just heat soaking the engine block without giving it adequate fan-sourced airflow.
In an ideal system your fans alone should be able to maintain a functional temperature
220° is concerning but not a dangerous temperature.
Your only real problem may just be overfilling the expansion tank. Time will tell.
Larry
@marlinjack posted:...read my write-up about the Radiator Cover. Maybe it's Time to Up-Date the Fans. I'm Not going to Get Into the Thermostat and Restrictor Plate! Or 50/50 coolant to Water, Or Un-Bled Air in the System, improper Rad Cap Pressure...and on, and on, and on...
There are Dozens of Reasons!
MJ
@lf-tp2511 posted:In an ideal system your fans alone should be able to maintain a functional temperature
Larry
Low speed with Both Pusher Fans on is my Problem. The temp never levels out, just keeps creeping up like coming off road 190 no fans, within a minute fans on automaticly. the fan are new from vendor unknown (Wilkenson ?) with shrouded multiple blades. increasing speed back >45mph and couple minutes the fans shut off (radiator outlet <160F switch)
As for coolant system over all, I have sides and top on radiator air inlet. deflectors the MJ 180 thermostat and plate, pre diluted NAPA, new neck and 13psi cap. Flow cool pump, over drive pully. the swirl tank top is vented to the expansion tank with the 13p cap. the left top radiator vented back to expansion and expansion bottom routed to heater return.
at the risk of being ridiculed . . .I'll share an ideal
I have added to the improvised coolant arangment. when COLD, I completely filled the expansion tank, then let engine idle to 200 (fans come on, but let temp creep). the thermal expansion releives about 20 ozs. then when back cold the level in expansion is about 6" down. basicaly has stayed like that after driving
I Thought I could add a small (~24oz) recovery tank and thus store the thermal expansion coolant and let it get suck back in when cold. thus cold the level in the cold expansion tank is near full. this actually worked during several excursions.
NOW when city driving and the coolant creeps to >220, then shut down heat soak, that little bit extra thermal coolant releived will "flash" when vented to small recover tank and thus dump its 20 oz holdings. (why puddle was so big)
now I could remove the small recovery tank, But I "worry" when the expansion tank starts cold down 20oz, the compresibility of that air volume delays the coolant pressurization up to cap relief. I am considering that a larger recover tank would contain the flashing.
BUT back to my REAL concern is fans can't maintan temp!! I am HOPING when summer temps drop from >90 down to fall temps <80F I'll be able to do city driving. so I can make the Norfolk gathering late October
Your system should "find its own level" (if it's like mine) in the expansion tank. My expansion tank runs about 1/2 full. I would not be surprised if that volume is more than 20 oz. That's less than a big glass of beer.
So if you overfill (expansion tank FULL), and then it vents into the overflow tank, and gets sucked back in when cooled, it's still overfilled.
My advice.... Let your system reach its happy level (after dumping some coolant on a couple local drives), and it won't do it anymore.
I might suggest you don't ONLY drive it to shows, where venting is a little embarrassing (but not harmful), and ensure your cooling system has stabilized the fluid level first. This will give you more first-hand experience with the behavior of the system.
Perhaps you have done all this.
I can't comment on the thermal observations you are seeing. Your comments make sense about the fans shutting off via the thermo switch while driving at speed, so that’s a good data point on the ACTUAL temperatures…
I'm sure you have a "calibration" on your gauges and are highly confident that 220* indicated on your gauge is 220* at the sender.
Anyway - let your system vent, find it's equilibrium, and then drive it for a bit.
Has it done anything wrong except push out "excessive" fluid (which isn't technically "wrong") yet?
- Boiling sounds at engine shutdown?
Rocky
Rocky, you are correct in your comments. prior driving after expansion tank has "found its level" like you said. as I stated, I thought I could improve on the "self venting" reconfiguration with a catch can (reducing the compressable volume). the "peeing" at car show was not any thing I was surprised about, just embarasing especially with all the attention 5177 got! (posted pic to be funny)
the "peeing" was silent, so no boil gurgling has been heard
But above is not my concern. The fans in city driving are not stopping the temp to rise. Thus don't think it would be able to do extended city driving. while insuffent air flow is first though, the fans and radiator are better than original, so could it be coolant flow. even on hottest most humid days, above 45 mph up to 80 mph (fastest I've been) the temps run about 190F
I have four temperture indicatures. the Sniper digital display with sender in front of block (assume to be accurate), the Vegia dash with sender in pump inlet (just an indication normally about 20 below block), the fan on light from switch in radiator outlet and idiot light switch in swirl tank. (I have not seen idiot light yet though)
So anyway, your system cools as you get up to speed.
Marlin’s “blast pressure” thread gives us something to think about.
Are you certain that your fans are not a restriction to the airflow that is needed? Do you know for a fact that the fans running in the correct direction?
Rocky
It sounds like you should have a robust cooling system design. So this is a little puzzling.
My car, which is similar to yours in this area, and has lower capacity Mariah fans, stays cool, and does not have an overheating problem at idle & low speed.
to my knowledge, My fans are the Mariahs. by rotation arrow, by fan angle, by air being sucked in front and blown out under car, I think direction is correct. the fans shrouds are just touching core. I have capibility to get an air velocity profile, just haven't felt like doing it
at speeds >45mph for a few minuted, fans switch off. I have side and top deflectors and the same spoiler as You. while I've thought about blocking off the ovals in the lower valance, I don't think that would help at low speeds.
I have been thinking about a second "spoiler" just behind the steering rack bracket thinking it would give a higher velocity to the air dumped from lower valance and create low pressure at the radiator exhuast area. But that would mainly help with at speed cooling that is OK.
I too am stumped why cooling with fans is not better.
jfb, might I suggest you extend the expansion tank overflow tube so it dumps behind the rear wheel. If it starts dripping like that at speed it could cause a real safety issue.
Also, I don't want to highjack your thread but where did you find the giant black panther? I have been looking for one for years.
Thanks,
Doug M
Greymalkin
https://www.amazon.com/VIAHART...3448949d5b327bcb06a8
I added "whiskers". at the show, an 8YO panther expert said the eyes and added whiskers were correct. I was surprised too at how much attention it got. Several Ladies wanted their picture taken with it (like the Farrah Fawcett ad)
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Love the collar !! Thanks for the info and the link
DM
interesting attention at local car show !!!
After pulling into parking lot, I noticed an Officer walking briskly towards Me. The Lt. introduced Himself, like the beginning of a traffic stop, then smiles and proceeds to tell me how the Pantera was his dream car and had noticed me coming through town in past. The other drivers and spectators circled and watched to see why Officer was there. after looking car over I asked if he wanted to get in and try pedals,etc. He handed over cuffs and pistol and crawled in! at end of show, as others were lining up to exit, a black unmarked Tahoe with blue lights flashing entered and pulled behind me. the Lt and 3 other Officers exited to hear me crank up!
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@jfb05177 posted:interesting attention at local car show !!!
After pulling into parking lot, I noticed an Officer walking briskly towards Me. The Lt. introduced Himself, like the beginning of a traffic stop, then smiles and proceeds to tell me how the Pantera was his dream car and had noticed me coming through town in past. The other drivers and spectators circled and watched to see why Officer was there. after looking car over I asked if he wanted to get in and try pedals,etc. He handed over cuffs and pistol and crawled in! at end of show, as others were lining up to exit, a black unmarked Tahoe with blue lights flashing entered and pulled behind me. the Lt and 3 other Officers exited to hear me crank up!
The beginning of the story would have created an instant bowel movement…
I would have expected to hear the words “I finally got you…”
...I would have asked them if I could Have a 'Get out of Jail FREE, Card!'
Did he notice the hogleg you normally keep between the seat and the console?
Or was that in another life?
😎
@jfb05177 posted:interesting attention at local car show !!!
After pulling into parking lot, I noticed an Officer walking briskly towards Me. The Lt. introduced Himself, like the beginning of a traffic stop, then smiles and proceeds to tell me how the Pantera was his dream car and had noticed me coming through town in past. The other drivers and spectators circled and watched to see why Officer was there. after looking car over I asked if he wanted to get in and try pedals,etc. He handed over cuffs and pistol and crawled in! at end of show, as others were lining up to exit, a black unmarked Tahoe with blue lights flashing entered and pulled behind me. the Lt and 3 other Officers exited to hear me crank up!
Reminds me of driving home from a PCNC meeting late one night years ago... I got pulled over, but it turned out the officer was a gearhead and a fan of the Pantera and wanted a closer look. We spent about an hour on the side of the road showing him the Pantera and talking cars. In that time we had about 3 other patrol cars come by to check on what was going on - apparently he was the shift captain and would be unusual for him to make a traffic stop. Turns out he knew my family (years past) and we connected again at Concorso Italiano later that year.
week end of driving started out good.
car show saturday,Triple Crown Sanford NC
then couple hour drive sunday. . .BUT
Had to call Hagerty - - -note, trying to use Hagerty auto roadside assist would not work due to short VIN. took an hour to finally speak to person, then 2 hour wait for roll back. I tried AAA, but they didn't want to.
Oh, coolant dump! Hope I didn't hurt engine as I drove a couple minutes to find pull off.
Lower swirl connection.
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...THAT'S Exactly WHY, Most of Us Use 2 Hose Clamps at Each Hose End! One Clamp WILL Fail! Two Clamps...Can't.
In My View
MJ
Jfb
If you have a vent line running from the top of the radiator to the swirl tank I would also do a check to ensure the vent tube running under the car is not blocked with rust or sludge. This is common and can happen quickly. You should be able to do a quick bleed test at the banjo connection at the top rhs of the radiator. If it does not flow coolant you could well have an air pocket in the top of the radiator despite having filled the expansion tank to the top.
If your overall cooling system has an air pocket you will have the cooling issues you describe . The upper thermostatic fan switch can also become not immersed in coolant and then be spasmodic in triggering your fans, contributing to the overheating.
I had to pull and replace this tube as the blockage , as I discovered after cutting the original tube up , ran almost the full length of the original vent tube. A new tube was the only solution.
need to break THIS routine;
Saturday great car show
Sunday waiting beside road for roll back
car show "roll in" you tube. Listen to that kitty purr !
I ventured into "big City" for C&C
update . . .
5177 has been out of Shop for a Year now with 4 months back.
so in about 8 months, I've put 10,000 miles! that is about 300 miles per week and no more than 150 miles from home
a 5 minute clip
car will be out of commission for a while (:
went to lunch prior to a planne d couple hour drive. cranking after lunch and brake pedal had more travel than normal so back to barn to look. found front resoivor LOW, then crawled under rear to see inside left rear wheel with paint bubbled!
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Now that is super annoying!!!
A fail with inducing damage… super suck Suck sucks…
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That's a goodly leak... Sorry to see it.
Good luck with the fix. You might do well with the SACC / Wilwood replacement option.
Rocky
The rear calipers come from the PEUGEOT 504 and the repair kits are easily found and inexpensive.
Leak at hose connection to caliper??
I just realized, I was wrongly "concerned" about what turns out to be the wire clip that should hold the dust boot. that is what i saw loose and should not be the fault. I also found the dust boot and clip off on the other side