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electric heater control valve

jfb05177jfb05177Member
In Rock's Pictural Post of his engine compartment improvements, a side discussion was started about a remote position heater control valve. I had been looking at these and asked the manufacture about cost. here is the info provided today

http://www.thermotion.com/topi...t-control-valve.aspx

Hello Mr. Byrd,
We appreciate your interest. Here are the prices:
354-69494 - $76.90/pc.
354-69493 - $76.75/pc.
354-69515 - $55.00/pc.
354-65002 – 24” wire harness - $24.00/pc.

We try to keep units in stock, but all orders are subject to prior sales. There is a $15.00 Shipping and Handling fee on orders less that 2.5#. Orders weighing more than 2.5# are processed at the UPS charged rate. Also, a $5.00 credit card processing fee on all orders.
Best,
Gary
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davidnunndavidnunnMember
Gary,

How do you control your heater control valve?

There's a rad shop in Bellflower, CA that used to sell an electronic heater control valve kit that used the Thermotion bypass style valve. The kit contained an assembly that connected the stock COLD - HOT control lever to a slide potentiometer that, in turn, controlled the electronic heater control valve. They discontinued the kit a few years ago due to lack of demand. It's too bad because it's a very good idea moving the heater control valve out of the passenger compartment. Once you've done that, neither of the heater hoses are under pressure when the heater control valve is in the "COLD" position.

I purchased one of these kits years ago but rather than install the valve in the engine compartment, I mounted it to the front bulkhead, just above the main coolant pipes (just behind the steering rack). Since then, I've moved away from the bypass style (four port) heater control valve and installed a two port (in/out) valve.

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noquarternoquarterMember
Excuse me if this is sidetracking the topic, but why not get rid of the heater all together? My Pantera is an ex-California car without heater. When I bought it I had on my to do list to reinstall heater, living in Denmark. But when I had to drive it to the authorities for an approval process on a day with 0 degrees celsius, I discovered that I wasn't cold, the engine in the back and the coolant pipes in the bottom quickly heated up the cabin. The reduced complexity and risk of scalding from not having a heater outweighs the disadvantages IMO

I have A/C though, wouldn't be without it...
C comp2Member
That's kind of interesting Mikael, I removed my A/C because I don't use it; and it's over a 100lbs but I have to have heat occasionally. The only time I run A/C is in 100+ weather in my truck when I take my dog. I put the A/C on the dog and I still keep the windows down.

The Vintage Air valve has a rheostat and an CU controller:

http://www.summitracing.com/pa...HE14nPSbkWIyjJPD_BwE

I have been using it in the MG for years:




My setup for the heater on the Pantera is different then typical. I am using a P2-T2 couple which I made form stainless and it is in the front of the car before it goes into the radiator:




C comp2Member
On some of the airplanes such as the King Air they use air from the exhaust to heat the edge or lips of the intake. On one exhaust tip the fitting points into the exhaust and on the other exhaust it points out. P2 T2 refer to the ports. A lot of people just know what it means.

If you look at the metal around the intake duct, this is where the air goes through and heats it up:



Here is an exhaust tip with the port pointed out so the hot air would be pulled out here by the exhaust:



What I am doing is similar but it is an experiment. I am not sure how well it will work but the idea is the flow is aligned to go in one tube by preference and pulled by the other by its sheer alignment. I have not actually run the engine long enough to test it yet but that is coming.

If it does work, it saves on plumbing. I don't have to run water lines from the water pump or use an extra pump.
Last edited by comp2
davidnunndavidnunnMember
quote:
Originally posted by JFB #05177:
David...
Do you recall with the 4 port if the "slide" provided a linear amount of heat control or was it more of a curve due to the mixing at 1/2 open/closed positions.


The potentiometer that controls the 4 port electronic heater control valve is a 5K Ohm, linear taper pot. The 2 port valve uses a 10K Ohm, linear taper pot.
tsolotsoloMember
quote:
Originally posted by David_Nunn:
quote:
Originally posted by JFB #05177:
David...
Do you recall with the 4 port if the "slide" provided a linear amount of heat control or was it more of a curve due to the mixing at 1/2 open/closed positions.


The potentiometer that controls the 4 port electronic heater control valve is a 5K Ohm, linear taper pot. The 2 port valve uses a 10K Ohm, linear taper pot.


When I did mine I measured the included potentiometer and it was a 0-4.7Kohm. The EZGO setup has a 5Kohm potentiometer which was close enough especially since it is 300ohms over. Works great.

Steve
tsolotsoloMember
quote:
Originally posted by David_Nunn:
Steve,

That EZGO pot box looks awesome! It's perfect for the application. How did you ever find such a thing???


I contacted the radiator guy that had been selling the kit on ebay first and when he said he wasn't having any more made I set out on my own. I spent alot of time searching the internet for options, alot of time. The EZGO is used for speed conrtol in golf carts and electric vehicle conversions. When I stumbled upon it I knew I could work with it. I ended up opening up the plastic controller box and trimming the plastic down so it would fit inside the EZGO. I soldered the potentiometer wires from the controller to the EZGO, glued the controller inside it with black RTV and was off to the races! I used a choke cable kit from NAPA for the inner control cable and bracketry and then dug out some bicycle brake cable housing for the cable sleeve as I didn't feel comfortable having the bare steel cable housing that came with the choke kit down there where it might touch something.



Steve
B Bell3156Member

IMG_4216IMG_4215IMG_4214IMG_4213I made an enclose to just be ziptied out of the way.

18 gauge steel, ground out a slot for the slider, the holes for the 3-64 screws  and one 1/4” hole for the mounts

wrapped it with a 2” strip so 1/2 protects the slider and the other side the pot, welded it together and ground away indeeded areas so it takes up less space, drilled a hole in the side and front to zip tie.



Dan

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cuveecuveeMember
@jfb05177 posted:
In Rock's Pictural Post of his engine compartment improvements, a side discussion was started about a remote position heater control valve. I had been looking at these and asked the manufacture about cost. here is the info provided today

http://www.thermotion.com/topi...t-control-valve.aspx

Hello Mr. Byrd,
We appreciate your interest. Here are the prices:
354-69494 - $76.90/pc.
354-69493 - $76.75/pc.
354-69515 - $55.00/pc.
354-65002 – 24” wire harness - $24.00/pc.

We try to keep units in stock, but all orders are subject to prior sales. There is a $15.00 Shipping and Handling fee on orders less that 2.5#. Orders weighing more than 2.5# are processed at the UPS charged rate. Also, a $5.00 credit card processing fee on all orders.
Best,
Gary

Have Checked with Amazon? They have a lot of Control Valves at may work. This Co. as good as they may be, but $15 shipping and $5 CC processing fee.

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