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issues are
a). no horn have power to relay will ck the horns themselves but if they work is the issue in the turn signal switch?
b). oil temp gauge po wired in had sensor wire clipped
i ordered an electric one to fill the hole where do i tap into 12 v?
c). no dash or gauge lights the courtesy light on all the time can i use that courtesy light wiring as power source? the is a 'plug' down by the reostat in driver side footwell w black and yellow wires coming from it but not plugged in. is that the problem?
d). no power to cigar lighter. i dont smoke but would like to power my garman or ipod. is the power to the lighter the pink wire that is not hot or the 'blue' wire that is clipped? cant get answer by pondering the wiring diagrams

I HAVE HORNS WOOO HOOO po had clipped the brown ground wire at the turn signal
I HAVE OIL TEMP the thermal couple had been clipped, replaced with electrical unit
I HAVE LIGHTS TO CENTER CONSUL had to bypass one of the yellow/black wires
NO SPEEDO /TACH LIGHTS seems to be problem past the white plastic connector will try get tach out and rewire RHEOSTATS ARE HISTORY
CIGAR LIGHTER CONVERTED TO POWER PORT
FRIED STEREO ON AMMETER whoops well taking it in to have massive amp and cd changer removed cant hear it anyway hopefully is just a fuse
CONSUL COURTESY LIGHT COMES ON WITH HEADLIGHTS low priority item but will try to get at that
NO BACKUP LIGHT OR REAR VIEW CAMERA can anyone tell me how transaxle activates the bu light switch?

thanks for all the help and support
joe
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i'm battered, bruised, scratched and tired but have lights to my speedo and tach
dim lights but lights none the less
awesome
found the connection to the courtesy lights, just a tap into the yellow and black gauge wires will address that nest weekend
did not have time to look into the backup light issue
will check that out tomorrow will unscrew the switch and press the plunger and hope it is just an adjustment to the depth of the switch, I sure hope so
that will be it for now on the electrical gremlins
taking it in wed to have the fried stereo evaluated and the monster amp and cd player removed
Joe, your rheostat may be rebuildable- by you- in minutes. First remove the thing from the dash. Inside the assembly is a hair-fine wire that unaccountably carries all the current thru the assembly. It cracks with age/vibration. On the back of the unit are two large copper stubs that protrude thru the bakelite plastic- maybe test points. Solder a very short jumper wire between the stubs and likely the rheostat will work again.

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