Engine build… just because I want to…

@LeMans850i posted:

I seriously doubt that that big slice can go anywhere… and regardless, it would be very easy to drill and tap the port from the bottom… couldn’t go anywhere, even if a bomb exploded!

I think it’s a very cool, period Correct mod.

I don't think such a big piece of metal would go very far either, but if it starts to move it will create filings that will be sucked into the engine and scratch the cylinder and the piston.

A photo found by chance on the net with fixing screws underneath:

@rene4406 could you repost the picture please

@rene4406 posted:

Yes… that’s what needs to be done on my head too…… Doesn’t take much to do that

But I leave that up to the next owner..

When you do it, just thread the insert and not the wall of the head. Drill through the insert and thread the entire hole. Drill the hole in the head so that the shaft of the bolt is snug but doesn't thread to it.

This way you can tighten the bolt in a way that it clamps the insert to the head and you are guaranteed that the bolt hasn't bottomed out in the insert.

If the tip of the bolt sticks out a little into the port, that's ok. It won't adversely effect anything.

It already has been a while.. engine block is still at the machine shop, lifter bores, oil passages restricting, crank polishing and so on…

and I play with the pretty stuff…

Reworked the oil pan…

definitely one of one.. I know overkill.. again…

nobody sees it.. but I know its there..

the drain plug sticking out was just not acceptable - and a bit of cleaning up..

and I replaced the NPT thread on the side drain with a metric machine threaded boss.. NPT drain plug in aluminum.. stupid.. each time you make an oil change half a thread of aluminum is showing up..

Do you have two bungs in the pan?

(My Avaid pan came setup that way…)

If so, you can have an oil temp sender… too.  If you get another compatible with your existing temp gauge, you can switch the senders to a single gauge on the dash with the unused switch on the console (which LM850 has already converted to a panel-mounted volt meter!).

Rocky

(LeMans, maybe you could configure a paddle switch on the steering column?)

Here is one source of the head inserts:

https://www.pricemotorsport.co...ody_ins-351c_4v.html

per the instructions:

The kit contains 8 aluminum castings. The castings are glued into position with the Miller-Stephenson glue and left to sit overnight.  Then you drill and tap and insert a button head bolt from the bottom side of the intake runner.  Now that the insert is secure. Because these inserts are pretty much to size, you should make sure during installation that no part sticks out past the port surface.

Too bad that most of that "bling" is concealed by the chassis when installed?

@jamesolc

Thank you for the information!!

I will put up my heads for sale soon… (anyone interested PM me)

Would an open chamber head benefit from this mod?

@with regards posted:

Would an open chamber head benefit from this mod?

Absolutely yes. Even with the port stuffers, the intake ports are still huge.

You are bringing down the volume from about 252 cc's to about 230 cc's.

The A3 heads are right at 220 and some consider them too big for only a 351.

The port stuffers will crispen up the throttle right off of idle a bit. Enough that it is an improvement.

car came with a Torquer manifold with huge openings, purchased a Performer with smaller ports.

@with regards posted:

car came with a Torquer manifold with huge openings, purchased a Performer with smaller ports.

The issue there is that the Torker is a much better manifold then  the Performer. The Performer is not a good manifold at all. I have run both.

Run the torker WITH the Port Stuffers. They do not need to match up. It will work with that combination perfectly fine.

Thanks! What would you use for a carb?

I personally found the Holley 4779 worked really well. That is a 750cfm mechanical secondary (double pumper). I like the double pumper Holley carbs.

The idle is a bit heavy and will smart your eyes but with a .570 or more lift cam, the Torker intake and the port stuffers, that is about a pepie a set up as you will get without starting to spend exotic amounts of money now.

I’m going a bit more tamed… air gap dual plane intake (for longer runners) and 750 MightyDemon with vacuum secondary’s on the Cleveland Trickflow heads..

should be a good useable daily driver with acceptable fuel mileage lol

double pumper are pigs regarding fuel consumption… but do make more power on the top end… But how often am I there?

@LeMans850i posted:

I’m going a bit more tamed… air gap dual plane intake (for longer runners) and 750 MightyDemon with vacuum secondary’s on the Cleveland Trickflow heads..

should be a good useable daily driver with acceptable fuel mileage lol

double pumper are pigs regarding fuel consumption… but do make more power on the top end… But how often am I there?

Sorry to hijack your thread Roland!  I do know what you mean about the fuel consumption though.. I'm leaning toward a more ************ build using the open chambers but with roller cam/lifter/rockers and forged pistons. engine will be balanced, aiming for around 400hp?  That may be optimistic..lol

I prever the 650 DP Holley ,  driving most of the time into today's traffic the engine will be run smoother on low rpm, because the better fuel mixure.

when you check the cfm rating for a 351 cleveland and rpm's is a 650 recommanded.

Simon

@with regards …no apologies needed - this is exactly what is needed to make decisions what to put in an engine for what expectations… this is info for everyone … I think the original downfall of the Cleveland in the Pantera was the low compression… you get it in the 10.5 : 1 (that’s probably tops for the 91 octan gas we have here) and a bit of cam the 400hp should show up easily…

(what do you mean with ******** -nasty?-) cam, Valve Springs,  titanium intake valves.  rrrrrrpmmmmm

@simon I agree that a smaller carburetor like a 650 would provide better drive-ability at lower RPMs, but I am not sure if you’re not running out of carburetor at higher RPMs just because the Cleveland heads flow a lot more… (but it may be OK on the low compression stock engine ) there are two calculations… If you look what they say for cubic inches and the size of carburetor for that — and if you look at  the cfm to support  how many hp…

Those who do a lot of dyno work will tell you larger carbs usually show an increase in horsepower at the top end. How the engine will actually be used and how much time it spends at max RPM versus how much time at idle and part throttle determine the best carb choice. (Stolen)

my engine is a 393 cubic inch… and my 750cfm is probably on the low end of cfm for this engine … combined with vacuum secondary (which do not have the enrichment at the second stage like the manual), it should make it a nice driver but loose a bit at top rpm..

Thanks Roland.. yeah a little surprised with the ******* myself.. the word I used had to do with mild but can have a political connection.. hmmmm..

will try to get as close to the 10.5 as possible.

Matt

@with regards aaahh I got you.. 😂😂.   I hope you don’t drill 80,000 lightning holes in the engine block.

you should run easily in the 400’s

for drivability, I would make intake ports smaller

I think my build would be called

  “mild Plus”

I was trying to figure out what you meant by lighting and the I realized you probably meant lightening… as in to make it not so heavy…lol