Engine Value?

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$850. Mostly the value is in the block IF it is a 4 bolt. $150 for the distributor if it is the dual point. The rest is pretty much junk. No one wants the heads or the intake. All just good for boat ballast.

I thought all 351C on Panteras were 4 bolt?

$850 may be generous. I would think half that as the purchaser does not know the condition of the block bores.

A 4 bolt CJ block will bring $350 even if it needs to be rebored.
This all presumes that there are no cracks through the mains and up into the bores.

The heads will bring $100 to $150. Crank and rods $100 to $150. Dual point distributor at least $100.

Intake about 50.

Balancer $25. Flywheel about $40.

@ Raiden. The block "should" be a 4 bolt but it needs to be looked at and the DT engine number stamping on the drivers side rear of the block needs to be there and match the tag on the car, otherwise it isn't the original block to the car.

The condition of the crank is unknown as well. A 10/10 refinished is $100 here. Rods. $5 each. Those are the prices for rebuilds out of the local crank shop.

This also presumes the engine is original and never has been into before for rebuilding but that is an unknown as well and presumes a local pickup. The distributor and flywheel seem to be missing from the picture.

I'd give you $500 if was local.

I'd want to know why the engine was replaced in the first place too?

The engine in the Pantera is the only thing that was reasonably priced and theoretically was the attraction to the car in that the engine was not an exotic one with exotic prices to the parts.

All things considered as far as Pantera values are going, the block if original to the car is much more valuable to you.

To my knowledge it makes no difference wether it is a 4 Bolt or 2 Bolt unless you intend to use it for a Supercharged Top Fuel Dragster? Adding Studs instead of Bolts can add a little rigidity and prevent the Caps from "wandering". The Caps sits in a Groove and hence that it is from the beginning a sturdy design that rarely fails. Prior to your Crankshaft being "blown" off I suspect you will encounter other difficulties!!

I checked on the rear driver side and the number was "05654". My car is 6951. When I checked the number in ProvaMo, it said vin5654 was a European GTS built 6/73(mine was built 10/73) So, the big question is whether it is the original engine and if not, how did it end up from a
European GTS?

There should be an aluminum tag pop riveted in the engine compartment that will say "engine number".

It is not the same as the unit number in the serial number.

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
There should be an aluminum tag pop riveted in the engine compartment that will say "engine number".

It is not the same as the unit number in the serial number.

for example my block is 04527 for car 5177.

I THINK my blocked matched the aluminum tag, but since I used the leak blow to sweep out the parts storage, I can't find the tag!

wow, thanks JFB, I knew there was that little tag, one of the few tags that were still on the car was right there behind the driver in the engine bay, just never gave it any thought. But, it matches the number on the engine - 5654. Guess I have the original engine sitting on my garage floor. What should it cost to clean one of these puppies up? Assuming no major issues.

Raiden
in a few months my house will be built May-July 2016, I am also building an 1100 sq ft garage. If you want it just cleaned / freshened up let me know,(if you want it rebuilt by a engine builder I am not your guy) but it will be on my timeframe. I work strange hours and days covering FL GA and the Carribean. Example I have to be in Miami on 3rd ave next week. while I am there I am going to Greg Smith to look at a lift. PM me if you like.