Looking to purchase a floor jack and stands for 7260. What is the best low height and high height for the jack and stands for these cars? Thanks Chuck
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Hi Chuck,
The only real difference in jacking up a Pantera is the low ground clearance. Your proper lifting points will be the rear crossmember at the end of the 'frame' rails, and each side, just behind the doors, at the frame point where you will find the factory 1" holes that indexed the stock scissor jack. Lifting at these side points will lift the entire side of the Pantera. If your jack fits under these points, great. If not, as in the case with 2511, you will keep a couple of 2x12's to roll up on to give you the added height needed to insert the jack.
When lifting at the rear, bear in mind the sheet metal lip will bend/fold over if you don't use a 1x4 or something similar to spread the load out. The vendors sell bolt on/weld on metal pieces for the rear, and the front, crossmembers that keep you from deforming the crossmember metal.
I have placed 2511 up in the air as high as my jack stands will go with no fears. I locate rears at the engine mount plate with the three bolt heads, and the fronts on the angled frame rail sections just behind the front wheel wells, where you will find additional 1" holes.
In staggered steps, you can lift a side, insert jack stands - lift the other side, insert jack stands - return to side one and lift again, raise jack stands - do side two again - etc.
The side mounts are strong enough as-is to resist deforming, and don't show damage easily, as in the case of the rear crossmember area.
You can also lift front/rear in sections if you have reinforced the front crossmember.
I would recommend stout jackstands, not the tubular cheapies as a matter of normal safety.
For casual tasks, I highly recommend buying a $20 pair of the heavy wall plastic Rhino Ramps sold at the chain stores. They will serve well, and clear a small spoiler if you need to lift up the front end. Hanging holes in them are perfect for storing these hanging down from a garage rafter on a stout nail.
Hope this helps,
Larry
The only real difference in jacking up a Pantera is the low ground clearance. Your proper lifting points will be the rear crossmember at the end of the 'frame' rails, and each side, just behind the doors, at the frame point where you will find the factory 1" holes that indexed the stock scissor jack. Lifting at these side points will lift the entire side of the Pantera. If your jack fits under these points, great. If not, as in the case with 2511, you will keep a couple of 2x12's to roll up on to give you the added height needed to insert the jack.
When lifting at the rear, bear in mind the sheet metal lip will bend/fold over if you don't use a 1x4 or something similar to spread the load out. The vendors sell bolt on/weld on metal pieces for the rear, and the front, crossmembers that keep you from deforming the crossmember metal.
I have placed 2511 up in the air as high as my jack stands will go with no fears. I locate rears at the engine mount plate with the three bolt heads, and the fronts on the angled frame rail sections just behind the front wheel wells, where you will find additional 1" holes.
In staggered steps, you can lift a side, insert jack stands - lift the other side, insert jack stands - return to side one and lift again, raise jack stands - do side two again - etc.
The side mounts are strong enough as-is to resist deforming, and don't show damage easily, as in the case of the rear crossmember area.
You can also lift front/rear in sections if you have reinforced the front crossmember.
I would recommend stout jackstands, not the tubular cheapies as a matter of normal safety.
For casual tasks, I highly recommend buying a $20 pair of the heavy wall plastic Rhino Ramps sold at the chain stores. They will serve well, and clear a small spoiler if you need to lift up the front end. Hanging holes in them are perfect for storing these hanging down from a garage rafter on a stout nail.
Hope this helps,
Larry
> As soon as my el cheapo Harbor Freight jack goes (and it will) I am buying
> a German or made in the USA quality jack, no more import junk.
The best one I found was made in Denmark:
http://www.asedeals.com/hydraulicjacks2.html
Most of my cars are lowered and most of the "low profile" jacks are low only
for the first few inches and just don't work under my cars. It seems there's
a lot of questionable quality low cost Chinese import stuff and some very
expensive U.S. made stuff aimed at professional garages and not a lot in
between. After a fair bit of searching, I settled on DK13HLQ model and
couldn't be happier with it. The saddle height is only 3.1" and the height
stays low for the first 16 inches then tapers up. Not only does it slide
underneath all my cars but it also raises them high enough (lift height is
29.2") that I can actually work comfortably underneath them. The jack has
a wide handle that makes it easy to slowly lower the car and also has a foot
pedal that quickly lifts the jack until contact is made and each pump of the
handle moves the car quite a bit. It even glides around nicely, with the
rear wheels pivoting on ball bearings. Plus it doesn't bleed down under
load. I got the optional rubber pad. The price has gone up a bit since I
purchased mine but I'd still buy another.
As far as jack points on the car, I've been using a block of wood at the
back but am thinking of bolting in a block of aluminum that spans the frame
rails at the rear (same spot I put the block of wood) and something similar
up front (on the frame rails just behind the tie-down eyelets). A block
with dimensions of 15 1/2" x 2 1/2" x 1 1/2" at the rear and 15" x 2" x 2"
at the front should work. You might also want to put a pad on the frame
rails on each side of the car just behind the front wheels.
I already had a couple sets of decent jack stands so I didn't buy these but
AC Hydraulics make a series of nice stands:
http://www.asedeals.com/jack_stands.html
Prothane (and others) make pads that go on jacks and jackstands so you don't
scrath a painted surface. Summit Racing sells the Prothane versions. Before
I got the low profile jacks, I used a set of jack ramps that worked well.
http://www.protechproducts.net/images/tools.asp
Basically a low profile 2-step ramp made of plastic with a non-skid rubber
backing. Raises the car high enough to get a conventional jack underneath.
They come in handy if you have a front air dam with minimal clearance.
Another jack I'd like to find is a screw jack, basically a slender tube with
a right and left handed threads. Spinning the body one way expands the jack
and spinning it the other way contracts. A compact and lightweight alternative
to bottle or scissor jacks. My dad has one that dates back to his Model A
Ford and it's great for working in tight quarters. If anyone comes across
something like that, please let me know.
Dan Jones
St. Louis, Missouri
> a German or made in the USA quality jack, no more import junk.
The best one I found was made in Denmark:
http://www.asedeals.com/hydraulicjacks2.html
Most of my cars are lowered and most of the "low profile" jacks are low only
for the first few inches and just don't work under my cars. It seems there's
a lot of questionable quality low cost Chinese import stuff and some very
expensive U.S. made stuff aimed at professional garages and not a lot in
between. After a fair bit of searching, I settled on DK13HLQ model and
couldn't be happier with it. The saddle height is only 3.1" and the height
stays low for the first 16 inches then tapers up. Not only does it slide
underneath all my cars but it also raises them high enough (lift height is
29.2") that I can actually work comfortably underneath them. The jack has
a wide handle that makes it easy to slowly lower the car and also has a foot
pedal that quickly lifts the jack until contact is made and each pump of the
handle moves the car quite a bit. It even glides around nicely, with the
rear wheels pivoting on ball bearings. Plus it doesn't bleed down under
load. I got the optional rubber pad. The price has gone up a bit since I
purchased mine but I'd still buy another.
As far as jack points on the car, I've been using a block of wood at the
back but am thinking of bolting in a block of aluminum that spans the frame
rails at the rear (same spot I put the block of wood) and something similar
up front (on the frame rails just behind the tie-down eyelets). A block
with dimensions of 15 1/2" x 2 1/2" x 1 1/2" at the rear and 15" x 2" x 2"
at the front should work. You might also want to put a pad on the frame
rails on each side of the car just behind the front wheels.
I already had a couple sets of decent jack stands so I didn't buy these but
AC Hydraulics make a series of nice stands:
http://www.asedeals.com/jack_stands.html
Prothane (and others) make pads that go on jacks and jackstands so you don't
scrath a painted surface. Summit Racing sells the Prothane versions. Before
I got the low profile jacks, I used a set of jack ramps that worked well.
http://www.protechproducts.net/images/tools.asp
Basically a low profile 2-step ramp made of plastic with a non-skid rubber
backing. Raises the car high enough to get a conventional jack underneath.
They come in handy if you have a front air dam with minimal clearance.
Another jack I'd like to find is a screw jack, basically a slender tube with
a right and left handed threads. Spinning the body one way expands the jack
and spinning it the other way contracts. A compact and lightweight alternative
to bottle or scissor jacks. My dad has one that dates back to his Model A
Ford and it's great for working in tight quarters. If anyone comes across
something like that, please let me know.
Dan Jones
St. Louis, Missouri
quote:Plus it doesn't bleed down under
load.
Dan,
I hope this doesn't mean you jack it up and then work under it ;-)
Because I don't even know if my jack bleeds down or not, as I support the car immediately on jack stands once I have it at working height.
I once was sitting Indian cross-legged style working in the front wheel well of a ca-ca-camaro (NOT mine) when the jack let loose. Rotor slammed down inches from my ankle, fender slammed my shoulders and folded me in half and literally pushed all the air out of my lungs. Not a lot of fun.
NEVER RELY ON JUST THE JACK WHILE UNDER THE CAR!
We don't want to lose anyone ;-)
Larry
> I hope this doesn't mean you jack it up and then work under it ;-)
Nah but sometimes, if there's enough room I'll leave the jack in place,
along with the stands. I find I'm using ramps a fair bit these days.
I need to look around for a taller set, something you'd never be able
to drive up on. Anyone ever see anything like that? I've been placing
a wood block on top of ramps but I'd rather not have to use blocks.
Dan
Nah but sometimes, if there's enough room I'll leave the jack in place,
along with the stands. I find I'm using ramps a fair bit these days.
I need to look around for a taller set, something you'd never be able
to drive up on. Anyone ever see anything like that? I've been placing
a wood block on top of ramps but I'd rather not have to use blocks.
Dan
Chuck,
the floor jack must be low enough to fit under your Pantera when it is "collapsed", and the higher it raises your car when extended, the better, because the higher you lift the car, the easier it is to work under it. The really long floor jacks, capable of lifting the car quite high, are generally very expensive AND they are a pain to stash out of the way in the garage when they're not being used. Most floor jacks are also made of steel, and the bigger / heavier they are, the more of a bear it is to manouver them around the garage.
To lift any vehicle really high, requires doing it in steps, as you can only lift one corner (or side, or end) so much higher than the other before getting a jack under the other side of the car or stablility becomes a problem. Unless of course you have 2 highlift floor jacks and a helper, which enables you to lift both ends simultaneously.
I've given you my recommendation in the past, the aluminum stuff from Harbor Freight, 10 minutes down the 101 Fwy from your home. It's inexpensive, my Harbor Freight floor jack hasn't had any problems yet, and you can't wear out a jack stand. And the light weight is oh so welcome, it makes using the tools a pleasure, instead of a bear. I needed the low profile jack in order to fit underneath my car, the only problem is that its max lift is only about 16". I would love to have 30" lift, but I haven't found the "perect" 30" lift floor jack, "yet!".
Perfect means to me that it's made of aluminum, collapses low enough to fit under my lowered car, has a 30" net lift capability, and doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
Whatever the max lift of your floor jack, it's nice to have jack stands that are approximately of the same max height, so you can take advantage of your jack. The higher the jack stands extend, the wider their base needs to be.
If you find something cool, let me know!
Your friend on the DTBB, George
the floor jack must be low enough to fit under your Pantera when it is "collapsed", and the higher it raises your car when extended, the better, because the higher you lift the car, the easier it is to work under it. The really long floor jacks, capable of lifting the car quite high, are generally very expensive AND they are a pain to stash out of the way in the garage when they're not being used. Most floor jacks are also made of steel, and the bigger / heavier they are, the more of a bear it is to manouver them around the garage.
To lift any vehicle really high, requires doing it in steps, as you can only lift one corner (or side, or end) so much higher than the other before getting a jack under the other side of the car or stablility becomes a problem. Unless of course you have 2 highlift floor jacks and a helper, which enables you to lift both ends simultaneously.
I've given you my recommendation in the past, the aluminum stuff from Harbor Freight, 10 minutes down the 101 Fwy from your home. It's inexpensive, my Harbor Freight floor jack hasn't had any problems yet, and you can't wear out a jack stand. And the light weight is oh so welcome, it makes using the tools a pleasure, instead of a bear. I needed the low profile jack in order to fit underneath my car, the only problem is that its max lift is only about 16". I would love to have 30" lift, but I haven't found the "perect" 30" lift floor jack, "yet!".
Perfect means to me that it's made of aluminum, collapses low enough to fit under my lowered car, has a 30" net lift capability, and doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
Whatever the max lift of your floor jack, it's nice to have jack stands that are approximately of the same max height, so you can take advantage of your jack. The higher the jack stands extend, the wider their base needs to be.
If you find something cool, let me know!
Your friend on the DTBB, George
Get the blue jack Dan talks about.
I got the short one (storage considerations) - get the LONG one. Well worth it. and besides, it has the Pope's seal (arf arf) of approval.
I got the short one (storage considerations) - get the LONG one. Well worth it. and besides, it has the Pope's seal (arf arf) of approval.
quote:Originally posted by Daniel_Jones:
> As soon as my el cheapo Harbor Freight jack goes (and it will) I am buying
> a German or made in the USA quality jack, no more import junk.
The best one I found was made in Denmark:
http://www.asedeals.com/hydraulicjacks2.html
Most of my cars are lowered and most of the "low profile" jacks are low only
for the first few inches and just don't work under my cars. It seems there's
a lot of questionable quality low cost Chinese import stuff and some very
expensive U.S. made stuff aimed at professional garages and not a lot in
between. After a fair bit of searching, I settled on DK13HLQ model and
couldn't be happier with it. The saddle height is only 3.1" and the height
stays low for the first 16 inches then tapers up. Not only does it slide
underneath all my cars but it also raises them high enough (lift height is
29.2") that I can actually work comfortably underneath them. The jack has
a wide handle that makes it easy to slowly lower the car and also has a foot
pedal that quickly lifts the jack until contact is made and each pump of the
handle moves the car quite a bit. It even glides around nicely, with the
rear wheels pivoting on ball bearings. Plus it doesn't bleed down under
load. I got the optional rubber pad. The price has gone up a bit since I
purchased mine but I'd still buy another.
As far as jack points on the car, I've been using a block of wood at the
back but am thinking of bolting in a block of aluminum that spans the frame
rails at the rear (same spot I put the block of wood) and something similar
up front (on the frame rails just behind the tie-down eyelets). A block
with dimensions of 15 1/2" x 2 1/2" x 1 1/2" at the rear and 15" x 2" x 2"
at the front should work. You might also want to put a pad on the frame
rails on each side of the car just behind the front wheels.
I already had a couple sets of decent jack stands so I didn't buy these but
AC Hydraulics make a series of nice stands:
http://www.asedeals.com/jack_stands.html
Prothane (and others) make pads that go on jacks and jackstands so you don't
scrath a painted surface. Summit Racing sells the Prothane versions. Before
I got the low profile jacks, I used a set of jack ramps that worked well.
http://www.protechproducts.net/images/tools.asp
Basically a low profile 2-step ramp made of plastic with a non-skid rubber
backing. Raises the car high enough to get a conventional jack underneath.
They come in handy if you have a front air dam with minimal clearance.
Another jack I'd like to find is a screw jack, basically a slender tube with
a right and left handed threads. Spinning the body one way expands the jack
and spinning it the other way contracts. A compact and lightweight alternative
to bottle or scissor jacks. My dad has one that dates back to his Model A
Ford and it's great for working in tight quarters. If anyone comes across
something like that, please let me know.
Dan Jones
St. Louis, Missouri
Check out Pantera Place and Ed Nauman's Pantera Jacking System
http://www.panteraplace.com/page145.htm
Here are some pics of my version of this system. I use two el-cheapo auto store jacks and four basic stands that work fine.
I can get my car up on stands front and back alone and in less than 3 minutes!
My car is pretty low. So I made front and rear plates that match the frame and fit the hole in the top plate of the jack. This reduces a lot of the jack height. For the front jack I removed the wheels to save another 3/4".
See following pics.
http://www.panteraplace.com/page145.htm
Here are some pics of my version of this system. I use two el-cheapo auto store jacks and four basic stands that work fine.
I can get my car up on stands front and back alone and in less than 3 minutes!
My car is pretty low. So I made front and rear plates that match the frame and fit the hole in the top plate of the jack. This reduces a lot of the jack height. For the front jack I removed the wheels to save another 3/4".
See following pics.
Attachments
Images (1)
quote:Originally posted by Daniel_Jones:
I find I'm using ramps a fair bit these days.
I need to look around for a taller set, something you'd never be able
to drive up on. Anyone ever see anything like that? I've been placing
a wood block on top of ramps but I'd rather not have to use blocks.
Dan
Try Rhino Ramps from Pep Boys. My '74L has the spacers removed and a front spoiler and no scraping driving up the ramp.
I use a very small scissor jack to just lift the car an inch (with the wheels still on) to make enough space to get the trolley jack under.
This just lifts the car on the springs so there is not much weight on the scissor jack.
This just lifts the car on the springs so there is not much weight on the scissor jack.
> Try Rhino Ramps from Pep Boys. My '74L has the spacers removed and a front
> spoiler and no scraping driving up the ramp.
I checked there website but all they make is lower height ramps. I'm not
looking for something I can drive up on. I'm looking for a tall ramp that
I can set the car on after jacking it up 30". Currently, I stack a couple
of wood blocks on top of each other at the rear and stack a block on top of
my steel ramps at the front. What I'd like is something that is as tall as
the ramp and block combo. A really wide ramp to fit my 335/35/17 rear tires
would be nice as well. My guess is neither exists so I'll need to add them
to fabricate list.
Thanks,
Dan Jones
St. Louis, MO
> spoiler and no scraping driving up the ramp.
I checked there website but all they make is lower height ramps. I'm not
looking for something I can drive up on. I'm looking for a tall ramp that
I can set the car on after jacking it up 30". Currently, I stack a couple
of wood blocks on top of each other at the rear and stack a block on top of
my steel ramps at the front. What I'd like is something that is as tall as
the ramp and block combo. A really wide ramp to fit my 335/35/17 rear tires
would be nice as well. My guess is neither exists so I'll need to add them
to fabricate list.
Thanks,
Dan Jones
St. Louis, MO
Thanks to everyone for their advice and pointing me in the right direction. Originally i wanted a four post car lift but it won't fit in my garage as cabinets are in the way. Dan those jacks from Denmark look like the way to go. Chuck