Gear shifting problems

ON my car when I was at Monticello Raceway ... it was the slave cylinder ... it was not pushing the clutch far enough to engage it ... I changed the slave and the master and now it works perfect.

Adjustment required. If it was going into first when the lever was in the third gate, it's clearly misadjusted.
Were all the shifter rods removed or adjusted?
I adjusted mine at the closest point to the ZF entry.
I started with the left to right adjustment. The alignment with the splines will adjust this.
Then I put the shifter in second and look at where it sits. Then I put it in third at look at where it sits. Just make the distance even.
Will

quote:

Originally posted by 4NHOTROD:
I started with the left to right adjustment. The alignment with the splines will adjust this.

Initially the splines (if everything was taken apart), fine-tuning can be done by turning the middle rod.

I had a simillar problem at Watkins Glen. It turned to be a broken E clip on the shifters cross shaft. Hope it is not that.
Mark

Alfa4Fun, I sounds to me like something came loose. The ZF worked fine for a few laps then you lost third. If the shift rod does not solve the problem it is most likely internal. Cross shaft or bent shift fork.

BTW this thread should be in the ZF forum. I wonder if George will catch this? HE HE HE

I was testing the Pantera so each time I came back in, the gearbox had about 30 min to cool down while we tried to make adjustments.

So I wonder if the problem isn't coming from a overheated gearbox (loosing gears)?

The problem with the gearbox going into first is something else because it happened twice, leaving the pitbox with a cool gearbox.

We build a guidance for the with a uniball for the rod between the lever and the gearbox and maybe that is the problem.

When I think about it, it might also have been the fact that I didn't push the pedal far enough because I really had to stretch my leg to push it to the end.

Anywhay, I'll see if I have some pictures of the guidance system with the unbiball.

Thx for your help so far.

Go with a cable shifter and end the problem.

The cable might be a good idea instead of a steel rod.

Better picture of the car (I hope waiting in the pit lane.

Check out MalinMotors.com for cable shifter.

http://malinmotors.com/product...eKit/p_cableKit.html

Thx for the link, I just send the a message.

quote:

Originally posted by ALFA4FUN:
The cable might be a good idea instead of a steel rod.

The cable shifter was created to solve a problem ... a problem in the GT40 car hobby. It wasn't originally intended for the Pantera hobby. Although I see that Malin Motors is marketing them for that purpose now. My advice is to speak with Lloyd Butfoy of RBT Transmissions BEFORE you purchase a cable shifter. He has experience with them.

My Pantera shifts buttery smooth, it only takes two fingers to easily move the shift lever from gear to gear ... completely stock shift linkage. So is the likage really the problem? It would be a shame to spend the money on a cable shifter when adjutment and lubrication was all that was required. Or worse yet, to install a cable shifter only to find the transmission continues to shift with difficulty.

Out of curiosity, was your ZF recently serviced, rebuilt or repaired?

-G

I know Lloyd runs a cable shifter in his personal Pantera along with his 6-speed ZF. I did ask him about it once and his response was mostly because I can. LOL He did not really sing its praise's

Could the problem be get rid of the hard to shift, always needing adjustment, trunion bearing friction, exhaust heating the rod which causes expansion of the rod diameter that must slide and rotate through the trunion bearing?

I personally have never run one...but it sure makes more sense. Long travel, mid travel sand rails have been running them for years.

What kind of gear oil are you using? Your problem sounds like it could be heat related.

I had the wrong gear oil in my box for a short time, and when it got hot, the shifting went bad. After it cooled, it was OK. Switched to a GL-4 rated 85W-90 and all was well.

Just change over to the new cable shift system, its awesome!!!!! ur car will shift like a new modern one in every gear

just my .02

Many intresting opinions and suggestions here and I think enough to find a solution.

The main problem is that it shifts well stationary and the first laps and then gradually becomes more difficult, although this is common with race cars.

The solution with the cable shifter look's a good idea but I think I first have to find out some other things.

@ Dave 2811 : the oil I'm using is most certainly not as thick as the one you use. I already chanced the engine oil after one session because when hot, oil pressure dropped below 2 BAR which is to low for a race engine.

@ Cowboy from Hell : I had the gearbox overhauled by a specialist that was recommended to me here in Belgium. Didn't he do a good job ? I don't know.

@ Marlin Jack : I don't need a plate to shift. I've been racing since the mid 90's (mostly with a right hand car being a left hand driver) and if you're a racer, you would know that if you shift back from second to first @ 7000 rpm that you have only a split second to react or you loose the car, certainly when you are going up the radillon in Spa Fracorchamps. The way you put it is insulting, let's keep it to that.

quote:

Originally posted by ALFA4FUN:
@ Dave 2811 : the oil I'm using is most certainly not as thick as the one you use. I already chanced the engine oil after one session because when hot, oil pressure dropped below 2 BAR which is to low for a race engine.

We are talking about gear oil, not engine oil. You need GL-4 (or 5 if you can't find 4) 85W-90. If your gear oil is too thin due to heating or there is a friction modifier in the blend, the synchros won't bite and spin up the gearset for a smooth shift.

quote:

Originally posted by ALFA4FUN:

@ Cowboy from Hell : I had the gearbox overhauled by a specialist that was recommended to me here in Belgium. Didn't he do a good job ? I don't know.

You may want to question the specialist and ask him where he sourced the parts, specifically the synchro rings. The factory rings sold by RBT are iron. Some suppliers choose to supply less-expensive brass synchros. Lloyd Butfoy (RBT) does not approve of that substitution.

I also believe Dave 2811 may be on to something.

Best Wishes

-G