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Use a MIG, and use a Argon CO2 mixture.
It's easier to get a good quality weld with Argon (or a mix) than with plain CO2.

Consider a reconditioned small industrial welder if they are available.

I started with 130amp SIP designed for the DIY market. It was Ok.

Now I use a reconditioned Migatrononic MX180. I got this for 50% of the price of a new one (300 pounds instead of 700).
It is much stronger and much easier to use than the DIY welders I had before and produces a much better weld. It also takes a proper gas bottle (about 4 feet tall) which is a much cheaper way of buying the gas and full size wire reels (5kg or 15kg instead of 0.7kg) which is a much cheaper way to buy the wire.
quote "more rust to cut out. where did they get such poor quality steel"

Not that early Italian steel was any better, but I've heard of "coat hanger" steel used to describe late model chassis'. And lower rear suspension arms pulling through the frame rails on a late model car.

Besides addressing the rust, I would take the time to reinforce and strengthen the entire underbody.
quote:
Originally posted by Mark#6808:
[ It is just I would get fired if I took it home or brought my car into the model shop.
I know you can get an arc welder cheap. but sheet metal needs fineese sometimes.



I suggest Brown Nosing the BOSS! Big Grin[/QUOTE]

How does one brown nose themselves. Big Grin
quote:
Originally posted by DeTom:
How does one brown nose themselves. Big Grin


DeTom, I fully understand keeping the "hobby shop" out of the work place, but every once in awhile, you owe it to yourself to say, "I can cause I'm the Boss, you know the guy that lays awake until 4:30 am fretting about work, the same guy that takes his paycheck after everyone else, the guy that makes it all happen. So don't fire yourself for playing with the cool toyz at work, that's why their there.

Regards Mark

PS send a note to yourself "Give Detom a Raise"
Besides addressing the rust, I would take the time to reinforce and strengthen the entire underbody.[/QUOTE]

are there any idears for doing this, is it something i need to address bearing in mind this will only be a road car with around 300-320 bhp. i was planning to modify the rear suspension brace, seen a cool pic on the pi site of a cross braced set up. looks fantastic so i guss my reason for doing it would be a bit more cosmetic than structural
quote:
Originally posted by gt5-9189:
Besides addressing the rust, I would take the time to reinforce and strengthen the entire underbody.


are there any idears for doing this, is it something i need to address bearing in mind this will only be a road car with around 300-320 bhp. i was planning to modify the rear suspension brace, seen a cool pic on the pi site of a cross braced set up. looks fantastic so i guss my reason for doing it would be a bit more cosmetic than structural[/QUOTE]


GT5, You are in the best situation to do the WHOLE CAR the right way the first time. Besides the typical bolt in chassis stiffening stuff, go the extra mile and do ALL of the weld in sheet metal renforcements. In the grand scheme of your restoration it is nickel and dime stuff. The most expensive part about doing this type of work is paint and your going to do that anyway. It will pay off in the future whether or not you keep it (peace of mind) or sell it (resale value).

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