So been using the 50/50 mix and I got one bolt out. Just one so far. I will add some more mixture on today and let sit for 2 days. I also tried the impact gun on low torque. Nothing yet but maybe with a couple more days seepage there will be progress. I think the impact gun will be difficult to get at the bolts closer to the bulk head.
Khan, How much was the steering rack rebuild?
$518
You are definitely have the right approach in trying to remove the header bolts since, without the benefit of having the motor out of the car, you will have a heck of a time if you do break a bolt.
When you finally get the old bolts out, consider using good quality bolts as suggested before. Also, use anti-seize compound the threads of the new bolts to make future removals easier.
As for locking methods, I've looked at the ones that you've mentioned as well as others discussed somewhere else on this forum in the past and I went with nord-lock washers on SS ARP bolts and have had very good luck with them. Check out their web site for more info - www.nord-lock.com.
Good luck and happy wrenching.
When you finally get the old bolts out, consider using good quality bolts as suggested before. Also, use anti-seize compound the threads of the new bolts to make future removals easier.
As for locking methods, I've looked at the ones that you've mentioned as well as others discussed somewhere else on this forum in the past and I went with nord-lock washers on SS ARP bolts and have had very good luck with them. Check out their web site for more info - www.nord-lock.com.
Good luck and happy wrenching.
LIV1S - Interesting design. How difficult is it to loosen?
quote:Originally posted by Husker:
LIV1S - Interesting design. How difficult is it to loosen?
The beauty of the design is that there is the ease of use to bolt and unbolt them. The locks work when compressed by the bolt heads. I've heard that the Nord locks have also been used on ZF trans ring gear bolts instead of safety wiring but I'm not about to do that convesion on mine since I've already gone through the trouble of safety wiring them.
quote:I will add some more mixture on today and let sit for 2 days
I like PB Blaster for stuck bolts. The stuff will work itself into the threads of a bolt and help lossen em up.
Jeff
I now have a whopping 3 bolts out! Only 13 more to go! Anyway, I have a question about working IN the engine compartment. Instead of leaning over the fender, has anyone crawled inside the engine standing on the trans? Is that advisable?
quote:has anyone crawled inside the engine standing on the trans? Is that advisable?
I do that all the time. I put one of those foam type knee boards (or a thick blanket) on top of the ZF and/or the camber bar. Just be careful not to break the ZF vent tube. I also cover the vent (large opening) on the bellhousing so that I don't drop anything inside.
John
I crawl on top of the ZF all the time...I can't see that my/your body weight would harm the transaxle. I've seen the ZF transaxle used as the actual load bearing member in a friends late 60's early 70's vintage Can Am car chassis. McLaren was the first to start doing it where they actually removed the chassis members that ran to the back of the transaxle to support the transaxle. They hung the suspension off the transaxle and eliminated all supports using the engine/transaxle combo to support the rear of the car. The ZF was not the box of choice for most McLarens...it was the Hewland LG 600 because it would handle 800 horsepower with no problems. But there were a few cars that swapped in a ZF because it was a fully sychro'd box and easier to drive. Your weight shouldn't hurt the box.
Oh that is great news. I think this might help me get at some of the bolts without causing "leverage dents" on the body 
Although my body has lots of dents anyway so who would know?
Anyway, I am being so super careful with these bolts that I am now on week 3 on trying to get the headers off. Slow and easy....if I get frustrated or can't get a good line on the bolt, I move on...
Although my body has lots of dents anyway so who would know?Anyway, I am being so super careful with these bolts that I am now on week 3 on trying to get the headers off. Slow and easy....if I get frustrated or can't get a good line on the bolt, I move on...
The only reason that I use the padding is for my knees.
John
John
Just had a thought...what about putting anti-seize or??? on the bolts prior to putting them back in. Then safety wire them so they don't back out.
I just used a set of 12 points on my Falcon headers from percy, I think. They have a set screw that pushes a plunger in the center of the bolt. The plunger works to spread the ends of the bolts that are sloted. They basically mushroom inside the head to hold the bolts in place. A friend recommened them. He has used them for years on a couple of drag cars and they have never loosened
I plan on using anti-seize for the new bolts. I have actually heard that Malox is the best antiseize for header bolts (was on Gearz TV w/ Stacey David). I'll stick to my normal anti-seize but thought that was interesting.
I got two more bolts out today and my rear exhaust removed (each bolt at the collector sheared off!). Only 11 more to go!
I got two more bolts out today and my rear exhaust removed (each bolt at the collector sheared off!). Only 11 more to go!
I got the driver side header off!! GO ME!!!
Wow! Never thought I'd be rooting for bolts to come out...but I feel your pain and the daily updates, bolt by bolt, drags me in deeper every day. Could this be considered a compulsion?
HOORAY!!!! GO!! GO!! GO!!...
quote:I have actually heard that Malox is the best antiseize for header bolts
That's assuming you have any Malox left after the stress of getting the bolts off in the first place!
Are you still working with the ATF/Acetone and Patience, or have you found something better at this point?
You're past the 1/2 way point, woo hoo! I think this might actually be more interesting than most of the shows on TV these days!
Love it when the Georgia boys get the job done!
Mike
Mike