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quote:
Originally posted by "72 GTS:
Hello
How much do they cost ? (Pat Mical's headers)
regards
Philippe

It would be best you contact Pat for a price.
http://www.patsauto.com

He sells a 3" and a 2.5" connecting pipe, which is what I have. He also has mufflers but last time I saw Pat, they were a different style to the stock ones. I wanted the stock look from the outside which is why I had my GTS mufflers modified to fit.
quote:
Originally posted by SF:
Thank's for sharing

The "Pat Mical's" looks like those PIM sell, I'm I wrong?
Is there a cone in the center of the collector and did they fit right in (bolt on...)?
Anders

They don't look the same to me. Tube bends seem different, no O2 bung, shorter collector, collector at the flange seems it tapers down and on one picture the flange at the heads is a different way up i.e. the solid piece joining each port. There could be different revisions or updates on Pat's or PIM..
Pat's headers and extension pipe fit very nice.
Highly recommend.
quote:
Originally posted by "72 GTS:
Up !
I guess those are GTS headers ?
thanks
Philippe

The headers and mufflers I pictured on page 2 were purchased from Hall Pantera over 30 years ago and I think he said it was a european GTS setup.
The ones you are looking at are different to mine. "Solid" exhaust flange, welding does not look so neat, the collector looks bigger, the flange which connects to the muffler is welded in place. Should work though, just check how they mate up to your mufflers.
bdud
Yes, they look like European GTS Headers, do not now what the differens is between "stock GTS" and aftermarket GTS headers.
They are Tri-Y style and Pat's are 4-1. I wonder if you are running a windsor because that they are connected in another order than the GTS headers because of the firing order?
Anders
Those are what I have. IF you look at the pictures of the factory Gp4 cars, the exhausts exited where Halls do. That is in the original notch for the street headers.

What I like about them, which is what many do not, is that the left and right side headers are separate and bolt together in the center.

This is a practical solution to serviceability.

If you go to one piece headers, with the left and right side built to each other, consider how you are going to install them onto the heads.

Also consider that once the headers are run and get hot, when they cool down they warp.

The one piece will loosen up the headerbolts constantly, and if you remove them from the engine, they will be very, very difficult to reinstall because they have warped.

Halls solution is much more practical and the exhaust exit into the original location is a better solution. They are also 2" primaries, not 1-3/4". 2" is correct. 1-3/4" is not unless you are running the C302B Motorsport aluminum high port heads with the 1.60 exhaust valves.

2" is correct for a 4v iron head or my A3 heads with 1.71 exhaust valves.

Plus, you can not possibly beat Halls price.
I am also using the Hall 180's with some modifications. W first test fit the headers on the engine when the engine was on the ground. They fit but needed a little tweaking. I decided I didn't like the slip fittings so we welded three bolt flanges to each side. I also cut off the collectors and exited the exhaust straight to the back using 3" collectors. The two main reasons for going to 180's is A the sound. B I'm not really keen on the Panteras exposed mufflers. We closed off the notches in the rear valance where the original mufflers were. Looks much better IMO.

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To get the most out of 180's they should exit straight out of the car as close together as possible for that F-1 sound ( V-8 chain saw ), I know theirs a thread for a forum member who was making them about 2 or 3 months ago and his were right on. Another concern is, can you get at the plugs and removing the valve covers. The quality
function of the primary's to the collectors, size,length and the rotation of the exhaust pulse are critical. See mine on page #2

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