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Fill it up with wheel bearing grease, leave no air in it.
The hyd. method was used to remove the pilot roller bearing. This incert has only a mild seam and is almost a flush, I don't think there is enough surface area to push it out. At this piont I would just like to confirm this proceedure... I.E... Does this incert come out??.. Is there any other methods availible besides wet paper/grease or a bearing puller??... Do I understand this evolution correctly??... I don't want to start getting rough with it until I have a clear understanding 
.... Thanks for any help/advice...
.... Thanks for any help/advice...
If the insert material is not hardened, the following will work.
Measure the internal diameter of the insert and buy yourself the nearest size bottoming tap. You may have to drill it first with the proper tap drill depending upon how close you are to nominal size for the tap. Get yourself a bolt and nut of that size and make a bushing that has an OD that lands on your crank (or perhaps your flywheel though you may need to remove those ARP bolts) that has a large enough inside diameter such that the insert can be raised into the bushing. Thread the nut on the bolt with a washer under it, put the bolt through the bushing and threaded into the hole you tapped in your insert, and then crank on the nut bearing against the top side of the bushing. It will back right out.
Kelly
Measure the internal diameter of the insert and buy yourself the nearest size bottoming tap. You may have to drill it first with the proper tap drill depending upon how close you are to nominal size for the tap. Get yourself a bolt and nut of that size and make a bushing that has an OD that lands on your crank (or perhaps your flywheel though you may need to remove those ARP bolts) that has a large enough inside diameter such that the insert can be raised into the bushing. Thread the nut on the bolt with a washer under it, put the bolt through the bushing and threaded into the hole you tapped in your insert, and then crank on the nut bearing against the top side of the bushing. It will back right out.
Kelly
If it's metal? You can do some welding on the inside. When it cools down it will shrink.
I did read through it... Then I wanted to confirm it applied to -2?, secret spot welds?, the unknown?.. etc??. I have a better understanding now, I just wanted to proceed with caution and confirm. I have no faer now ... Thanks you guys!!....
... Thanks you guys!!....
...I've Never seen 'This' Before!! What You have there, is a 'Custom' Machined Sleeve that allowed the use of a Smaller Diameter Bearing, that 'just
happened' to fit the ZF Input Shaft! Probably aquired at a Bicycle Shop!
The welding/shrinking works!! We use it all the time down at our Machine Shop to remove bearing Races that we Can't Get 'Behind' to Knock them out!
If You Don't have a ARC Welder, here are a couple other ways to get it out.
The steel looks soft.
Get ahold of one of those 'handles' at the hardware store; that holds ONE end of a 'Hacksaw' Blade, leaving the other end hanging OUT Free. Saw all the way through the side of the Sleeve 'Ring'.
The Idea is to cut a Slot in the wall so the Sleeve can collapse, relieving pressure, and the sleeve will slide right out.
Don't want to saw!! You can Drill through the wall, You only have to drill one spot so you can 'Break' it. Also!
You can use a 'Dremel' Tool OR High Speed Grinder with a Grinding Stone!
You just have to cut through enough to release the Interference Fit!
Ask Jim Cozzolino! He had the same problem and had to grind through a HARDENED bearing Race, to get it out! He had said that once done "It Popped Right Out!!". Be sure to wear Eye Protection!! If You 'Gouge-Up' the 'Crank Pocket' just a Little in that One spot, Don't worry! The Bearing will still Stay Put when You Hammer it In! (Use Protection on the Bearing FACE!) Last!! Should the Sleeve NOT be in very Tight, You can try using a Long Bar or Pipe that JUST Fits Inside, then PRY and TIP Side to Side, Up and Down; this may 'Wedge' the Sleeve Out! Good-Luck with It!
happened' to fit the ZF Input Shaft! Probably aquired at a Bicycle Shop!
The welding/shrinking works!! We use it all the time down at our Machine Shop to remove bearing Races that we Can't Get 'Behind' to Knock them out!
If You Don't have a ARC Welder, here are a couple other ways to get it out.
The steel looks soft.
Get ahold of one of those 'handles' at the hardware store; that holds ONE end of a 'Hacksaw' Blade, leaving the other end hanging OUT Free. Saw all the way through the side of the Sleeve 'Ring'.
The Idea is to cut a Slot in the wall so the Sleeve can collapse, relieving pressure, and the sleeve will slide right out.
Don't want to saw!! You can Drill through the wall, You only have to drill one spot so you can 'Break' it. Also!
You can use a 'Dremel' Tool OR High Speed Grinder with a Grinding Stone!
You just have to cut through enough to release the Interference Fit!
Ask Jim Cozzolino! He had the same problem and had to grind through a HARDENED bearing Race, to get it out! He had said that once done "It Popped Right Out!!". Be sure to wear Eye Protection!! If You 'Gouge-Up' the 'Crank Pocket' just a Little in that One spot, Don't worry! The Bearing will still Stay Put when You Hammer it In! (Use Protection on the Bearing FACE!) Last!! Should the Sleeve NOT be in very Tight, You can try using a Long Bar or Pipe that JUST Fits Inside, then PRY and TIP Side to Side, Up and Down; this may 'Wedge' the Sleeve Out! Good-Luck with It!
Yikes!!... Leave it to me to get some funky one off problem. I'm just trying to do the right thing and it turns into an engine pull...lol... OK well, I think I will cut the a hacksaw blade width out of the side and collaps it... Thanks Marlin!!...
OK, well... I ended up threading it. It came right out, took ten minutes ... Thanks you guys!!!....
... Thanks you guys!!!....