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Never have been a wizard at carbs so I'll go to the masses.

It seems over the last year that my car starts fine when it's cold, but once it has been running it seems flooded. Need to push the pedal to the floor to start and it belches black smoke.

Now, it smells like gas when it's cold (have found no fuel anywhere) and it acts as it is flooded, again having to hold the pedal to the floor.

Runs fine once it's started although the idle seems to stay high (not sure if this is related)

I assume the problem in with the floats or float level?

Any suggeations are appreciated.

Chip
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It is most likely the float levels are to high.

This is an immediate danger of fire hazard and you should stop right there and correct it before it catches fire.

Having said that, it could be flooding for a couple of other reasons. 1)needle and seat need to be replaced, 2)brass float colapsed or partially collapsed 3) too much fuel pressure.

With an aftermarket Holley you need to change the automatic choke thermostat to a 351c specific one. If you have an aftermarket automatic choke, you have the wrong choke thermostat.

The Clevelands are particularly susceptable to this.
You need a choke thermostat from a factory setup for a Cleveland.

They can be hard to find. I find a 68-70 428 Mustand CJ carb choke as an acceptable substitution.

They open and close at different rates then the universal aftermarket chokes supplied with universal applications.

This is particularly noticiable on warmed up or partially warmed engines. It makes them hard to start and prone to stalling until hot. Then it makes the hot engine hard to start.

Get the right choke thermostat but check the fuel levels first unless you want to do a tailgate party and use your Pantera as a Hibachi.
Last edited by panteradoug
Guys,
Do you find that you need a choke for cold starts?

My Holley 700 was fixed wide open.
When I replaced it with a 600 I removed the choke completely.
Just need a couple of pumps on the gas to get the motor started and a couple of minutes (at most) of warming up before the it'll idle properly.

Starts fine even when it's near freezing.
I think that it's not whether or not you need a choke. The choke itself primarily makes the car start easier. It also speeds the idle up at partial opening to compensate for low engine rpm due to cooler engine and air temps.

If one is not particular about what rpm the engine idles whether it be high or low you can run without it particularly if your car runs a heavy idle like a Holley "double-pumper" does.

A Holley with a vacuum secondary and from OEM would need a choke to operate at all in cold weather. You would find that at 20 degrees something like a 1848 wouldn't idle at all under 2000 rpms without a choke.

The idle circuit on that carb is set lean. Without the choke flap there would be no way to richen the mixture automatically at idle.
quote:
Originally posted by Chip:
Never have been a wizard at carbs so I'll go to the masses.

It seems over the last year that my car starts fine when it's cold, but once it has been running it seems flooded. Need to push the pedal to the floor to start and it belches black smoke.

Now, it smells like gas when it's cold (have found no fuel anywhere) and it acts as it is flooded, again having to hold the pedal to the floor.

Runs fine once it's started although the idle seems to stay high (not sure if this is related)

I assume the problem in with the floats or float level?

Any suggeations are appreciated.

Chip


Check the power valve to make sure it isn't blown and look at the needle and seat. It doesn't take much debris to have a needle valve leak and flood the carb.
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