IR injection maintenance

Moving parts always like oil. A drop here and there can't hurt.

Inside the cable too !

have you ever considered one of the duPont "waxy" lubercaints. usually marketed as bicycle chain lube or similair. out of the bottle the liquid penetrates, then drys. I have used for small high quaility rod end bearings (and for other things)

Thanks for the tips. I though smaller heim joints always were not lubed to keep the wear down.

I have some chain wax I can use, along with 20 other lubes that would also work.

I'm taking a break from the car for a while.

Trying to drive it weekly has me chasing one thing after another, it making me have bad thoughts.

Sor you're saying these need oiling or greasing?

My experiance with similair rod end brgs is not fuel linkage, but I would say they NEED to to be lubricated. Oil is not going to stay and will require more frequent application. I would prefer a dry FILM, thus the lubrication with less attaction and retention of dust and contaminates. grease would be the most recomended.

I can't tell from the photo, but the assembly of rod end connections does require a certain amount of consideration to ensure force is transmitted with out binding. I have seen linkage design and sold for mega bucks that required corrections to make it operate proper. I have some good war stories about such.

and back to your original query...Dry is bad unless the rod ends are pre lubricated with a dry film coating or either the ball or race is made from a low friction material. the steel on steel or steel on brass would benifit from a perodic lube

Yes, i can not imagine why they should be run dry.

Maybe in a very dusty situation where the oil might attract and hold on to dust, but your engine looks pretty clean, and i would not think that you drive your Pantera in the dirt so a drop of oil is a good thing.

Use oil, you will be lucky to get any kind of grease into them. You are asking about "maintenance" this is maintenance.

Ps: i do not like where that spring is attached.

From the photo it seems like it is hooked around the bolt holding the heim joint, the hook of the spring could get hung up on the linkage or perhaps the side of the joint itself.

Springs should have dedicated mounting points, not just be hap hazardly hooked onto any seemingly convenient bolt or piece of metal.

This type of thing is the cause of many "sticky" throttles.


The Devil is in the detail.

Doesn't the throttle bodie springload return the throttle shaft/shafts? Is there a bell crank in the center, this could/also have a return spring? Does the shfts return freely witout springs?
SF

Doesn't the throttle bodie springload return the throttle shaft/shafts? Is there a bell crank in the center, this could/also have a return spring? Does the shafts return freely witout springs?
SF

It's appears in the photo that the spring is rubbing against the linkage rod.

Plus the "90 degree bend" in the spring should be CENTERED in the spring, NOT at the outside edge of the spring.

Centering the bend in the middle of the spring, gives a direct pull as opposed to the FLEX the outside current bend will exhibit...Mark

I haven't messed with the linkages or throttle yet.

I used my unisync tool and all holes were close enough to each other to not need to touch anything.

I also found out just how sensitive the system is, micro screw adjustments made big changes so I put everything back exactly how it was. I actually lucked out and it idles and tad smoother now lol.

I'm having issues with my throttle sticking, but I have to check my pedal and cable first before anything. Once those check out, I may look into having an expert adjust the linkages and hopefully tune my ancient Haltech ECU.

I believe my pedal or cable is hanging up on the side center console cover. This issue arose only after I removed and reinstalled the console side cover.

The way this car has been going, I touch one thing, and it causes 10 new problems, so presently I'm going to inspect things VERY closely, as I CANNOT have a sticking throttle, obviously.

The spring, and all linkages are as I bought them, so I have no way of knowing if anything is correct, but it's good to know I should lube my heim fittings.

quote:

I believe my pedal or cable is hanging up on the side center console cover. This issue arose only after I removed and reinstalled the console side cover.

It's an EASY fix to make sure your gas pedal is not hanging up on the plastic panel on the side of the center console. Simply add a screw and a washer to secure the panel and it will afford you an extra inch or two of clearance for your shoe on the pedal.

And here's the same fix on a pre-L Pantera with the more flimsy side panel/cover and two screws...

First off, the heim joints are stainless steel balls in nylon races. You do not lube them at all.

Second, if the throttle linkage is assembled correctly it should work free and easy with just the return spring in the Pantera throttle cable.

If you will remember, I have previously advised that you need to determine if it is the throttle cable that is hanging up.

You do that by disconnecting it from the throttle bodies and operating it. This will at least eliminate that cable from the issue if it is ok.

It should work easily and snap back when you release the pedal. There shouldn't be the slightest indication of it hanging.

If it does hang, you have two choices. Fix it or replace it BUT remember, these cables have an inherent internal issue that the new one will also have. Fixing that issue seems to me to be the permanent fix?

The other thing is that with a throttle return spring in the linkage of too much pressure OR in the WRONG location, you could have worn throttle shafts in the throttle bodies themselves.

Do the throttle cable test. Then go to step 2.

Thanks Doug, that's exactly what I plan to do.

I am aware that too much spring will wear shafts, and thanks for the tip about the heims.

They looked to me like the type you don't lube.

I'm dealing with the car as it was sold to me, so everything is as Roger had it, correct or not. My intentions are to get everything right, but there's a lot to do.

I'm going to disconnect the throttle cable and check that it's moving freely or replace it.

I'll also add the screws to the side panel, my car didn't have any screws there.

Ok. Great but remember with the pantera cable the internal shaft is too long for the center located bell crank and needs to be removed. The new one too.

I'll see if I can't get a good pic, but my setup doesn't use a bellcrank. It's set up with the cable entering at 90 to the stacks, and has a couple cross shafts with heim ends.

Again, it's all as the PO had it, and I think a lot was fabbed, so it's not standard.

Here's a pic of the throttle cable routing as it goes to the linkage.

I also noticed what looks to me like the fuel rail is leaking, between the cast pieces, where the tube sticks in.

If I go pulling this stuff apart, am I going to be able to find O-rings and whatever I need to put it back, leak-free?

I will probably pull the seats and firewall upholstry, so I can remove the throttle cable and inspect it properly, replace it if necessary.

Now I've found this leaking fuel rail, this car is overwhelming me with sh!t to do on it!

I got the electrical figured out finally, now it's on to the throttle cable and fuel rail, then hopefully find somebody to help me tune the ancient Haltech system. I'm OK with it running fat though, the plugs show it's running OK so the fatness is just idle and feathered throttle.

I love working on cars and stuff, but the enjoyment time-to-work on the car time ratio is off kilter.

I'll get it straightened out soon enough.