I have heard/seen heat wrench used to force/burn fluid out from a brake lining that got "wet".
Just finished removing the caliper. No apparent seal leaking so happy that the seal I removed and reinstalled is holding. Pistons move freely.
I'm letting the pads soak now and will attempt to treat the surface when I can get back to them.
I'll update later with results.
I'm letting the pads soak now and will attempt to treat the surface when I can get back to them.
I'll update later with results.
Richard
I didn't have much fluid leaking but any is too much obviously. Haven't heard of such a heat tool.
I'll see how the soaking and cleaning goes.
I gave the seal a good pressure test with the boot off and found no seepage.
Believe I need to do a better bleeding process also.
I didn't have much fluid leaking but any is too much obviously. Haven't heard of such a heat tool.
I'll see how the soaking and cleaning goes.
I gave the seal a good pressure test with the boot off and found no seepage.
Believe I need to do a better bleeding process also.
Larry
I sent you a PM with my address. Just wondering if you received it and sent the seal(s). Apparently there is still some seepage although I thought it was holding.
The one in question is for the small piston.
Please excuse me if as a beggar I seem impatient or demanding.
Bob
I sent you a PM with my address. Just wondering if you received it and sent the seal(s). Apparently there is still some seepage although I thought it was holding.
The one in question is for the small piston.
Please excuse me if as a beggar I seem impatient or demanding.
Bob
There are guys on the Pinzgauer forum who recommend dousing an oil-soaked pad with gasoline and then setting it on fire. It's supposed to burn the oil out. ??? I've never tried it personally.
This might also be a good time for a reminder about not heating up brake cleaner, in case anybody isn't aware of the danger. http://www2.worksafebc.com/i/p...s/2013/ws_13_09.html
This might also be a good time for a reminder about not heating up brake cleaner, in case anybody isn't aware of the danger. http://www2.worksafebc.com/i/p...s/2013/ws_13_09.html
Mailed one small seal Monday.
Trying to rescue a contaminated $8 brake pad on a $50,000 car is ludicrous. Probably also dangerous.
Plaintiff’s Lawyer “…could you tell the court how much you saved by performing the “internet shade tree remedy” on the part you didn’t want to place the day before you veered into the children’s play ground?”
Larry
Appreciate you sending the seal. I'm going to see if I can match with one from a parts supplier.
I'll be in touch.
Thanks for your help,
Bob
Appreciate you sending the seal. I'm going to see if I can match with one from a parts supplier.
I'll be in touch.
Thanks for your help,
Bob
do you think it might be a standard size?
here is a metric oring chart
http://www.hitechseals.com/products/O-Rings-met.asp
here is a metric oring chart
http://www.hitechseals.com/products/O-Rings-met.asp
Gentlemen
You make good points regarding the salvage of parts rather than replacement for both costs and safety reasons.
My pad in particular had very little exposure to fluid and I just wanted to clean the surface properly since my pads are in good shape.
As you know sometimes it's the challenge and satisfaction you get from repairing rather than replacing regardless of costs but your points are well taken.
Larry was kind enough to send me a new seal and I want to find if there are seals available without buying new kits since I rebuilt calipers only a few months ago, and in the event another fails. I hope my issue with that one seal was my failure to properly prepare the the groove before installing the new seal since no others have failed (as of yet).
Costs for new kits aren't outrageous from some vendors when you consider we are driving vintage sports cars. A rubber o ring if available is a lot cheaper than a new set of kits though when only one or two o rings are required.
Regarding new pads, what do you recommend for stock calipers?
Thanks for the chart and comments
Bob
You make good points regarding the salvage of parts rather than replacement for both costs and safety reasons.
My pad in particular had very little exposure to fluid and I just wanted to clean the surface properly since my pads are in good shape.
As you know sometimes it's the challenge and satisfaction you get from repairing rather than replacing regardless of costs but your points are well taken.
Larry was kind enough to send me a new seal and I want to find if there are seals available without buying new kits since I rebuilt calipers only a few months ago, and in the event another fails. I hope my issue with that one seal was my failure to properly prepare the the groove before installing the new seal since no others have failed (as of yet).
Costs for new kits aren't outrageous from some vendors when you consider we are driving vintage sports cars. A rubber o ring if available is a lot cheaper than a new set of kits though when only one or two o rings are required.
Regarding new pads, what do you recommend for stock calipers?
Thanks for the chart and comments
Bob
For the fronts - Porterfield R4-S Compound.
Porterfield Pantera Front Pads
They have the metal pad parts and cast the brake friction material on it.
R4-S Description
A set is $140 (plus shipping).
Rocky
PS. I'd love to source new O-rings too. Is there some material that is specified / required to work in brake fluid?
Porterfield Pantera Front Pads
They have the metal pad parts and cast the brake friction material on it.
R4-S Description
A set is $140 (plus shipping).
Rocky
PS. I'd love to source new O-rings too. Is there some material that is specified / required to work in brake fluid?
Maybe some one knows for sure what parts kits are made from. looks like EDPM would be a good choice
BTW...You do know the square cut is used to allow the piston to "pull back" when pedal is released.
( I wonder if the quad would give more pull back?)
(intersting, i just googled and used the best looking compatibility chart, however I noticed it shows SBR excellent for mineral oils where I thought it was poor)
BTW...You do know the square cut is used to allow the piston to "pull back" when pedal is released.
( I wonder if the quad would give more pull back?)
(intersting, i just googled and used the best looking compatibility chart, however I noticed it shows SBR excellent for mineral oils where I thought it was poor)
Attachments
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I finally got around to swapping the pads left and right since the car was still pulling to the left.
Yep! She pulls right now as I hoped it would. Amazing how little fluid it takes to ruin a pad.
New pads are on the way but I couldn't find any at a price of $8 though.
Thanks for all the advice and especially to Larry for the seal.
Bob
Yep! She pulls right now as I hoped it would. Amazing how little fluid it takes to ruin a pad.
New pads are on the way but I couldn't find any at a price of $8 though.
Thanks for all the advice and especially to Larry for the seal.
Bob
quote:Originally posted by JFB #05177:
Plaintiff’s Lawyer “…could you tell the court how much you saved by performing the “internet shade tree remedy” on the part you didn’t want to place the day before you veered into the children’s play ground?”
That gave me a well needed chuckle for the day!
You are like the Sherlock Holmes of brake mechanics.
Congrats on finding (and solving) the problem.
Rocky
Congrats on finding (and solving) the problem.
Rocky
Looking for small caliper seals. Very hard, if not impossible to find.
12.66 O.D. x 8mm I.D. x 2.0 mm thick. Square cut.
Should be EPDM material. If these can't be had what other option? And no, replacing the whole caliper is not an option.
12.66 O.D. x 8mm I.D. x 2.0 mm thick. Square cut.
Should be EPDM material. If these can't be had what other option? And no, replacing the whole caliper is not an option.
What I cannot find anywhere here on this board, is the stock piston diameters and the seal paint codes for the Girling calipers front or rear.
Girling pistons were generally standard sizes, not yet metric, and the seals had a three color paint code on the backsides of the seal.
Once you have this information, you can successfully bug Girling distributors for parts until they go mad....!
One last question: The front calipers must be parted in order to get the pistons out? You can't sneak them out without busting the seals on the x-over lines? (On the Mangusta with the HUGE pistons up front....there is no need to bust the caliper apart....the pistons pop out...)
Ciao!
Steve
Girling pistons were generally standard sizes, not yet metric, and the seals had a three color paint code on the backsides of the seal.
Once you have this information, you can successfully bug Girling distributors for parts until they go mad....!
One last question: The front calipers must be parted in order to get the pistons out? You can't sneak them out without busting the seals on the x-over lines? (On the Mangusta with the HUGE pistons up front....there is no need to bust the caliper apart....the pistons pop out...)
Ciao!
Steve
Just for the record, here are the small seals:
https://www.pegasusautoracing....tails.asp?RecID=1144
My dimensions were off.
https://www.pegasusautoracing....tails.asp?RecID=1144
My dimensions were off.
FWIW on this rather old thread, Larry Stock or Pantera Parts Connection in Carson City, NV offers rebuilt stock front & rear calipers using reconditioned castings & pistons, along with new lines & other parts as needed. I think he also has OEM-type brake pads. OEM pads seem to be made of an extremely hard friction compound that lasts like iron but will not stop the car like your Porterfield R-4S pads. Being bonded linings, working too hard on removing leaked brake fluid may well also debond the glued-on friction linings from the steel backing plates. That will prove exciting in a panic stop when you really need them.
There are two different types of OEM pads, too; one has laterally drilled holes for wires used to detect badly worn pads by grounding the wire to the rotor, which turns on the red brake warning light on the dash. Our '72 L had such pads. Later OEM replacements do not have wires. If necessary for extreme show purposes, any pads can be drilled for fresh wires; originals had linen insulation typical of '50s english cars.
There are two different types of OEM pads, too; one has laterally drilled holes for wires used to detect badly worn pads by grounding the wire to the rotor, which turns on the red brake warning light on the dash. Our '72 L had such pads. Later OEM replacements do not have wires. If necessary for extreme show purposes, any pads can be drilled for fresh wires; originals had linen insulation typical of '50s english cars.