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1. I've bought square SEV Marchal lamps, looking like the ones in the brochure, mounted below the bumper. Does anyone have them originally, so I can see exactly where to drill? I plan to use them as the in my country legally required driving lamps.

2. Headers, has anybody found that Cleveland headers for another car fits our Longchamp? Or with minimum of customization?
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Sorry I have been working like a dog, so I did not see you posting until the one today.

My car has only a tail fog lamp, and I can not find any of my aunt's pictures to see where she mounted hers. I am assuming that they would have been just inside the head lamps.

As for the headers, I never thought about it, I assumed, wrongly, that the headers were the same as the pantera. I would assumed that you could use mustang headers, as they should have been about the same, setup. I will look around and see if I can get more details.

Thanks We

The picture of Roland's car is one fix point so to speak. Another is the green car in the brochure with the white on the front page, those lamps look further apart and higher up. It's not that I'm a freak about originality (well maybe a little), but since I'm going to drill holes or fabricate bracket, I'd like to do it right the first time.

I've not heard of the SEV lamps - web link?

I converted my car using some old Ur Quattro parts (ended up just using the headlamp backing plates) and had new lamp surrounds and front bumper moulded in fibreglass from originals off the very last GTSE which lives near me here in London.

Genuine Ferrari 308 front sidelights & indicators from Eurospares also based in the UK.

This is a magazine shot of the very car I moulded my parts off;

and here's my grocery getter;

Here the lamps are installed, f...... beautiful in my opinion. I have advocated for them being further to the corners, the brochure shows that, but apparently Paolo and Guido at the factory hadn't seen the brochure, because all pictures I could find of real cars with lamps show them further in, like Roland's.

I've also wired them, but no bulbs in yet. The local bulb-expert-website genius didn't send what I asked for. I need around 20W H3s for these driving lights, and I ordered 24V 70W, that should get me in the ballpark. He sent me 12V 100W which almost blinded me when I tested unknowingly Eeker


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So lamps are OK
Headers are not, vacuumed the market, got the last measurements from a vendor today. Strangely the right header is still horizontal rearwards, going smack into the firewall. Why? I understand that they can not go downwards in the same place as the ones on the left, they can't be mirrors, since the right cylinder bank exhaust ports are a little further towards the front, but why is it straight back. Is it to clear some Mustang's something?

So for now I've given up. Roland has shown me tri-Y headers, but I haven't seen any Longchamp with normal headers. I can build my own, but knowing full well it'll be expensive in materials, a lot of work and not very well flowing, I'm not too keen to do it.

Maybe the local Mustang shop (B. S. Auto) has a set of old Cleveland headers I can play with...


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Last edited by noquarter
Hi Mikael,
my car is number 2061 so the early build before the motors were moved back in the series 2. My original headers looked like a special fabrication - mild steel flange and short pipework.

I had exhaust leaks from the time I got the car. Because of the 4V heads, there is very little area around the ports to allow much pressure on the gaskets. With a 10mm thick flange the 2 studs would not apply enough pressure on the opposite corners of each port. As a result the car used to develop manifold leaks frequently.

And as you know it is very testing to access the manifold bolts in this vehicle. After many times removing and replacing the gaskets I needed a much stiffer manifold. Fabricating new headers would still rely on a 10mm flat flange, with no additional stiffness contributed by the pipework. What I needed was a cast iron assembly, which is much stiffer and less prone to deform when bolted up. The flanges are about 30mm thick.

There were no cast iron manifolded 4V clevelands sold in Australia, so with my exhaust guy we modified a set of 2V manifolds (very cheaply available 2nd hand). They have the same bolt pattern but the exhaust outlet on the right hand bank needed to be cut and turned to point out to the side. The cast iron was cut and carefully tig welded into the new position.

Obviously the ports on the 2V manifold were smaller than the 4V heads, so we took a standard mild steel 2V header flange (10mm thick) and I port matched it to the head side.

This flange is used like a thick gasket. The work took many hours with a die grinder, but I ended up with an arrangement that has not leaked and has been on the car for around 15 years. Instead of gaskets I used RTV silicon.

The LHS photo shows the flange clearly, and that there is plenty of room for the pipe joint. The RHS photo shows there was no room for the pipe which is why we welded it up.

hope this helps


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BTW, you asked earlier in this thread - I'm located in central London, UK, literally across the road from the well-known Harrods department store.

Were these headers made specifically for the 3 series Longchamps?

I have even less space that you guys as I have CHI alloy heads now which are taller than the 4V iron heads.

My stock tubular DT exhaust manifolds are an extremely tight fit. I have moved my battery to the boot/trunk and have cut out the battery tray completely. It looks nice and tidy under the bonnet/hood right now.
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