Low oil pressure

There is not a direct connection to an oil passage, but there is a hole drilled between the lower distributor shaft guide hole you refer to and the #1 cam bearing journal. There is a slot in the #1 cam bearing that feeds this hole with oil from the #1 cam bearing oil passage. Oil normally squirts from this hole onto the backside of the upper timing gear, and feeds the lower end of the distributor shaft.

Its hard to say how much difference it would make between having a shaft in the hole and not, since that hole is designed to freely squirt oil on the cam gear already. The slot in the cam bearing that supplies this hole is not very deep, oil flow is restricted already.

George

Thanks George! It was worth the thought i guess. Back to the drawing board.

Thanks
Blaine

Blaine,

on second thought, I was wrong about the hole squirting oil on the back of the cam timing gear, because the cam thrust plate bolts over that hole. Therefore that hole is merely providing oil to where the cam wears against the cam thrust plate. The oil isn't allowed to squirt freely, it is restricted.


Therefore there's more of a possibility that installing a shaft in the distributor shaft guide hole would increase oil pressure at idle.

I didn't think it through last night, I apologize.

George

Just went out and looked at one of my boat anchors (cracked blocks) and there is an oiling hole in the block where the very bottom of the distributor shaft sits. This is the inch long stub that is below the gear. The oil is fed from a hole drilled under the front cam bearing.

So, you have an oil leak and since this is the first thing to be oiled after the pump, you are getting low oil pressure to the engine.

Tell me if I'm wrong here though it should be easy to determine right?

Just stick an old distributor in and see if the pressure goes up.

Excellent info guys. I am starting to get excited again. Unfortunately my turbo oil feed lines pass directly above my distributor hole so I will need to replumb them again possibly my fuel lines as well. That means I cant test this for another few days especially coming into the weekend as I dont have all the fittings to do it with. I have hope once again though. Thanks guys.

Blaine

Blaine
Another thought. Get a spare dist. (junkyard), hack it off just above where the retaining bolt sits, slip it in under the lines.

Just a thought....

Look carefully in the picture. You will see what I use for a oil pump drive. It is an old dizzie cut off. You can even see the little shaft turn when it runs. Someday I will take some aluminum and make a press fit cover for it.

quote:

Originally posted by Fahrenheit351:
Blaine
Another thought. Get a spare dist. (junkyard), hack it off just above where the retaining bolt sits, slip it in under the lines.

Just a thought....

This would work but I plan to go sequential with my car and need a cam sync pulse and the easiest way to do this is with the distributor. I also dont have a spare dizzy around and they want 50 bucks at the salvage yard for an old used one. I will just have to wait till I get things rerouted. It shouldnt be tough. I know you are not a big fan of sequential Dave but my minimum open times are not allowing me to run well at idle and higher vacuum. The sequential swap will allow me to double my pulsewidths on my fuel map as well as bump up my pressure slightly. A win win IMHO.

Blaine

I never said I didnt like sequential. It is just not needed in most situations. In your case it might help. Although, I have used 72lb injectors with batch fire and get quite acceptable idle.

quote:

Originally posted by CrazyDave:
I never said I didnt like sequential. It is just not needed in most situations. In your case it might help. Although, I have used 72lb injectors with batch fire and get quite acceptable idle.

160 pounders here. You see my problem. I have my fuel pressure down to bare minimum just to get it to idle without smoke and at cruise the thing runs at around 10-11 to 1 at MOT. This should get me a little more leeway.

Blaine

quote:

160 pounders here. You see my problem.

160 pounders! Since you said sequential can I assume we're talking eight of them? Should be able to support >1000HP with half that size injector shouldn't you? What's the target number?

Blaine, I'm a mere normally aspirated guy, but can you refer me to a post that describes your build? I'd like to learn a little more about how your configured. Have a gallery posting somewhere?

Can your ECU support two sets of injectors? Adds some complexity of course but many advantages for supporting big power with street manners.

Kelly

My calculations say for my current tune I need 96 lb injectors for a higher BSFC required by a boosted motor. I am running 10 PSI and I am guessing about 1000HP at the motor. My fuel pressure is set to a poor 28 PSI which kills my atomization but it nets me a corrected injector size of 128lb which is small enough for the motor to run decently in the low power range. I eventually plan to up the boost to 18psi which will require a bit more fuel and probably net close to 1200 HP on the motor. Considering the lack of injector sizes above 96 lb/hr the 160's were the only choice. I guess I could have got a custom set from a company like RC but I would rather sacrifice a little idle quality than pay 1600 bucks for a set of injectors.

My ecu supports staged injectors but at this point it would be way too difficult to modify my existing setup. I just dont have the patience or money to do it all over again. I dont have my full build posted anywhere so here goes.

Ford SVO 6010-K351 aluminum dry sump block
3.9 Steel Crankshaft
4.099 Venolia pistons for turbo applications 35cc dish
Manley 6.125 H beam rods
Strokes to within .001
decks to within .002
Setup 0 Balanced
Edelbrock Victor JR. heads 69cc extensively reworked
2.05 stainless intake valves
1.620 stainless exhaust valves
T&D Shaft mount roller rockers
Comp Cams Roller Cam Duration @ .050 248in 252ex
113 deg lobe sep
Danny Bee torrington bearing
180 degree main oiling
Dome oilers
5 Stage Barnes oil pump
Twin Trubonetics T-70 Q trim turbos with .96 A/R turbine housings
Tial 46mm Wastegates 10 PSI springs

That about does it. I know my current transaxle frame setup cant handle the power but I plan to build a full blown race car in the future (distant future)that will be able to handle whatever I throw at it. I also wanted a motor that would not be at full load in the Silver State.

Blaine