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What are you all using for a Master disconnect switch.  I had one of the "green knob" designs on my ground side and it caused a poor start condition to the point I nuked it.  There is an article in Hot Rod magazine where they used the Painless switch below.  Thoughts?  Also, for those running one, did you connect to the positive side or negative side.  There is rationale for both from what I have read.  thanks for your feedback.

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So here is what I did.  Switch was sourced from Painless Wiring but in actuality is a Cole Hersee switch.  Got new pre-terminated battery cables - 1 Gauge units made by Grote sourced at Grainger.  These cables are really nice.  Fitted lengths with various end fittings.  Made bracket from 1/8" aluminum machine screwed into the firewall under the vent area.  Leads run from Bat negative to cold side of switch and hot side of switch to lowest stud on pedal assembly.  Stud was too short to I sourced new 13mm bolt longer that previous and put a permanent nut to secure to the car and put the batt cable on the stud with another nut.  Very positive ground.  I am very pleased to finally have a good kill switch as the old "green knob gizmos" all failed to provide necessary grounding.  I can provide part numbers if anyone is interested.


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  • BAT 1
  • BAT 2

Here’s a picture of mine. I meant to post it earlier, but I wasn’t near my car for a little bit.

I use it all the time, primarily for  disconnection so the battery stays charged, but it’s also great whenever you’re trying to do any electrical work, I don’t want any sparks shooting out at you…

The negative goes through the switch, to the ground.  Very simple wiring and connection….



Images (1)
  • BBB4D1D7-9AED-452E-8E99-5C44DA013B59

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