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Had some valve train noise... I noticed that some pushrods were very loose, but since I hadn't a tick tick, I thought it must be lifters collapsing when engine is not turning. But when I turned the lock nut slightly, the rocker banged down, and now the pushrod was not loose any more. My valve train was binding! How could it? The only thing I had changed during winter were the lock nuts. A-ha! So I took one off, and yes it was deeply scratched, so was the rocker. But why, I got the ones Comp Cam recommends? Here's why. The original locks were .600 OD except the lower 2mm which were .550. The new I got (correct according to Comp Cams catalog) were .600 all the way up and down. And that's too wide for my rockers. Couldn't understand, I have pretty standard Cleveland alu heads and the 1.73 red Comp Cams rockers, I think a lot of us have, right? I called Comp Cams, and while I could hear that they in no way wanted to admit to a problem, they said that the lock nut with only .550 at the bottom was discontinued, and that they didn't have anything smaller than .600. So no help there. I told him that Crane has them in .550 all the way, he said, so use them. So I ordered a set, and put them on tonight. No more binding. Isn't that wild? These red rockers are used by so many people, and they produce locks that don't fit? Am I missing something?

See attached picture. Grind marks visible on rocker both top and bottom. Lock nuts from below:
-Original with .550 bottom 2mm
-New for this winter .600 all the way, grind marks at bottom
-Just bought, .550 all the way

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So now all should be fine, no binding, no unpleasant engine noises. But oh no, now it gets complicated. First a little history. Ever since I got this Pantera with its 600HP 408 MME engine, I've had a challenging idle, with max 10-15 vacuum if all was adjusted perfectly. I thought, wild cam, that's just the way it is, right? But this spring, I've had a much better idle, above 20, idling like a daily driver. I never understood why, the only thing I could think of was that I had had the intake off and on, maybe I had fixed a vacuum leak, but I've had that intake on and off several times, and this is the first time I've had this perfect idle. Couldn't explain it, and still can't. Here comes the problem. Since my valve train doesn't bind anymore, the idle is back to around only 10. How is that possible? How can one set of locks produce a perfect idle (and bind) and another set produce a lousy idle?

I have a theory. Since the locks I put on this winter were binding, when adjusting the rocker lock height, it must have pushed the rocker down "too early", and when the engine then got started the valve spring force etc quickly ground off some of the rockers and locks and allowed the rocker to move up slightly, just like a very loose setting. In theory it could work. To prove my theory and to get back to a 20+ idle, I therefore tried loosening the rocker lock nuts in 1/4 turn increments. Idle got a bit better, but never near the 20+, and then when I continued, they started to tick, so too loose I guess.
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Q1: Anybody else had binding problems with standard Comp Cams valve train parts?

Q2: Any ideas why I had perfect idle with binding lock nuts? And how I get back to perfect 20+ idle?

Q3: How should I adjust these rocker lock nuts? Here's how I've always done it: TDC, cyl 1, tighten until pushrod starts to bind, +1/2 turn, tighten counter hex bolt, turn lock nut and hex bolt at the same time to tighten approx. 1/16, then turn engine 1/4, next cylinder, do it 8 times.
That has worked for me for years, but, I must admit, produced the less than perfect idle on my Pantera. Is there a better way? Tonight I also tried the Chevy SB way, covers off, idle, turn loose until tick tick, tighten 1/2 turn. Didn't give me a better idle.

I'm confused. And I want my perfect idle back! Or I'm buying a Porsche!

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I think that the rocker arm nuts are unrelated to the idle vacuum issue.

IF the idle rpm is the same for all vacuum readings whether it is high or low than it is the idle characteristics of the camshaft profile.

IF the vacuum is rising at the engine is idling at a higher rpm, then again it is the camshaft profile.

My engine will fast idle cold at 1700 rpm. Vacuum at that point is lousy, 12 to 15 rpm.

As the engine starts to warm, the choke begins to open and the engine rpm starts to drop in about 200 rpm increments.

As it does this the vacuum rises to a high point of about 17 at about 1200 rpm.

The engine finally will idle down to about 700 rpm and at that point the vacuum has droped back down to about 12.

First of all with this camshaft 700 rpm is really low to get it to.

It could easily be idle up, 800, 900 rpm. At those rpms the vacuum will rise as well. Probably to no higher that about 15 though.

Not knowing what your camshaft profile is, I suspect that these variations are caused by it at idle.

In my experience what you are describing is not out of character with a real high performance cam being used on the street.

I think that's one of the compromises that one needs to live with for them.

Incidentally on the subject of the Porsche. I just test drove a standard Caymen.

You have to hear the idle on this thing. It has a real rumpity rump idle for a 6 cylinder.

It had the PK transmission with the paddle shifters on the column.

In order to generate 275hp at 7,600 rpm, there were some compromises made. The idle is something to thing about though. I suppose Porsche wants to impress the gearheads?
Mikael

I think the binding rocker arms were somehow creating a situation where the durations of the valve events were shortened; and it had the same effect as installing a shorter duration camshaft.

If you want better idle performance you need to install a different cam, one having less overlap and one in which the intake valve closes soon enough to avoid low rpm reversion.

It would be a good idea to check the straightness of the push rods too if you haven't already done so.
quote:
I think the binding rocker arms were somehow creating a situation where the durations of the valve events were shortened; and it had the same effect as installing a shorter duration camshaft.

George, sounds right, but how that's possible without breaking the laws of physics is beyond meConfused

Any views on how to adjust the rockers? Googling some say 1/4 turn, some 1/2, some 1/2 to 5/8.
quote:
Any views on how to adjust the rockers? Googling some say 1/4 turn, some 1/2, some 1/2 to 5/8.


Some even recommend one full turn. I always use 1/2 turn.

Regarding your rough idle could it be carb related? I know you are the auther of Tuning made Easy :-), but it sounds a Little like that.

I know this may be basics, but I've had a similar condition with my "rough cam motor" for two seasons. Switched to a single plane and a Holly ultra mech secondary this season, and had rough 1000-1100 idle as I've always had. Realized that by opening the secondary throttleblades a Little using the underside idle screw , I could close the primary throttle blades a similar amount exposing less of the transfer slots in the primary bores. Boy, what a transformation - engine carmed Down a lot and now idles happily and smoothly at 800 rpm.

Just saying
quote:

Originally posted by No Quarter:

George, sounds right, but how that's possible without breaking the laws of physics is beyond meConfused


Its possible because hydraulic tappets collapse.

quote:

Originally posted by No Quarter:

Any views on how to adjust the rockers? Googling some say 1/4 turn, some 1/2, some 1/2 to 5/8.



From sticky #3

One rule of thumb for adjusting hydraulic tappets is to compress the plunger 1/2 of the plunger’s available travel; however it is important to measure the travel of the plunger if that’s your plan. The plunger of a modern hydraulic tappet does not compress as much as the plungers did decades ago. The plunger travel of a Crane roller tappet is only 0.062”. The plunger travel of a 1995 Johnson HT900 tappet I have on hand is 0.125”, whereas the plunger travel of a 1970s vintage HT900 is tappet is 0.187”. I am told the plunger travel of a typical modern hydraulic tappet is in the range of 0.060” to 0.080”. Nowadays the recommended range of hydraulic tappet adjustment when using stud mounted rocker arms is 1/8 to 1/2 turn of the adjusting nut beyond zero lash when the engine is hot (adjustable rocker arms are usually mounted on studs with 3/8-24 or 7/16-20 threads). Decades ago the spec for adjusting small block Chevy tappets was one full turn beyond zero lash, which was supposed to set the tappet plunger in the middle of its travel! This means the plunger in Chevy’s tappet had 0.145” of travel.

The amount to adjust a stud mounted rocker arm beyond zero lash – engine hot

1/8 turn = high performance motors with adjustable valve train
1/4 turn = high performance motors with non-adjustable valve train
3/8 turn = sets many modern tappets at half collapsed
1/2 turn = maximum adjustment, do not exceed 1/2 turn

The relationship between stud mounted rocker arm adjustment and tappet plunger compression

Turns on Adjusting Nut | Adj. Nut Movement | Actual Compression of the Tappet Plunger
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1/8 turn ______________ 0.005” to 0.006” ______________ 0.009” to 0.010”
1/4 turn ______________ 0.010” to 0.012” ______________ 0.017” to 0.021”
3/8 turn ______________ 0.015” to 0.019” ______________ 0.026” to 0.033”
1/2 turn ______________ 0.020” to 0.025” ______________ 0.035” to 0.044”


Smiler
Finally had time and no sleeping neighbours+fresh Royal Purple. Did the 1/8th, a lot less than I usually do, had a tick, tightened another 1/8, total 1/4 from loose push rod. And btw checked all pushrods for straightness, no issues. Started and adjusted the idle. I'm back to the old days, need 1000 rpm idle excl A/C, and can with a nice 4 corner adjustment show 12 vacuum. Had worse. And of course nowhere near the 20 I had earlier. Maybe somebody should invent a valvetrain that works like mine did this spring, same performance I think, and great idle, without the binding and grinding of course.

Then put on the fabricated alu valvecovers that I bought last autumn, and they do sound ever so slightly more "metallic", but from the inside of the car, you'll hear no difference.
Sounds about right with a long duration cam. I think GP was closest to the answer with the lock nuts shortening the duration of the cam?

The only problem with 12in at idle is that the Pantera brake booster wants more.

I'm still playing with this but your set up is simpler. I have the Webers involved with a big cam and am trying to plumb in a PCV valve.

12in looks like the best I can do with it and is going to necessitate a vacuum pump.

I need to find a PCV valve that completely closes at idle. So far, no good.

If I disconnect the PCV I can get 14-15in-mg at idle and idle at 800rpm.

Not easy at all balancing all of these systems for the best combination. Webers were never intended to be anything but a racing set up and a race engine didn't need to power the brakes or a pcv system.

I may have to concede and go to a header scavenging system to vent the crankcase but I don't like sucking oil out of the valve covers and into the headers.

These engines do need to have the crankcase power vented in some way. You will develop phantom oil leaks without it.

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