I am sure glad it wasn't your building. Don't much care for fires!
Your telling me ... just what I need now in a shitty economy is a major loss.
R
R
Does your place smell like smoke now?
Good discussion guys...
On the Aluminum uprights I seem to recall there were some issues raised previously with Hall units, outer bearing race spinning in the hub or something of the like. There was a guy at POCA Fun Rally 2 years ago supposedly coming up with a new hub system to include CV axles, I hear a bit of chatter infrequently on the e-mail list but I think its still in the wings.
Ron as you know I played around with the adjustable Mustang control arms from SPC. I dropped it for now, but SPC sell all the components separately. The challenge is finding ball joints wit the correct taper. First I came to the conclusion that using a Pantera rear ball joint may be the way to go with the bolt in SPC control arm and a fabbed mounting.
For now I have done the 'Johnny Woods' mod to the existing front upper a-arms to add caster, easy to do and you don't really need more than caster/camber change ability. On the rear I have had some GT5 style adjustable uppers made. For serious track I'd likely go to a full heim jointed system if anything, but in terms of doing it for the weight savings to be gained its probably minimal for the effort.
Instead of moving the shock mounts why not move to a shorter shock? For the QA1's the usual Pantera one is the DR5855B (17" extended & 11.6" collapsed), but you can go shorter to the DR4855B (14" extended & 10.1" collapsed), which would allow you to sit lower.
Julian
On the Aluminum uprights I seem to recall there were some issues raised previously with Hall units, outer bearing race spinning in the hub or something of the like. There was a guy at POCA Fun Rally 2 years ago supposedly coming up with a new hub system to include CV axles, I hear a bit of chatter infrequently on the e-mail list but I think its still in the wings.
Ron as you know I played around with the adjustable Mustang control arms from SPC. I dropped it for now, but SPC sell all the components separately. The challenge is finding ball joints wit the correct taper. First I came to the conclusion that using a Pantera rear ball joint may be the way to go with the bolt in SPC control arm and a fabbed mounting.
For now I have done the 'Johnny Woods' mod to the existing front upper a-arms to add caster, easy to do and you don't really need more than caster/camber change ability. On the rear I have had some GT5 style adjustable uppers made. For serious track I'd likely go to a full heim jointed system if anything, but in terms of doing it for the weight savings to be gained its probably minimal for the effort.
Instead of moving the shock mounts why not move to a shorter shock? For the QA1's the usual Pantera one is the DR5855B (17" extended & 11.6" collapsed), but you can go shorter to the DR4855B (14" extended & 10.1" collapsed), which would allow you to sit lower.
Julian
Gary turns out there was a leak in cplg in the dry spr systems and set off the alarm .thanks god.
Julian I have a set of KONI's from Quella and at the ride hieght I want they will be mid travel ... but I;m worried once I lighten up the car it will sit high..then I will have to uncrew the adjuster and then it will be enar the bottom of the travel .. an extra postion add now would give me options ..isntead of welding after the car and compartment is painted ..and I love options.
R
Julian I have a set of KONI's from Quella and at the ride hieght I want they will be mid travel ... but I;m worried once I lighten up the car it will sit high..then I will have to uncrew the adjuster and then it will be enar the bottom of the travel .. an extra postion add now would give me options ..isntead of welding after the car and compartment is painted ..and I love options.
R
Could you also lower the lower a-arm attach point?
from what I read and research other set ups ..the lower A arms ..level is perfect ..the uppers should have a slight angle down towards the frame .. contrary to my previous thoughts and making them level .. they say it reacts best bumps and cornering ... but TOO MUCH of an angle down could also create too much camber .. I guess that why in drag racing we used to have mutiple positions to change the suspension points.
Ron
Ron
If one were making new uprights there might be a slight advantage to mounting the calipers as low as possible for a lower center of gravity.
Mark
Mark