No Clutch

Chip, metal line from the clutch master to the rear of the engine and then a small plastic line to the slave. Many replace the plastic line with a non plastic line with stainless steel outer covering which is flexible and sold by most of the Pantera vendors

There are only three things that could have happened. 1) the master cylinder failed 2)one of the lines failed 3)the slave cylinder failed.

Somewhere there is a puddle of fluid.

It's more likely that it is one of the cylinders rather than one one the lines. The steel hard lines do rust through occasionally.

Winner (loser) is... Slave cylinder. Bubbling paint on bell housing made it easy to spot.

Who sells the best replacement?

There's only one part. There is no good, better, best.

Any of the Pantera vendors have them.

quote:

Originally posted by Chip:
Winner (loser) is... Slave cylinder. Bubbling paint on bell housing made it easy to spot.

Who sells the best replacement?

The slave x-refs to a '72 Alfa Romeo Spider.
$45
http://www.international-auto....posid=881544&noapp=1

Why is it better?

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
Why is it better?

It is the OEM unit. It is equal to original. One of the catalog pieces that the designers used. Just like steering column is Ford Capri, or the taillights are Maserati Bora/ Merak.

Pantera East sells a VERY nice Stainless Steel " long throw" slave cylinder.


Ron

quote:

Originally posted by r mccall:
Pantera East sells a VERY nice Stainless Steel " long throw" slave cylinder.


Ron

I haven't been able to find him in about three years. Mario just disappeared.

As far as I know, the original stock unit is rebuildable but you have to find the parts since I've never seen them assembled in a kit.

The polished stainless is the nice way to go as long as you don't change the size of the the piston bore otherwise you change the effort required on the clutch pedal.

I don't know what he did with that but he must have found the rebuild parts in order to make the stainless units out of stainless billet tubes.


I had my original chromed and the original o-rings still seem ok. They can be sleeved also like the master brake cylinders are now done on irreplaceable originals of other makes.

$45 is a bargain though if it is the same unit and if it is you probably just found the source of them the other vendors get them from?

Just talked to Marino. Alive and well and still selling slave cylinders.

Does anyone know what type of clutch assembly that Wilkinson sells? Marino was asking what type of clutch was in there to determine if I needed a long throw or not.

I just looked in my paperwork that it was purchased at Wilkinson, but there is no description on their website to answer what type

Do you have his contact information? His web page was long ago shut off.

Chip, I suggest using a long throw clutch slave regardless of what clutch is in there. It will give slightly more disengagement distance at the flywheel than stock, and being stainless, it will not rust like the soft iron stockers. It is also rebuildable if something happens to the fragile rubber seal. It's my understanding that Marino had those slaves CAST UP to order, using some domestic guts. It's been 10 or so years and I suspect he's barely recouped his minimum order cost. All the vendors sell Marino's slave cylinders.

You can check clutch disengagement distance with a flat-blade feeler gauge stuck down thru the access window in your bellhousing between flywheel and disc (engine OFF!) A brand new Pantera with new hydraulics and new linkage will allow about 0.040" of disengagement distance (which divides by 2 for each surface of the clutch disc). And that's with the clutch pedal buried in the floor mat, which no one ever does when shifting. Worn systems or leaky ones will be down to 0.015" or so, causing drag and high wear in the ZF synchro system. A long-throw slave will pick up the distance to as high as 0.050"

Its also a good idea to consider ordering a new clutch MASTER cylinder right now: the parts all wear out as a system so fixing leaks and wear at one end often overpressurizes the other. Replace the clutch slave and expect to be fidding with a leaking clutch master cylinder before Christmas.... Good luck.

Thanks Jack....Sage advice as always

Marino can be found via his MAP cycle web site. I think he stopped supporting the pantera web site some time ago, although still sells parts.
Search MAP cycle enterprises.

CNC aluminum unit from Pantera Performance Center has served me well for over 15 years.

quote:

Originally posted by Chip:
Thanks Jack....Sage advice as always

Hi Chip,

Hey, just a thought......found an old PI Tech Article (Winter, 1977), a VW Transporter Front Wheel Cylinder rebuild kit (1970 or prior) will work on the slave cylinder. RockAuto has a BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0717331 kit for $2.73, or a RAYBESTOS Part # WK362 professional grade for $5.31. If your old slave can be rebuilt, keep it as a back-up.

Pete C. (6626)

What is the physical difference between the standard travel slave and the long travel?

Is it just the length of the push rod?

If you rebuild a standard one, can it be changed to a long throw?

I was under the impression a "long throw" has a slightly(?) smaller inner diameter, giving more travel, and increasing pedal effort slightly(?).

Here's an old Post...

quote:

fordgt

posted October 19, 2001 05:53 AM

I replaced my standard throw with a long throw recently. The inside diameter of the standard throw is 0.991 inches and the long throw measures 0.866 inches.

FWIW, home-repair of a stock clutch slave is usually wasted effort. True, there are repair kits made for several other cars that can be adapted to sort-of-fit the Pantera. But the relief is often short-lived. First, the design is extremely simple with one seal which doesn't have much tolerance. So when you home-hone the corrosion pits out, the resulting bore is often bell-mouthed or expanded enough that the adapted seal in a rebuilt cylinder may instantly leak under pressure. I equate this with fine-tuning OEM ignition points: even when done perfectly, you know it won't last. Next, the cast iron used by the factory in our slave cylinders seems particularly soft and corrosion-prone. Some guys have found rust inside the bore of brand new cylinders still in a factory box.
The pitting and leaks normally happen due to NOT changing clutch (and brake!) hydraulic fluid yearly- maybe biannually in coastal areas. And its been found that using silicone fluid does not cure the collection of water inside the cylinders, either. Unless the hydraulic fluid is changed regularly, brand-new pits will develop rapidly in new-stock or repaired-stock ass'ys. Corrosion-resistant stainless steel or hard-anodized aluminum master & slave sets cheaply compensate for our poor maintenence habits- mine included.

They can be sleeved with stainless. Why not? Why will a new cast iron unit last longer than a rebuilt one?


Precision Proformance (Byers) has them too.

http://www.precisionproformance.com/bc3001.php

$159.