not happy with coolant system :(

@davidnunn posted:..

Why are you using 160° fan switches? With a 180° thermostat, 185° or 190° would be more appropriate. It’s useless having your fans turn on before coolant is even circulating through the radiator or at highway speeds. Can your Sniper EFI system control the fans? If so, that might be better.
Did you confirm that your fans are blowing through the rad?
At 190° or 200° your system isn’t close to overheating but you have some issues you need to deal with before your cooling system is correct and reliable.

my "reason" for 160.  - the fan switch is to regulate the temparture of coolant leaving the radiator.   I expected a 20f drop across radiator with 180 leaving thermostat.

the Sniper would use the temparture sender at the thermostat.   that location is not regulated by fan operations.

I can't get by with Your philosiphy and Commander Montgomery Scot's - "The more they overthink the plumbing, the easier it is to stop up the drain."  In my former Life, I made my living by trouble shooting overly complicated controled systems, just trying to relive those glory days

I am NOW begining to realize normal should be around 200 (at the block sender).   corrected those other problems should let me get there

@bosswrench posted:

When I was evaluating cooling fans and shrouds, I found that how the fans are wired makes a large difference. If you plug any fans into the stock wiring, they run.... at some rpm. If you direct-wire them to the battery, with only a relay or on/off switch so they get a full 13.8VDC, ..

I am NOT getting full voltage because of undersized alternator.   when fans come on voltage drops from ~14 to 12.1 .   My directions to the shop was more and seperate runs of copper to relays and then to fans.

When I upgraded my condensor fans, I had to upgrade the alternator too. I went with 100 amp.   Believe it or not wires can wear out, As the current runs through it, the electrons eventually build resistance. I had a Corvette with a hot start problem, and when I replaced the wire to the solonoid I noticed it was stiff and actually brittle.  I realize we are talking about radiator fans, but same difference.  BTW< I also pull air in from the rear so as not to suck engine heat and push out through condensor.

Don’t all Pantera’s pull air through the condenser?

@jfb05177 posted:

my "reason" for 160.  - the fan switch is to regulate the temparture of coolant leaving the radiator.   I expected a 20f drop across radiator with 180 leaving thermostat.

the Sniper would use the temparture sender at the thermostat.   that location is not regulated by fan operations.

I can't get by with Your philosiphy and Commander Montgomery Scot's - "The more they overthink the plumbing, the easier it is to stop up the drain."  In my former Life, I made my living by trouble shooting overly complicated controled systems, just trying to relive those glory days

I am NOW begining to realize normal should be around 200 (at the block sender).   corrected those other problems should let me get there

But with a 160° fan switch, your fans would always be “on”. Even if your fans could lower the temp to 160°, you wouldn’t want them to. Ideally, you want your coolant temp to rise to normal operating temperature and stay there. If you replaced your 160° fan switch with a 185° switch, I believe you’d see no change in your operating temperature but your fans would cycle on and off. Most importantly, they’d switch off at speed, when they aren’t needed. The nice thing about having your Sniper ECU control your fans is, you can experiment easily with different trigger points.

Don't all Pantera pull air through the condenser?

No. Thats a stock 'pusher' fan setup. Many have upgraded to sucker fans that pull air thru.

I think David was talking about the air conditioning condenser in the back…

With my rear condensor fans, I tried it both ways and I get colder a/c sucking the cooler air from outside and blowing it into the engine bay.