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This looks like my Armando 10qt but Kevko also makes the same pan it's rated at 9 qts with the same design. I've never filled my oil pand more than 9.5 qts as I have not calibrated my dipstick and I'm afraid of overfilling it. If I go with the Kevko rating, I've overfilled it already. 
There's already a thread on this forum on calibrating your dipstick with a 10qt pan. I should probably re-read it again when my lokar disptick comes in.
Part # F602-400M
Ford Pantera Pan
9 quart capacity pan with gates, scraper, diverters and a windage tray.
Pan Part # Pickup Part#
F602-400M Pantera
$295.00 $35.00
There's already a thread on this forum on calibrating your dipstick with a 10qt pan. I should probably re-read it again when my lokar disptick comes in.
Part # F602-400M
Ford Pantera Pan
9 quart capacity pan with gates, scraper, diverters and a windage tray.
Pan Part # Pickup Part#
F602-400M Pantera
$295.00 $35.00
Sorry, I took a closer look at yours and the back end where the relief is for the xmember, looks looks stock. Hall used to sell one like it which was essentially a stock pan that was cut and an extended sheetmetal welded up. I don't remember how many quarts it was rated for though.
quote:Originally posted by LIV1S:
Sorry, I took a closer look at yours and the back end where the relief is for the xmember, looks looks stock. Hall used to sell one like it which was essentially a stock pan that was cut and an extended sheetmetal welded up. I don't remember how many quarts it was rated for though.
Yes the car was built mainly by Hall, so it may be his oil pan. I suppose I could meaure the depth, width & length and see what it may come close to that may be on the market, but cant seem to find Armando 10qt measurements or Kevko 9 qt measurements on the web.
Ultimately, it is irrelevant what the pan capacity is. You are going to fill it according to the dipstick, assuming your stick is the correct dimension (38" from the hilt to the tip). Maybe double check it against another car.
Filling to the dipstick full mark, assures that the pickup won't ventilate. It is the dimensional relationship of the stick to the bottom of the pickup that is important, regardless of pan capacity.
Filling to the dipstick full mark, assures that the pickup won't ventilate. It is the dimensional relationship of the stick to the bottom of the pickup that is important, regardless of pan capacity.
quote:Originally posted by Dave2811:
Ultimately, it is irrelevant what the pan capacity is. You are going to fill it according to the dipstick, assuming your stick is the correct dimension (38" from the hilt to the tip). Maybe double check it against another car.
Filling to the dipstick full mark, assures that the pickup won't ventilate. It is the dimensional relationship of the stick to the bottom of the pickup that is important, regardless of pan capacity.
Yeah, but I assume everything is modified, same as my red 5S with the 417 Fontana. Dip stick tube could have been modified as well, who the heck knows. I did notice on my red car that it has the same oil pan, and I see past receipts where they did 10qt, so I can probably assume these are 10qt (if they knew what they were doing).
quote:Originally posted by DOES 200:quote:Originally posted by Dave2811:
Ultimately, it is irrelevant what the pan capacity is. You are going to fill it according to the dipstick, assuming your stick is the correct dimension (38" from the hilt to the tip). Maybe double check it against another car.
Filling to the dipstick full mark, assures that the pickup won't ventilate. It is the dimensional relationship of the stick to the bottom of the pickup that is important, regardless of pan capacity.
Yeah, but I assume everything is modified, same as my red 5S with the 417 Fontana. Dip stick tube could have been modified as well, who the heck knows. I did notice on my red car that it has the same oil pan, and I see past receipts where they did 10qt, so I can probably assume these are 10qt (if they knew what they were doing).
Engine builders do a lot of things, but modifying the dipstick and tube, I believe, would be on bottom of the list. The end that stabs into the block has a bead on it, so that is likely untouched. The top part, where the dipstick enters, should be about 3 3/8" from the welded bracket to the end, so if you have that, and 38" on the stick, you should be stock and can trust the level.
You fill it according to the calibrated dip stick. Whatever the system takes is it. My system takes about 12 qts. with the oil cooler , aviad pan, remote duel cartridge filters and the -10 hose to plumb it all but it ain't full till the fat lady sings...and it says full on the dip stick. 
quote:Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
You fill it according to the calibrated dip stick. Whatever the system takes is it. My system takes about 12 qts. with the oil cooler , aviad pan, remote duel cartridge filters and the -10 hose to plumb it all but it ain't full till the fat lady sings...and it says full on the dip stick.
Thats what my intent was, as I believe this is a 10qt oil pan as it looks huge. I was going to put in 9qt and mark it on the stick. I figure maybe I have a short stick or something (that's what she said
). I put in 8&1/2 and I am way beyond the fill line on the stick.
My Aviad takes in the 9-1/2 to 10 qts to fill it according to the stock stick. The additional for me is in the rest of the system.
You do need to run it, then shut off and re-read the stick. If in doubt get a whole new dipstick set up from Wilkinson but remember to do the tube too.
As far as my dipstick being too short, well I'd have to refer you to my sluts. They have been talking amongst themselves lately and want me to take these "vitamins". Just don't tell the wife. She won't be able to stop laughing.
You do need to run it, then shut off and re-read the stick. If in doubt get a whole new dipstick set up from Wilkinson but remember to do the tube too.
As far as my dipstick being too short, well I'd have to refer you to my sluts. They have been talking amongst themselves lately and want me to take these "vitamins". Just don't tell the wife. She won't be able to stop laughing.
Here's the definitive method to determine your oil pan capacity, from John Schwarz at Aviad:
Source: http://www.realbig.com/piperma...November/091125.html
Source: http://www.realbig.com/piperma...November/091125.html
quote:To settle it for all of you that have bought an Armando pan; when AVIAID designed that pan the static oil capacity of the pan was set at 9 quarts. That fills the pan to the underside of the hard tray that is bolted in on top of the pickup box assembly in the pan. Our instructions for actual capacity determination are to fill an empty pan, installed on the engine in a car sitting on flat ground, with 8qts. of oil. Mark your dipstick. Add one additional quart, and mark the stick again. This is full. The first mark is the low mark. This should be only about 3/8" given the sump area of the pan.
Start the engine, letting oil circulate and fill the engine, filter and any cooler or lines that may be part of the system. Shut the engine off, and add back to the top mark. This will be system capacity.
Depending on engine and operating conditions the ideal level can vary. Ideal oil level is a point between fluctuating oil pressure and excess carry over of oil out of the engine venting system. If the engine tends to trap oil up in the engine, it will like an extra 1/2 quart. If the engine returns oil well, it might like 1/2 quart low. Experience will tell.
John Schwarz
AVIAID Oil Systems
10041 Canoga Avenue
Chatsworth CA 91311-3004
00 1 818 998 8991 phone
00 1 818 998 8993 fax
aviaid at aol.com email
aviaid.com web
Thanks for the info Garth. Now I won't have to go try search for it when it comes time to calibrate my new dipstick.
For DOES200, here's a picture of the current Hall unit. It states the capacity as 10qts.
For DOES200, here's a picture of the current Hall unit. It states the capacity as 10qts.
Thanks guys! I figured it was a 10qt, but you never know about these modified cars, as the specs on the car didn't indicate pan size. I was mainly thinking the entry point of the stick into the pan may be at a different level than a stock pan, or the tube was different or the stick different length, or pan size less than 10qt. I will add another quart and mark it (which would be 9&1/2). Actually I don't need to mark it, as at that level the oil goes onto the ribbed part of the stick. From the info it looks like Hall just fabricated a 10qt pan from a stock pan, so entry level of the stick into the pan would be the same. Now I need to check on getting a different tube and/or stick because for some reason it gets kind of rusty at the top of the inner tube/stick. When I get under the lift I will see if there is some way of getting at the tube connection to the pan.
quote:Originally posted by DOES 200:
... When I get under the lift I will see if there is some way of getting at the tube connection to the pan.
It is most easily accessed from inside the front engine cover. The tube stabs into the block just behind the alternator. It doesn't touch the pan at all.
quote:Originally posted by Dave2811:
It is most easily accessed from inside the front engine cover. The tube stabs into the block just behind the alternator. It doesn't touch the pan at all.
Ugh, I will need to see how easy or not that bulkhead is to remove from my interior set up. Doesn't sound like fun in this stinkin hot and humid weather in the garage. If the stick goes into the block, I wonder if it is the same on a Fontana block. What the heck rusts anyway, the top of the tube or the stick or both?
quote:Originally posted by DOES 200:quote:Originally posted by Dave2811:
It is most easily accessed from inside the front engine cover. The tube stabs into the block just behind the alternator. It doesn't touch the pan at all.
Ugh, I will need to see how easy or not that bulkhead is to remove from my interior set up. Doesn't sound like fun in this stinkin hot and humid weather in the garage. If the stick goes into the block, I wonder if it is the same on a Fontana block. What the heck rusts anyway, the top of the tube or the stick or both?
Don't know about the Fontana block, but the Cleveland block's setup is as below. I hate to speculate on your rust, but mild steel will rust in the presence of water or corrosive gasses. Both can be present with a leaky head gasket.... but you don't have that .... hopefully.
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Thanks for showing me the hole (thats what he said). The small surface rust is just at the top of the tube for some odd reason, so I just wipe it off every few months.