right side cut…
Cut part of the lightning hole to get around the ductwork !
connecting the lines left side to bottom!
The red line is the new route. I’m going to connect to the side bracket cut out
drilled at tight radius and to reset the saw
Cleaned up,
I am, and I'm sure every one else is as well. Thanks for taking the time to document the process. I'm anxious to see how it comes out. As I posted earlier, I opted for the SACC unit, which I'm hoping is a bit easier installation and works about as well. I read that the feel (?) was "totally different" but never quite established if different is better, worse, or just different.
Test fitting is coming next probably with adjustments necessary I guess..
Right now, I have to lay down horizontally because I’m bent out of shape
@Ed Harbur
I was hoping to find documentation like what I’m doing right now about the procedure… It would’ve made the decision easier or maybe harder…
Once everything is done, I’m gonna let somebody with experience with Pantera drive it to assess how the brakes and Powersteering and all the other stuff i did to it came out!
I made a little bit of metal dust! Make sure you put some old bed sheets down…
It’s going to be very hard to get this stuff out of the carpet!
I think doing this origami was very helpful to visualize what I’m doing…
@panteradoug posted:I must admit that even though there was a noticeable stress level felt, it was a fun and enjoyable experience. I hope you are enjoying it too?
it was a rush… i’m just quadruple checking everything… And hope for the best🤔🤪
@Ed Harbur - I bought a SACC Power Steering Unit and it was pretty easy to do the install. You had to do a little cutting and drill a couple of holes. I also made a spacer for the bracket to take up some space. I can take pictures of the final install if you need some more pictures. I just followed Scott's instructions and everything went well. Very sturdy install. Larry
your bolt modification going to be next!
You had a great idea! stupid the way the manufacturer did it
being able to mount it without disassembling and your mod provides better more ridged structure!
the left mounting bolt trapped by bracket in the back is a nuisance! You have to disassemble the rear bracket to bolt it to the dash structure…
@ davidnunn did a modification to his setup using a long bolt reaching through both mounting holes, nut on the electric motor side and made a spacer so It can be proper torqued down!
the solution was adopted by Gerry in his manual!
Bolted it in with front 2 bolts… seems to clear, can jiggling & wiggle… after I take it off I’m going to look for witnesses mark on the tape….
Note how high the electric motor is tugged up under the dash!!
use the piece of cardboard and run it through the gap… perfect!
Took it out… No interference,! I got lucky no reworking necessary!
Now I have to figure out the rear, mounting holes
The rear mount really blows!! Can’t see, very tight space, head on the brake pedal… I stopped and going to think for a while now….
I have questions… Bring your best answers if you could please!
The steering wheel shaft is about one finger thickness, away from the dashboard!
That’s not enough to have the steering cover on it it takes at least two maybe 2 1/2 finger thickness between center of the steering shaft and the lower part of the dashboard. The mounting surface of the two ears welded to the steering shaft I absolutely flush with the bottom of the dashboard structure… So there is no angle change going on. It’s just flat right on it
nothing is twisted. No pressure on anything that’s just the way he wants to sit right now… The cutouts I made today have about between one and 2 mm clearance to the power steering box… I have not drilled the two holes for the rear bracket!
I think, a small movement on either of those attachment points would make a usable difference in the spacing. I’m looking in the front.
how does all this angle change affect the steering shaft after it…?? ?The hollow “D” shaft coming through really does not have any movement in it. Am I going to stick everything together and see what spacers do I have to put in the front…
or enlarge the cutout in the back and make pie shaped spacers for the front.. which still doesn’t mean the steering shaft is gonna end up where needs to be… It only has one joint! I only can change the angle after that joint (pivoting at this joint)!
any input?
(I think just stick everything together loosely and see where it ends up - The good old rolling the dice)
There is a difference in the clearances you ask about between the types of dash the car has, i.e., the dual pod or the single pod. In fact, the version of the single pod that the European market cars is a little different then the plastic version used in the '74 USA cars. The Euro version is a pretty thick fiberglass.
The front mounting bracket in this case (EPS installation) really needs to be made with slots (about 1" long) rather then single round holes, so that there is some adjustment, in and out (front to back).
It also needs to be made so that the wheel mounts as high as can be with no shims and able to be shimmed down to adjust the angle to your liking with bolts long enough to accomplish the adjustment. To me that is obvious and an indication that sufficient experimentation was put into the design process.
The left rear mounting bolt is the toughest one to get in, no question. In my case I had to use a flanged hex head bolt where I used Allen socket bolts in the other three spots.
That is actually a back and forth process where it is necessary to modify the new bracket in my view. My mounting bracket started as a square plate with four holes. Then evolved into slots for adjustment front to back.
This is probably the toughest part of the fit to the car. The trimming of the sheet metal is very minor in comparison.
I actually went through that (adjusting the closeness to the dash) before the EPS developed (or ever existed yet) in that I was going to a Momo steering wheel and the adapter gave more room and I wanted the wheel closer to the dashboard so I had remade the mounting brackets with slots.
This actually showed in the angle of the directional signal rod in that it needed to be bent more for clearance to the dash when in the "high beams on position".
In fact, at one point I toyed with the idea of the telescoping column like the Corvettes have, but since I am the only one who drives the car I just set the location to where I felt most comfortable. In my case, that was as tight as I could get it to the dash board...but my thought is that the new column mounting bracket needs slots and that what you have is just plain an oversight.
Larry- Thanks for the info and pics. Scott actually shipped my unit yesterday - MONTHS earlier than predicted, but unfortunately right before I'm getting my back overhauled so that I can actually get in and out of, and work on the car again. 6 weeks with no heavy lifting. Oh well! I will definitely take you up on your offer of a little coaching when the time comes, though.
@Ed Harbur posted:Larry- Thanks for the info and pics. Scott actually shipped my unit yesterday - MONTHS earlier than predicted, but unfortunately right before I'm getting my back overhauled so that I can actually get in and out of, and work on the car again. 6 weeks with no heavy lifting. Oh well! I will definitely take you up on your offer of a little coaching when the time comes, though.
I found that laying across the seats from the passenger side, with the door open, feet sticking out the door, leaning up against the shift lever, was the easiest position to work from.
Here, the steering wheel quick disconnect really helps because the steering wheel is not in the car at that point.
It is possible though, that I am permanently deformed as a result of working in that position?
Well, if it is deformed, I've got a carefully selected doc for you.
@Ed Harbur posted:Well, if it is deformed, I've got a carefully selected doc for you.
Is she pretty?
I'm kind of planning to be face down and heavily sedated at the time of the festivities, so not a factor in my case!
yea, they know all of the pressure points anyway?
