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Many years ago we moved peddle assemblies forward by modifying the original peddle box. The modification was completed by sectioning the original peddle box welding in a 1.5" section of material. The work was difficult and permanently modified the car. After many requests, the bolt on peddle spacer kits are ready.

This modification moves the peddle assembly forward 1.5" giving you additional leg room. The kit includes the spacer, all of the hardware and detailed instructions with pictures. This kit allows the installer to pre-mount the clutch master cylinder with or without the peddle reduction kit so the nasty on you back up-side-down work installing the pins, tightening the bolts and putting on pin snap rings and cotter keys is eliminated.

The price will be 249.50. The introductory price is 210.00. I have 6 units ready to ship.

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Kirk,

Another great product, I can atteste that spacer makes a big difference for tall guys. I have a billet aluminum one, fabricated in two halves. It was only 3/4" but made a huge difference.

Your spacer doesn't appear to be offset from original, thus I would caution that a 1.5" spacer with some aftermarket brake master cylinders or boosters will push the assembly forward far enough to interfere with the inner fender and/or the hood closure.

It is great to see the continued development of new products!

Julian
Last edited by joules
Julian,

I did check several different combinations using a crashed cut open hood. (sorry for the picture position--(I made the change on my computer but it will not transfer--Ideas?) I do have a plan B option for the stock MC.

The total net price shipped priority mail is 224.00

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I have not had hood clearance issues except with the fill cap on the stock master cylinder just touches our lid inserts. (pictured) I have always modified the original mount area in the past but decided to make a replacement bolt in spacer that matches the original sheet metal opening and is intended to be covers with the same front trunk material.

I also wanted to be able to complete the install with the clutch master cylinder side assembled with or without the reduction kit do to the difficulty of installing the pins and clips inside the cabin laying on your back upside down with little room to move your hands. That is, in my opinion even when I was 18, the worst job on the car.

Your billet unit looks good.

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I am installing the two piece spacer shown above. The gas pedal seems to have a much shorter swing as it will hit the bulkhead. Also bolting the lower leg of the brake stop bracket seems challenging at best. If anybody could share some interior pictures of the pedal assembly installed in a spaced forward position that would help me a great deal!
Thanks,
John
John,

Use the bulkhead as the peddle stop by adjusting the throttle cable extension so the carb or throttle body is all the way open at the peddles touching point. You no longer need the factory peddle stop. I will assume the spacer kit came with a cable extension provision or instructions to modify the bracket on the center tunnel. Either way it is not a problem unless your foot pressure is so great it breaks the gas peddle arm. They mostly break from not having any lube over time, seize on the pin and boom, it's over. The factory stop will flex a bit where the bulkhead will not so make sure you do not stomp the throttle to hard.

Here is a picture of my solution to the cable extension needed which keeps the factory cable bracket in the original location on the center tunnel.

Hope this helps.

Kirk

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